conservative business dress WAYWRN: An Experiment

Mr. Pink · Jun 10, 2011

I'm definitely not planning on changing the new suit to slim fitting pants. I don't think that works for me. But these pants are considerably roomier than my other pants from Chan. The waist and seat need to come in as well as the leg. I made a change in the pattern, increasing the rise so the waistband rests at the top of my hipbones. I had a basted fitting but not a forward fitting. I don't know if I wasn't able to judge the fit well at the basted fitting or if the adjustments that should have been made weren't. For comparison, here are pics of a couple of other pairs, still full cut, but with more shape.

Originally Posted by Kaplan

The colour of the 0520 is just great. Is it fully lined and with not too light a colour lining to avoid it showing through the fresco weave?

The jacket is quarter lined. Patrick mentioned that he would use a dark colored canvas that wouldn't show through the cloth.

comrade · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

On behalf of collegiate style, I ask that you:

(a) Turn in your sacks, but after...

(b) Ripping off the top button of your 3/2s in shame.

I say this on behalf of GTH Pants guy (below), the Brooks, Press and Davidson families, and really, all that is holy.

Pink: I think that the pants fall great (as a good bespoke pair with suspenders should), but, uhm, they could be a teensy, tiniest, tad-i-est slimmer to reduce the chance of becoming known as the Big Pants Man of San Diego City.

- B

I am sure that Vox is aware that the guy on the left is one of the Press family members who worked
at the NY store probably through the mid 80s when the company was bought by a Japanese apparel
group. I still have a suit he sold me in my " clothing museum". It is not a 3/2 sack but a two button
side vented model Press briefly sold, probably in the 70s.

Kaplan · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by Mr. Pink

The jacket is quarter lined. Patrick mentioned that he would use a dark colored canvas that wouldn't show through the cloth.

Thank you.

patrickBOOTH · Jun 10, 2011

Mr. Pink, I think one thing you could do if you don't really want a taper to your trousers is to have just a bit of the upper thigh pinched in so that rather than the trousers falling straight down from the end of your butt they show a slight contour before draping down giving your side silhouette a but more shape.

Manton · Jun 10, 2011

Pink, your trousers look to me like brace trousers are supposed to look. Not everyone likes that and I have moved away from it but they strike me as very good for what they are.

Slightly too much break is the worst thing I can say.

mmkn · Jun 10, 2011

^ Agree on the aesthetic and break. Looks like tutee's trou. Break crosses the line from drape to droop.

- M

TheFoo · Jun 10, 2011

Trousers look good. Too much break? No way.

Manton · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Trousers look good. Too much break? No way.

I didn't know you were one of those puddle people.

mmkn · Jun 10, 2011

^ Back looks fine. Slightly droopy in front. Perhaps he can get Chan to slant the break, less in the front but maintain the back Mid-Atlantic solution.

- M

CaymanS · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by alliswell

I've always thought this cat nailed it:

but his physique needs no tailor's magic.

I don't see a lot of win here. Shoulder is suffering from dimple effect and there's no roll to the lapel. Barbera does a good example of showing how to get your roll on...

That said, the Asian dude definitely has the physique where DB could be a win. He just needs to step his game up.

CaymanS · Jun 10, 2011

Trousers cut for braces needn't be so roomy. Bown (http://www.bownsbespoke.com/) has several examples of trousers cut for braces with plenty of break that are not this full in the leg. And Bown is significantly heftier than Mr. Pink. The trousers above are simply too full in the thigh imo. A bit of shape would look a lot cleaner with such a well-fitting jacket.

zalb916 · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by Mr. Pink

Originally Posted by Navi

Yep... Pants like that just look too big, they have no shape at all
Seriously? Look at the curve at the back of his pants. That's more shape than I've seen on the vast majority of pants on this forum, and I think it looks great. Not a look I want for myself, and they could still be trimmer for him. The front could also be tweaked. However, any critique that says these pants don't have any shape is just plain wrong. It may not be shape that you like, but that's entirely different.

TRINI · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by CaymanS

Shoulder is suffering from dimple effect

Look at how he's standing. Why would you expect to see a clean shoulder?

CaymanS · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by TRINI

Look at how he's standing. Why would you expect to see a clean shoulder?

With that sort of (machine) padding, I wouldn't.

alliswell · Jun 10, 2011

Originally Posted by TRINI

Look at how he's standing. Why would you expect to see a clean shoulder?

A good tailor will always ask 'And will sir be carrying his overcoat in the left or right hand?'

Point's well taken about the roll. My thought was more that the details on the coat are better balanced than on o/o's.

conservative business dress WAYWRN: An Experiment

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