Overcoats and others

crazey · May 2, 2011

Guys,

I am trying to get s bespoke overcoat done at some point in the next few months and am doing a bit of research for that. I was wondering if a 15.5 - 16 oz 100% wool flannel would be a good fabric to go for? I was ideally looking to buy a 17 oz Prince of Wales check, but couldn't find anything in that weight online (except for the 16 oz one).

On that note, I was wondering if you know of any places in London which sells fabrics and where there is a good selection of cloth of choose from? Or maybe online? Also, has anyone been to Franco Santoro on Kingly Street for bespoke? Any feedback on him?

Thanks!

Eustace Tilley · May 2, 2011

A 16oz. flannel is way too light for an overcoat. And I wouldn't choose a flannel cloth either.

Get something in the 20oz.-22oz. range. I would recommend a solid navy blue or dark grey instead of a POW.

patrickBOOTH · May 2, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

A 16oz. flannel is way too light for an overcoat. And I wouldn't choose a flannel cloth either.

Get something in the 20oz.-22oz. range. I would recommend a solid navy blue or dark grey instead of a POW.

+1 16oz is a nice winter suit weight, but certainly not an overcoat. Also, stick with a dark solid for a first bespoke overcoat.

crazey · May 2, 2011

Navy/grey seem a bit boring. Why is Pow not a good idea?
I was hoping to go for a chocolate brown POW. Something like this: http://www.overstock.com/Clothing-Sh...3/product.html

Anyone know where to buy 18-20 oz PoW check?

comrade · May 2, 2011

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

A 16oz. flannel is way too light for an overcoat. And I wouldn't choose a flannel cloth either.

Get something in the 20oz.-22oz. range. I would recommend a solid navy blue or dark grey instead of a POW.

I don't know if it's still available but 32 oz worked well when I lived in Chicago.
I had a British Warm from Chipp (I) and an Invertere greatcoat in grey melton.
When it warmed up to 30 F, I wore a wool and cashmere balmacan.

Panzeraxe II · May 2, 2011

Originally Posted by crazey

Anyone know where to buy 18-20 oz PoW check?

I love how you simply disregarded the great advice you've gotten so far.

POW is an awful choice for your bespoke overcoat. And 18oz. is not going to cut it - that's covert coat weight.

GradSchooler · May 2, 2011

22 oz minimum. Unless you're in the bahamas, then by all means 18 oz. And if want to do somethng different for an overcoat, maybe distinguish it with style and not fabric. If it's your first coat you're going to want something versatile. If you really want to go brown PoW might I suggest.... http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...cjkvo1_500.jpg It's the one in the middle.

delavegatailors · May 3, 2011

Dark grey, dark blue or black would be a good choice for your first overcoat. Also, some % of cashmere would be nice.
You don't need a 100% cashmere overcoat, there are quality wool fabrics with 30% cashmere. Regarding the fabric weight, 22 to 28 oz should be enough.

cptjeff · May 3, 2011

Hey, get what you want. If it's your first overcoat in general, absolutely get the solid. But I'm presuming you have overcoats, just not bespoke ones.

And wouldn't the tailor you go to be able to find the fabric for you? As in, isn't that part of their job?

JapanAlex01 · May 3, 2011

Originally Posted by delavegatailors

Dark grey, dark blue or black would be a good choice for your first overcoat. Also, some % of cashmere would be nice. You don't need a 100% cashmere overcoat, there are quality wool fabrics with 30% cashmere. Regarding the fabric weight, 22 to 28 oz should be enough.
+1, I bought a wool-cashmere blend (I think ~10% cashmere?), in very dark blue (almost looks black!), for Â£50! Second hand, of course, but Baker Street! Needs a dry-clean, and need to sew up a hole in the pocket, but you can get great deals on eBay (as a side-note, I know you want bespoke)!

And wouldn't the tailor you go to be able to find the fabric for you? As in, isn't that part of their job?

That's a bingo!

yoshii · May 3, 2011

Agree that a solid navy/grey would be boring, personally i reckon the pow would look nicer.
But you're the one that'll be wearing it, so you may as well get something you want.
No point listening to the advice here when its not what you really like/want in the end (as in don't base your final choice off everything said here)

crazey · May 6, 2011

Thanks for the replies guys.

Grad Scooler: where did you get those pics from? All those overcoats looks pretty good to me.

I do have overcoats (black), not bespoke ones though. The tailor I was thinking of going to was one of the cheaper ones, so fabric choice would be quite limited. Cad and the Dandy was an option as well, but going by their website, I don't think they have a wide range to choose from for overcoats.

Thanks for the help with the weights. I wasn't exactly sure of the weights for overcoats....

Mac · May 6, 2011

This is worth a read: http://www.bownsbespoke.com/george.htm

LaymanX · May 7, 2011

Originally Posted by GradSchooler

22 oz minimum. Unless you're in the bahamas, then by all means 18 oz. And if want to do somethng different for an overcoat, maybe distinguish it with style and not fabric. If it's your first coat you're going to want something versatile.

If you really want to go brown PoW might I suggest....

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...cjkvo1_500.jpg

It's the one in the middle.

This is the second time I've seen this photo posted on SF.. where's it from? Because I'm seriously

about that middle one...

crazey · May 7, 2011

Layman: were you being sarcastic??

Overcoats and others

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