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I'm curious about the origins and history of the various styles of vent in men's coats, viz. center vent (and it's variants) side vents, and or course ventless. I have some impressions of the history, but I'd like to hear any input from those students of the history of clothes and tailors who have more authoritative knowledge on the matter.
It's commonly stated that a center vent is an American style, that it is common as it is less expensive to manufacture in ready to wear, and that it is not very attractive as it has the potential to expose one's backside.
Side vents are reportedly British, and more elegant.
Ventless has a Continental reputation, and among those with short attention spans, a reputation for being dated.
But where did they come from?
As far as I can tell, the center vent has the deepest heritage. It is neither American in origin, or the result of RTW manufacturing calculation, but is rather equestrian. We see it in men's coats dating back at least several hundred years (longer if one wants to include a medieval knights surplice), for the simple reason that men needed to sit a horse. It was seen in day coats, then frock coats, morning coats, and other variations of the tail coat. It is still seen among the dress uniforms of European armed forces, esp. those uniforms that have their origin in the 18th and 19th Centuries. A specific question about those uniforms: the vent appears to be offset from teh center a few centimeters, and overlaps. The top of the seam often has buttons. Does this variation have a specific name? It's doesn't look to be a hook vent.
Ventless seems to have been common with Victorian lounge suits, and lounge coats into the early to mid 20th Century. I see this esp. in older movies, but perhaps that was due to explicit costume choices?
When did the side vent make it's appearance? I generally start to notice it in movies and pictures from about mid 20th Century on.
It's commonly stated that a center vent is an American style, that it is common as it is less expensive to manufacture in ready to wear, and that it is not very attractive as it has the potential to expose one's backside.
Side vents are reportedly British, and more elegant.
Ventless has a Continental reputation, and among those with short attention spans, a reputation for being dated.
But where did they come from?
As far as I can tell, the center vent has the deepest heritage. It is neither American in origin, or the result of RTW manufacturing calculation, but is rather equestrian. We see it in men's coats dating back at least several hundred years (longer if one wants to include a medieval knights surplice), for the simple reason that men needed to sit a horse. It was seen in day coats, then frock coats, morning coats, and other variations of the tail coat. It is still seen among the dress uniforms of European armed forces, esp. those uniforms that have their origin in the 18th and 19th Centuries. A specific question about those uniforms: the vent appears to be offset from teh center a few centimeters, and overlaps. The top of the seam often has buttons. Does this variation have a specific name? It's doesn't look to be a hook vent.
Ventless seems to have been common with Victorian lounge suits, and lounge coats into the early to mid 20th Century. I see this esp. in older movies, but perhaps that was due to explicit costume choices?
When did the side vent make it's appearance? I generally start to notice it in movies and pictures from about mid 20th Century on.