Actual Differences Between High and Low(er) End Shoes

After running a search to find the definitive list of differences between high end shoes and low end shoes, I decided to start this thread so that those who have an extensive knowledge about mens' footwear could contribute and educate those like myself.

Allowable differences must be apparent and actually describable. "It's hard to describe" or "You have to see it in person" are lame excuses and most likely come from ignoramuses who buy expensive shoes because the shoe maker's initials are J.L., E.G., G.G., or P.C.

I'll start - from examining a pair of high end shoes vs low end shoes:

-Stitching is much more prevalent (depending on the style) and the stitches themselves are much smaller/finer

-Soles are shaped more uniquely including the waist and heel.

-Shoes are welted. The stitches for the welting on more expensive shoes look to be more closely together and smaller.

-Sometimes a step can be found where the heel begins at the end of the waist on more expensive shoes. (I read this in another thread and noticed it on a two pairs of my shoes) Can anyone explain why this is true for higher-end shoes?

Please add as I would like to get it to a point where any schmoe (like me) can take a shoe and evaluate it according to this list and ascertain its quality without seeing the brand name or price tag.

Originally Posted by alphaO888

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-Shoes are welted. The stitches for the welting on more expensive shoes look to be more closely together and smaller.
Not necessarily true, though a welted shoe does require more labor to manufacture than Blake-stitched, especially when handmade (as the bottom of the insole has to be skived by hand rather than gemmed) . The main utility in welted shoes is that they have greater resistance to outside moisture and can be resoled more times (as the welt can be replaced where the insole cannot).

Sometimes a step can be found where the heel begins at the end of the waist on more expensive shoes. (I read this in another thread and noticed it on a two pairs of my shoes) Can anyone explain why this is true for higher-end shoes?

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This has more to do with the style of the shoe than anything else. A 3/4 welt makes a shoe sleeker than a full welt, which is why you mostly see them on dress oxfords and the like. By the same token, country brogues look better with the chunkier full welt. While it's true that most Allen-Edmonds shoes have a full 360-degree welt, this is just one of their quirks. They actually do make shoes with a 3/4 welt, when they feel like it.

Leather quality is a big difference. the leather on Edward green or JM Weston shoes is much softer and more comfortable than the leather used by Alden or AE.

Is the P.C. Pierre Corthay?

Gemming

Originally Posted by SpooPoker

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Is the P.C. Pierre Corthay?

I think PC shoes means no sea turtle.

Originally Posted by alphaO888

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Stitching is much more prevalent (depending on the style) and the stitches themselves are much smaller/finer
Yes, smaller stitching and more even stitching is an indication of better quality. But aside from the evenness, at a certain price point all shoes have finer stitching. I suspect that the length of stitches is as much a function of trying to minimize production costs as anything else. I know that's a little hard to understand but a longer stitch takes much less thread than a shorter stitch and takes much less time to do. Those seemingly minor savings add up.

-Soles are shaped more uniquely including the waist and heel.

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Again more of a cost savings issue than any other. Some very high end shoes can have generic and even primitive looking/shaped soles. There is a styling issue as well as regional traditions which factor in to these considerations.

-Shoes are welted. The stitches for the welting on more expensive shoes look to be more closely together and smaller.

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In general , yes. Same reason as for upper stitching but there are many fine shoes made in the Eastern European Tradition that require long welt stitches to achieve their unique look. That said, it is definitely harder and more time consuming to stitch smaller stitches than a longer stitch...especially if the stitching is being done by hand. And much harder to control the lie and the spacing of the smaller stitch.

-Sometimes a step can be found where the heel begins at the end of the waist on more expensive shoes. (I read this in another thread and noticed it on a two pairs of my shoes) Can anyone explain why this is true for higher-end shoes?

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If you are speaking of the way a heel stack will be cut and finished so that it looks almost entirely separate from the waist--with the waist ending at the breast of the heel and the heel being proud of the waist by a clearly visible amount--this is a style choice that may be difficult to duplicate by machine and I think indicative of hand finishing. Generally speaking, hand work is skilled work and not only pays better but requires more time. This cuts across the board...best quality bespoke will always trump best manufactured. And the bespoke maker will always seek out and add these intriguing little fillips to showcase his skill and dedication.

Please add as I would like to get it to a point where any schmoe (like me) can take a shoe and evaluate it according to this list and ascertain its quality without seeing the brand name or price tag.

Click to expand...

All you have to do is look for the little details...the indications that the shoe has received individual attention. That said, there are construction techniques that have traditionally been the hallmarks of best quality...many of which are never seen and yet are inherently critical to quality...that the top name manufacturers emulate but never really deliver on. The important point in that respect, is that at any price level there is very little significant difference between competing brands; and throughout the price range from low to high, less significant difference than similarity. The rest is marketing pure and simple.

what are the actual differences between high and low SF thread topics? list em for a schmoe like me