Ambrosi Napoli

^^If it helps, the only side I take is my own. And it's usually right.

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

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Is there a different thread that I'm missing here? I never said to give Sal a break re: wait times for his pants. If these guys paid, and were promised a product by a certain time, they should have it, or get their money back, or both. My only real argument was that Matt said that Ambrosi is the only pant maker with as much handwork. What particularly irked me about this comment was that he scoffed at me when I told him Ercoles jackets were almost entirely done by hand. He suggested that it was impossible as his Rubinacci's don't have that much hand stitching and they are 5K a sportcoat.

What gets me is that we're basically arguing a moot point, as Matt pointed out, its just a matter of appreciating the craftsmanship. But everyone needs to take sides right?

Ok maybe I misinterpreted you. I think that the Ercole vs. Ambrosi "provincial" debate was extremely asinine for several reasons, including because (i) Ercole is more expensive than Ambrosi, as noted by Manton, and (ii) Ercole is widely reputed to have world-class trouser fitting skills, as noted by tutee in his thread on perfect pants.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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You can backtrack all you like, but there is no framework that would make any sense of this lunatic post that isn't built on class insecurity and ugly racial prejudice.
Yawn . . . Don't make that mistake - I'm not backtracking. I'd hate to disappoint since you've obviously settled on a talking point. Go ahead and believe I suffer from extreme class insecurity, I'm prejudiced against asians, I'm a lunatic, whatever - I'm not exactly losing sleep over your opinion.

If anything, this thread has made me very excited to take delivery my first suit from Frank Ercole on Tuesday. Oh to soon be able to wear pants made by the second most handstitchingest pantsmaker in the world.

Originally Posted by Big A

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I'm not exactly losing sleep over your opinion.

So are you saying, to speak in your parlance, that you're "cool with it"?

Originally Posted by Lightbringer

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I am always shocked to see how quickly people leap to diagnosing a problem with a clothing item from a single static picture which might not account for any number of factors.

A ******* men.

Originally Posted by JohnnyCrockett

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. . . And no, it wasn't a class thing. Foo mocked him with the "I'd still be cool with it" comment because NYR is really pretty crass in many of his posts, especially the one to which Foo was replying. If NYR can't write without profanity, slang, and colloquialisms, I don't think there's a problem with Foo pointing it out.
So if you mock someone for their slang and colloquialisms, that's not a class thing? Explain to me how that works?

Originally Posted by scruff

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So are you saying, to speak in your parlance, that you're "cool with it"?

In Internet parlance, I LOL'd

Originally Posted by Big A

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In Internet parlance, I LOL'd
+100

Originally Posted by Ataturk

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Bright red lines. Well, okay, I added them, but they're over folds in the fabric running from the neck to the armpits--usually indicates that the fronts aren't sloped enough for the wearer's shoulders.

But I don't claim to know anything about drafting shirt patterns, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

Got it. I'm still figuring out how different fit issues present themselves.

Pents.

Also, Rob, CAN YOU HEAR US???

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

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The bolded part was just highlighted because it was a dick comment, and totally unneeded. Sorry if that was too crass for you.
It was too crass. But you're right, it was a gratuitous comment on my part. My apologies.

Originally Posted by Big A

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So if you mock someone for their slang and colloquialisms, that's not a class thing? Explain to me how that works?
Wait. Were you attacking Foo because he was insinuating that NYR was in a lower class than him or because you truly believe NYR to be in a lower class than Foo and you're just mad Foo pointed it out? Your comment here suggests the latter.

I have never experience Ercole or Ambrosi. From what I've seen, both cut very nice trousers. The shape and fit are both superb. I've seen (and, once upon a time, drooled) at the details and handwork on Ambrosi's pants - back from when Foo posted detailed pics on his old old blog. I've now come to believe that there is such a thing as too much handwork. Ambrosis fall victim to this. I don't want to unbutton 17 buttons every time I go to the restroom. I also don't really care for pick stitching on my pockets. I would happily try Ercole. Are his prices really higher than Ambrosi? That makes sense given that similar one-man shops like Rizzo in Harvard Square charge upwards of $1K for a pair of extra pants when you're already buying a suit but I was under the impression that Ercole was more in the Mr. Ned price range. EDIT: For what it's worth, I just had Hemrajani cut me a pair of pants, copied from a pair which were made for me by Chan, and he did an excellent job. Obviously completely machine-stitched, but the fit and cut are perfect. VBC cloth. $220. 4 weeks.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I am actually wearing Ercole pants today. I can't say that I know how they compare WRT handwork. What's clear is that the Ambrosi handwork is much more visible or obvious. Ercole's more fades into the cloth and is harder to spot.

However, all visible stitches are by hand. Also, just like Ambrosi, he does a lap down the outer leg seam, also by hand. One difference is that Ambrosi hand tacks both the top and the bottom of belt loops whereas Ercole does them in the more British/American way of tucking the tops of the loops into the waistband.

Ambrosi pants have a unique configuration of buttons and fasteners. Ambrosi's have a little panel that attaches to two buttons on the inside plus two more buttons on the waistband. Ercole's are again more British/American: French fly with one button, hook closure, zipper.

The silhouette of Ecrole is different. More full, slightly higher rise, deeper pleats. These are "mid-Atlantic" in sihouette. Not as high as SR, not as low as a typical American RTW. Pleats in the English style. Ambrosi pleats are shallower and closer together.
Thanks for this and the one w/ your pics. Would be worth reposting in tutee's thread imo.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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^^If it helps, the only side I take is my own. And it's usually right.
What's wrong with your left side?

Originally Posted by emptym

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What's wrong with your left side?

Wilkinsoned at birth.