Ambrosi Napoli

Originally Posted by Big A

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I was poking fun at the elitist cock-sucker attitude you projected in the sentences I quoted. Though you are obviously highly opinionated when it comes to clothing I didn't figure you for downward social comparison. It now appears that, because you have various Italian tailors on speed dial, have spent a king's ransom on bespoke clothing, and have become something of a sought-out expert on Neapolitan clothing, you now think you are actually *better* in some quantifiable way than a teacher from Brooklyn who uses the local tailor. I find this hilarious. Did the latest shipment from Mariano include a listing in the social register? A membership in the Union Club? Did buying all that **** make you something other than an Asian guy who seems to work for a living like the rest of us, or suddenly provide you with a lofty perch from which you could look down your nose at the plebes? If so, I'm placing a big order with London House tomorrow - I've always wanted to be a member of the Everglades club, but I've got that embarrassing *Jewish* problem ....
This post is a startling revelation into your ethnic insecurities. Project as you like, but I guarantee you: you feel much worse about me being Asian than I do. I don't even want to speculate as to how you feel about being Jewish. The point is not that NYR is beneath me. The point is that he cannot have it both ways by proudly limiting himself to a local tailor while pontificating on others. Moreover, he's the one making the class argument. Apparently, tailors are too stupid to run an effective business and can't help but take new orders and new payments, like a lemmings headed for a cliff's edge. The Big Bad Client with the money to spend is to blame. One can proudly wear the hat of provincialism if he likes, but he can't take it off whenever it suits him to appear worldly.

Originally Posted by Big A

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I was poking fun at the elitist cock-sucker attitude you projected in the sentences I quoted. Though you are obviously highly opinionated when it comes to clothing I didn't figure you for downward social comparison.

It now appears that, because you have various Italian tailors on speed dial, have spent a king's ransom on bespoke clothing, and have become something of a sought-out expert on Neapolitan clothing, you now think you are actually *better* in some quantifiable way than a teacher from Brooklyn who uses the local tailor. I find this hilarious.

Did the latest shipment from Mariano include a listing in the social register? A membership in the Union Club? Did buying all that **** make you something other than an Asian guy who seems to work for a living like the rest of us, or suddenly provide you with a lofty perch from which you could look down your nose at the plebes?

If so, I'm placing a big order with London House tomorrow - I've always wanted to be a member of the Everglades club, but I've got that embarrassing *Jewish* problem ....

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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One can proudly wear the hat of provincialism if he likes, but he can't take it off whenever it suits him to appear worldly.
While I disagree with NYR's interpretation of the situaion... Just because your tailor happens to live 7000 miles away from you does not make one who chooses to use one 7 miles from him 'provincial'. That you would use that (contemptuous) term unprovoked says quite more about you, and your anxieties/priorities, than anyone/anything else.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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The point is not that NYR is beneath me. The point is that he cannot have it both ways by proudly limiting himself to a local tailor while pontificating on others. Moreover, he's the one making the class argument. Apparently, tailors are too stupid to run an effective business and can't help but take new orders and new payments, like a lemmings headed for a cliff's edge. The Big Bad Client with the money to spend is to blame. One can proudly wear the hat of provincialism if he likes, but he can't take it off whenever it suits him to appear worldly.
Matt, I was not being provincial in my choice of tailor, I was being practical. And I was not making a class argument AT ALL. Whether its a tailor, or a bank, or a law firm, in business no one who wants to grow will turn away prospective clients for fear of becoming too big. In fact, I think its partially one of the reasons people can be secretive about who their tailors are (MBT). I am sensible though, and can see how you may interpret something I say AS class based, but this simply is not the case. You should know though, that much of what you, and other posters her do post, is interpreted as cocky, and holier than thou, based on your previous postings. Regarding the practicality of choosing a provincial tailor, its well know, I teach school. I don't make the money of a Wall Streeter or a lawyer, nor have I inherited ANYTHING. I bust ****** (as do you) for the money I earn, I like getting clothes made for me, and I go where I do because its in my neighborhood, I like the people AND I can afford it. You seem to (and correct me if I'm wrong) dismiss what Ercole can produce because he's local. I'm too lazy to go earch but when I mentioned that Ercoles products are 99% done by hand, you scoffed, and said how can he charge so little. You forget, that Rubinacci (whose work I admire btw) has a brand to sell, just like Prada and D&G. Ambrosi is now doing the same. So there's going to be a lot more overhead on clothing made by them. that doesn't mean its not good, but just because my pants aren't $750 a pair, doesn't mean they can't be as good if not BETTER than the ones made by Sal. Again, I'm not saying Sal and Rubinacci don't make wonderful garments, but that you shouldn't simply dismiss other tailors because their products aren't as expensive. I also think part of the price paid for Ambrosi and Rubinacci (and to an extent NSM) is the romance in the fact that its made in Naples. Many of you travel there as part of your bespoke process for fittings, pick ups, or selections. Not nearly as romantic as taking the N train to Dyker Heights, but when you compare the meat and bones of the garment, you'll find that its not that different. In fact, I'd like to offer an e-olive branch if you will, and invite you to go see Frank to get a pair of pants made. Bring your Ambrosis. I could meet you there, even buy you an espresso across the street if you like, and you can see for yourself what I'm talking about, and maybe even be pleasantly surprised to find a less expensive option, with the convenience of being right here for quick fixes, or anything else you might want/need. I'm really not some angry socialist dickhead, and I know deepdown, you're not an angry elitist one. PM me if you'd like to come to Ercoles and give em a shot. **Edit** If you'd like to take me along to Naples with you next time you travel, and pick me up a pair of pants, I'd be more than happy to oblige, even if I have to travel streerage...

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

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I'm really not some angry socialist dickhead, and I know deepdown, you're not an angry elitist one. PM me if you'd like to come to Ercoles and give em a shot.

Careful - He's gonna headbutt when he sees you. He's a Citeh fan.

I think the issue that I have and I think anyone in my position would have is really simple actually.

I met Salvatore last September and ordered a pair of pants, I was also dropping off a few pairs that needed alterations. Six weeks later I emailed him to check on progress, nothing. I sent the check another week later for the full payment (to some guy in Yonkers, very odd). Fast forward to December, multiple emails and discret notices on the board that I wanted an update on the order, nothing. Third week of January and he finally reaches out to me with something along the lines of "sorry for the delayed response, your emails were going to my spam folder, the pants will be ready next week, what is your address for shipment." Ok I thought, **** happens. Another month goes by and still nothing. I reach back out to him..."did you send the pants?!?!?" Nothing, dead silence. I have Foo and others call him to tell him he hasn't made due on his promise to me...nothing.

The point is, I don't mind waiting - 3 months if need be...if Salvatore was more open with me now and his reason for the delay was clearly articulated, even if it was he was growing his business, than I'd likely be ok. But the total lack of communication, the avoidance, the lame excuses is too much to ask of a customer to deal with.

Originally Posted by S. Magnozzi

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Too lazy to search, but I believe edmorel once noted that NSM's trousers are highly comparable to Ambrosi's.

Do you find any differences in fit? What I especially like about my Ambrosi's is the fit and 'elasticity' in the groin area

, something I have not experienced with other tailors yet.
Yes, probably main difference is in the groin area. I think you have used correct word for describing Amrosi's fit - 'elasticity'.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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I think the issue that I have and I think anyone in my position would have is really simple actually.

I met Salvatore last September and ordered a pair of pants, I was also dropping off a few pairs that needed alterations. Six weeks later I emailed him to check on progress, nothing. I sent the check another week later for the pull payment (to some guy in Yonkers, very odd). Fast forward to December, multiple emails and discret notices on the board that I wanted an update on the order, nothing. Third week of January and he finally reaches out to me with something along the lines of "sorry for the delayed response, your emails were going to my spam folder, the pants will be ready next week, what is your address for shipment." Ok I thought, **** happens. Another month goes by and still nothing. I reach back out to him..."did you send the pants?!?!?" Nothing, dead silence. I have Foo and others call him to tell him he hasn't made due on his promise to me...nothing.

The point is, I don't mind waiting - 3 months if need be...if Salvatore was more open with me now and his reason for the delay was clearly articulated, even if it was he was growing his business, than I'd likely be ok. But the total lack of communication, the avoidance, the lame excuses is too much to ask of a customer to deal with.
It seemed that you've visited Napoli during all that period for Attolini and LH, didn't you?
Or you did not visit Ambrosi during your stays?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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This post is a startling revelation into your ethnic insecurities. Project as you like, but I guarantee you: you feel much worse about me being Asian than I do. I don't even want to speculate as to how you feel about being Jewish. The point is not that NYR is beneath me. The point is that he cannot have it both ways by proudly limiting himself to a local tailor while pontificating on others. Moreover, he's the one making the class argument. Apparently, tailors are too stupid to run an effective business and can't help but take new orders and new payments, like a lemmings headed for a cliff's edge. The Big Bad Client with the money to spend is to blame. One can proudly wear the hat of provincialism if he likes, but he can't take it off whenever it suits him to appear worldly.
I find it impossible to believe you are really this ******* stupid - I think you are being obtuse just for the fun of it. In case I'm wrong, I'll break it down further for you: in the context of historical cross-borough snobbery (specifically white Manhattan's historical bias against the"ethnic" outer boroughs) it was incredibly amusing to see you address NYR as if you were one of the Vanderbilts. It was even more amusing given that your opinion of yourself vs. NYR apparently derives from the fact that you use Italian tailors who happen to be located in Italy and he doesn't. Don't you see the irony? The part I wrote about the Everglades club was meant as sarcasm, which I'll assume you realized before choosing to make my supposed self hate and your Asian pride the focus of the argument. Frankly, its the half of me that's Catholic that I'm really ashamed of [/notseriousincaseyoustilldontgetit]. I obviously don't care if you are Asian, Jewish, or whatever. My point was that buying expensive bespoke garments doesn't make you "better" than the guy who doesn't - a fact that seemed to have escaped you. As for the rest of your argument (NYR thinks tailors are stupid, you can't limit yourself to a local tailor and comment on the economics of tailoring, etc.) my only response is this: if that's the conclusion you draw from his comments, it might be best that you gave up law (if a previous poster is correct) because logical reasoning ain't your thing.

Originally Posted by whnay.

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I think the issue that I have ... the total lack of communication, the avoidance, the lame excuses is too much to ask of a customer to deal with.
No one's arguing that point, that's for sure. The fact that this thread, which I have done my share to completely derail, started as a sort of "apology thread" from the man himself is a good sign though. At least I think it is. He could have clammed up and disappeared into Calabria or something. Also, if he's cashing your check in Yonkers, at least some of your money is probably still in the U.S. (it's a tax minimization strategy). In the worst case scenario - no money, no pants, no communication - you could probably get it back ....

As a person of mixed parentage, my father is Jewish and my mother being Chinese, I cannot describe how torn I feel when I read the exchanges between the Foo and Big A.

Regardless, I hear that the Singaporeans who ordered their pants from Ambrosi got them but then they paid about $1000 a pair.

Originally Posted by fischerblack

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As a person of mixed parentage, my father is Jewish and my mother being Chinese, I cannot describe how torn I feel when I read the exchanges between the Foo and Big A.

Regardless, I hear that the Singaporeans who ordered their pants from Ambrosi got them but then they paid about $1000 a pair.

That is a lot of money for pants. Elasticity in the groin area doesn't come cheap.

Originally Posted by S. Magnozzi

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Too lazy to search, but I believe edmorel once noted that NSM's trousers are highly comparable to Ambrosi's.

Do you find any differences in fit? What I especially like about my Ambrosi's is the fit and 'elasticity' in the groin area

, something I have not experienced with other tailors yet.

I have only one pair of NSM trousers. There is significantly less handwork. Much of the detailing is the same. They fit quite well but differently, less "shape" around the seat and less taper to the leg.

Ruh roh, this is starting to remind me of the story one of the best tailors in NYC who [sadly and secretively] had a gambling afffliction.

When he was inspired, there was little comparison.

Fragile folks tailors can be.

- M

Originally Posted by mmkn

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Ruh roh, this is starting to remind me of the story one of the best tailors in NYC who [sadly and secretively] had a gambling afffliction.

When he was inspired, there was little comparison.

Fragile folks tailors can be.

- M
Every one of your posts is just a bit more of a trainwreck than the last.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I have only one pair of NSM trousers. There is significantly less handwork. Much of the detailing is the same. They fit quite well but differently, less "shape" around the seat and less taper to the leg.
Tapering on Amrosi's is too extreme. It is 18.5-19 cm. on my pants.