Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Baron · Apr 15, 2011

I love the Dover.

pebblegrain · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie

Am I the only one who cant stand the look of the Dover? Everyone raves about it, but I don't get it. It looks marsupialed, if shoes could be marsupialed. And I like most EG designs.

they are the ultimate split toes. period.

if you dont like split toes, you aren't going to like the dover, obviously.

its not really that complicated

Newcomer · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Pliny

Hey if it's good enough for Cusey.

Yep there's def a bit of group-think about it. and it's hard to get past 'second most sublime RTW shoe' and 'EG flagship' - but if in some horrible nightmare i had to choose only 2 pairs of shoes, a Dover on the 82 in dark oak antiqued willow calf would be one of them, and not just because in the 82 last it's the equal (with Vass F) most comfortable RTW shoe for me.

It's got great balance - if you look side on, the seamless counter compliments the stitched vamp - the Vass Norweger e.g. doesn't have that. The higher toe-box means it doesn't pinch and the shoe look more substantial. The square waist and double sole gives it weight and dignity - is there a Lobb that has the Dover's gravitas and 'manliness'? (The Chambord is inferior).

It's unpretentious, not flashy, so it's easier to love over a long time. It's a derby that goes great with suits.
etc etc

and there's the pig bristle artisanal stitching

Originally Posted by Baron

I love the Dover.

Originally Posted by pebblegrain

they are the ultimate split toes. period.

if you dont like split toes, you aren't going to like the dover, obviously.

its not really that complicated

Originally Posted by geoffmartin17

Hm - i wear a 43 EU in vass F last and a 10D on the alden plaza last. 9.5 UK on the C+J 325 last,

Any experience with any of those?

-Geoff

Well, I wear 43 EU in the F last, 9E UK on the 348 in C&J, 9.5E in G&G, US 10D in AE, 10D in Alden Aberdeen, etc. I would recommend trying them of if you are going to drop a bunch of money on a pair of shoes, personally

meister · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie

Am I the only one who cant stand the look of the Dover? Everyone raves about it, but I don't get it. It looks marsupialed, if shoes could be marsupialed. And I like most EG designs.

+100 especially with that godawful undersewing thing like Sutor does.

MalfordOfLondon · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by meister

+100 especially with that godawful undersewing thing like Sutor does.

I love the undersewing

- It's what it's allllll about

fritzl · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by whnay.

People can say what they want about the prices, which I agree are nose bleed expensive, but JL Paris is the gold standard in bespoke men's footwear. I can't think of a maker that is even close except ex-JL Paris artisans. Many of the well-known english makers could learn a thing or two from looking at these pictures - the elegance of nearly every shoe is profound.

never been to vienna?

this is low standard compared what can be seen there, period

lurk more noob...

...and i'm open to qualified communication. nuff said.

fritzl · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by Newcomer

Start off with a little warmup...

this is quite a boring execution of the norweger shoe. very uninspiring. wear them in good health.

DWFII · Apr 16, 2011

Personal tastes are one thing...and I, myself, would probably never wear a pair of split toes. But this is where the real shoe aficionados get separated from the fan-boys.

Round closing ("understitching&quot

is considered one of the most difficult techniques that a maker can bring to a shoe. Especially when done with any kind of finesse. It is also considered the strongest stitch that can be used to close two pieces of leather. It is entirely hand done and is nearly emblematic of everything that makes a high quality shoe.

You don't have to like it aesthetically but anyone who cannot at least appreciate it has neither the eye nor the sensibilities necessary to recognize or do justice to fine quality anything.

fritzl · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by Pliny

It's got great balance -

not really. manliness? haha

most of your observations mirror your preferences. can i have a proof of the handstitched apron please. it doesn't look like that. when i asked real craftsmen, there was silence, which tells a lot. just saying.

putting the dover in the same sentence of a vash norweger is blasphemy, imo.

SpooPoker · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by meister

+100 especially with that godawful undersewing thing like Sutor does.

Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon

I love the undersewing

- It's what it's allllll about

Whaatttt - the undersewing is part of the quality you are paying for...

meister · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by DWFII

Personal tastes are one thing...and I, myself, would probably never wear a pair of split toes. But this is where the real shoe aficionados get separated from the fan-boys.

Round closing ("understitching") is considered one of the most difficult techniques that a maker can bring to a shoe. Especially when done with any kind of finesse. It is also considered the strongest stitch that can be used to close two pieces of leather. It is entirely hand done and is nearly emblematic of everything that makes a high quality shoe.

You don't have to like it aesthetically but anyone who cannot at least appreciate it has neither the eye nor the sensibilities necessary to recognize or do justice to fine quality anything.

I don't like it aesthetically...mine was not a comment on the cordwainer's skills.

fritzl · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by pebblegrain

they are the ultimate split toes. period.

if you dont like split toes, you aren't going to like the dover, obviously.

its not really that complicated

gives me a chuckle, thank you very much.

ever heard of the gg hove? i suspect no.

Newcomer · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by fritzl

not really. manliness? haha

most of your observations mirror your preferences. can i have a proof of the handstitched apron please. it doesn't look like that. when i asked real craftsmen, there was silence, which tells a lot. just saying. putting the dover in the same sentence of a vash norweger is blasphemy, imo.
Different strokes for different folks--but I guess my view is that I never would put the Dover and the Norweger in the same sentence because as far as I am concerned, they are very different shoes. And although I am not certain that the Dover is necessarily 'manly,' it does have a simple, rustic quality that I really enjoy. And Fritzl, despite almost always having preferences that are the polar opposite of your own, I still always enjoy learning from your posts. With that said, I will likely be in Vienna this summer, so it would be interesting to see these artisans. And I agree with Whnay. about JLPB, those monks are stunning.

DWFII · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by meister

I don't like it aesthetically...mine was not a comment on the cordwainer's skills.
I understand...while I love the round closing and the beauty of the technique, I'm not real fond of split-toes, myownself. Might be the only shoe style where the maker really gets to strut his stuff, however.

Newcomer · Apr 16, 2011

Originally Posted by DWFII

I understand...while I love the round closing and the beauty of the technique, I'm not real fond of split-toes, myownself. Might be the only shoe style where the maker really gets to strut his stuff, however.

By the way DWFII, being the wealth of knowledge that you are... could you comment on what exactly "round sewing" is? I get the gist of it, and the fact that it is done with a pig bristle, etc., but I know little more than that.

Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

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