Custom Trousers in NYC?

Grammaton Cleric · Apr 15, 2011

Looking to buy a few pairs of custom trousers in New York (Manhattan) for $300-$400. The two names that crop up on the forum, LS / Dario and Mr. Ned, have left me unimpressed.

Any other options in that price range? I'd like to order from Mina, but I imagine it'll be 4 months before I receive a pair, and I need them sooner than that.

Manton · Apr 15, 2011

Ercole charges more (around $700) but the fit is superb.

Master-Classter · Apr 15, 2011

who does NYR use?

sellahi22 · Apr 15, 2011

Dario is not skilled at fitting, but he can copy trousers almost perfectly. His stitching/construction/detailing is also very good (equal to my Chan trousers and better than OTR incotex). I even had him do hand stitching on some cotton trousers, using some Borrelli trousers as an example, and was very impressed by the results. He is also insanely cheap - $90 for CMT.

I would get a pair from Ercole or whoever and take to Dario for copies.

Manton · Apr 15, 2011

Actually, if you source your own cloth you can save a lot. I think Frank is $450 CMT.

Also, I have tended to order expensive cloth when going through him so maybe standard stuff is cheaper.

sellahi22 · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

Actually, if you source your own cloth you can save a lot. I think Frank is $450 CMT.

Also, I have tended to order expensive cloth when going through him so maybe standard stuff is cheaper.

I that he was a bit cheaper than that, unless prices have gone up recently. I recall being quoted $250 or $300 for CMT last fall. Andrew Rogers was selling Harrisons cloth for 40-60 GBP per meter, so the all-in price was $400-450.

taxgenius · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

Ercole charges more (around $700) but the fit is superb.

Does anyone else have experience with Ercole's fitting skills?

Manton · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by sellahi22

I that he was a bit cheaper than that, unless prices have gone up recently. I recall being quoted $250 or $300 for CMT last fall. Andrew Rogers was selling Harrisons cloth for 40-60 GBP per meter, so the all-in price was $400-450.

There may be a Brooklyn price and a Manhattan price. I pay the latter.

Not complainin', my pants have all come out very good and he will go the extra mile to make things right.

Grammaton Cleric · Apr 15, 2011

Thanks Manton and others. Just called Ercole - CMT is $450.

Grammaton Cleric · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

Ercole charges more (around $700) but the fit is superb.

I'm curious on your experience with Ercole - did you have to provide quite of bit of direction, or was his default trouser style to your liking? I ask as I have noticed many lower-priced NY tailors to have very poor fitting skills when it comes to trousers - particularly a sloppy seat and far too long a rise.

Thanks

sellahi22 · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric

I'm curious on your experience with Ercole - did you have to provide quite of bit of direction, or was his default trouser style to your liking? I ask as I have noticed many lower-priced NY tailors to have very poor fitting skills when it comes to trousers - particularly a sloppy seat and far too long a rise.

Thanks

Seat and rise are pretty simple measurements. The main art with trousers, IMO, is getting a clean fall, a nice taper, and correct shaping from the seat to the back of the knee.

Grammaton Cleric · Apr 15, 2011

Also, would 2m be ok for a pair of trousers, or is 2.5m the wya to go?

Manton · Apr 15, 2011

2 M is plenty. Probably too much but safe.

I didn't give him much direction. I wore a pair I was reasonably happy with and told him how I liked them. He has been very meticulous about making marginal improvements with every fitting/pair.

Grammaton Cleric · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

2 M is plenty. Probably too much but safe.

I didn't give him much direction. I wore a pair I was reasonably happy with and told him how I liked them. He has been very meticulous about making marginal improvements with every fitting/pair.

Thank you

zarathustra · Apr 15, 2011

Originally Posted by sellahi22

Dario is not skilled at fitting, but he can copy trousers almost perfectly. His stitching/construction/detailing is also very good (equal to my Chan trousers and better than OTR incotex). I even had him do hand stitching on some cotton trousers, using some Borrelli trousers as an example, and was very impressed by the results. He is also insanely cheap - $90 for CMT.

I would get a pair from Ercole or whoever and take to Dario for copies.

Thanks. I have a few pairs of pants that need to be retired but they fit so well I have been reluctant. Perhaps I should have Dario copy them? Is it easier to contact him directly or through LS?

Custom Trousers in NYC?

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