My OneBoot, by DWFII (Updated w/ Visit to DW and a second pair)

Fascinating thread. The pics of the boots are great enough, but the documentation of their construction make this a hall of fame thread

I wanted to thank every one of you who spent the time looking at (and reading about) these photos and who have offered such kind words and encouragement. I wish I could thank each of you individually.

I will make one comment...this whole Trade is literally thousands of years old but...and this is subjective...I am of the opinion that it reached its pinnacle in the Victorian Age. The real masters--the Elder Shoe Gods/the Old Guys/my heros--were the great Victorian shoemakers. So I was pleased to receive the comment from slewfoot that they looked Victorian. Maybe I catch a divine wind ever now and again.

Awesome pictures. Thanks for taking the time to post them

step by step, this is great, now another "future to purchase" item is added to the list...

Originally Posted by DWFII

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AFAIK, Lexol brand Neatsfoot is pure and natural and does not contain silicone. But it is not silicon that darkens leather it is simply the oil. Lexol NF is super homogenized so this effect is minimized to some extent.

DW,
Is that Lexol Neatsfoot NF formula? I can't find the pure neatsfool oil. Is Fiebing's Pure Neatsfoot Oil ok?

Originally Posted by Fishball

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DW, Is that Lexol Neatsfoot NF formula? I can't find the pure neatsfool oil. Is Fiebing's Pure Neatsfoot Oil ok?
No, you're right...it's the NF I'm talking about. When it first came out (or when I first became aware of it, at any rate) I was told that it was super-homogenized neatsfoot oil. But when I look on Lexol's site it is not described as "pure." So what is it? I don't know and can't seem to find a detailed list of ingredients. It appears to contain lanolin and other moisturizing oils, as well as neatsfoot. And it's 100% non-toxic, according to the MSDS . That said...

Neatsfoot, a natural oil, is an excellent conditioner but it does not bond to leather fibers and also migrates to other materials. The oils in Lexol-nf go through a process of chemical alteration which allows them to penetrate easily into the leather, bond themselves to the fibers. The translucent amber oils in Lexol-nf mix freely with water, a unique capability that makes the product equally useful on wet or dry leather. How it works:

• Lexol-nf doesn't darken leather and leaves light-colored leathers with their natural tones. It is not intended for suede or other rough-finished leathers.
• Lexol-nf is pH balanced to preserve leather and protect against deterioration and the damaging effects of the environment. Ordinary neatsfoot oil is not pH balanced.
• Lexol-nf contains moisturizers which combine with the lubricants to prevent dryness and brittleness.
• Lanolin derivatives enhance Lexol-nf’s outstanding conditioning properties.
• Lexol-nf nourishes the collagen and elastin proteins of leather fibers, literally binding itself to these fibers to maintain the flexibility and durability of the leather.
• Lexol-nf contains no chemical solvents to seep onto other materials and cause damage or discoloration.

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Fiebings sells a neatsfoot compound that is a blend of natural and synthetics and they sell a pure neatsfoot. I would be leery of both--AFAIK, they both darken leather.

Originally Posted by DWFII

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No, you're right...it's the NF I'm talking about. When it first came out (or when I first became aware of it, at any rate) I was told that it was super-homogenized neatsfoot oil. But when I look on Lexol's site it is not described as "pure."

So what is it? I don't know and can't seem to find a detailed list of ingredients. It appears to contain lanolin and other moisturizing oils, as well as neatsfoot. and it's 100% non-toxic, according to the MSDS .

That said...

Fiebings sells a neatsfoot compound that is a blend of natural and synthetics and they sell a pure neatsfoot. I would be leery of both--AFAIK, they both darken leather.

Thanks a lot.

Thanks again philosophe, and others.

Originally Posted by pebblegrain

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look great, although I can't bike in leather soles.
I didn't think I could either. But rubber pedals help. And I've found that tough leather soles do fine on metal pedals.

Originally Posted by DWFII

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... I must apologize. Either I misunderstood or I didn't make myself clear. My lasts are set at 5/8" or 8/8" heels. The fiddleback looks terrific with the higher (8/8") heels and not so good with the lower heel. Since you ordered the 5/8" heels I think this was appropriate. ..
No need at all to apologize. I actually prefer the gently rounded sole to a sharp fiddleback. I'd never seen anything but a fiddleback or a flat sole. This rounded sole is gorgeous imo.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

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Mark and DWFII, Fantastic looking boots! Something about them reminds me of the Victorian era - in a good way. Not something you see all the time while having a fun rusticity to them. Congrats and wear them well!
Thanks D. And thanks so much for your generosity the other night.

Originally Posted by imatlas

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...There was an SF'er who makes custom boot trees for a very reasonable rate, not sure if he's still around though.
Oh, thanks for reminding me of that thread. Interesting design on those trees. I wonder if it works well.

Originally Posted by TheWraith

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I have this great fear that I will never get to Oregon...

I've never been there either. I was fortunate enough to be in LA when DW was too, but if you're ready you can order from afar.

Originally Posted by DWFII

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...Then the shoe is inseamed (hand-welted). this is Baker welt.and the inseaming is done at roughly 4 SPI.

...
Woah, amazing pictures and commentary, DW. Thank you!

Originally Posted by emptym

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Oh, thanks for reminding me of that thread. Interesting design on those trees. I wonder if it works well.
M, I remember that thread as well. I always wondered how they could be what they purport to be. If the tree is not closely modeled after the original last, it cannot be a lasted tree. For instance, the comb of most lasts are notably narrower than the heel seat of the last...yet the tree depicted is virtually the same width from the base of the heel to the the top of the tree. the last wasn't like that, the shoe wasn't made like that. How can the tree be said to be a "lasted tree?" It may be a very good tree. It may be very close to the inside dimensions of the shoe, it may fulfill its function as a boot tree most wonderfully... but how can it be said to be lasted if it is derived independently of the last?

Originally Posted by emptym

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Woah, amazing pictures and commentary, DW. Thank you!
Hey, making a pair of bespoke shoes for someone is necessarily a collaboration. So thank you. And since you weren't looking for western boots, and since you didn't know me from beans (my PR campaign and Madison Avenue advertising firm having fallen on hard times ) I appreciate the leap of faith in giving a relatively unknown shoemaker a go.

Yet another very informative thread from DWFII. Thank you again for sharing so many details. I'm not why my mind pulled the word "channeled" when I was thinking of the beautiful fiddleback sole in his previous example, but you correctly read my mind.

Originally Posted by Chips

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Yet another very informative thread from DWFII. Thank you again for sharing so many details. I'm not why my mind pulled the word "channeled" when I was thinking of the beautiful fiddleback sole in his previous example, but you correctly read my mind.
Thank you...while I appreciate all the kind words about the looks or workmanship, even more I relish it when someone tells me that they have been helped or informed.

DWFII, those boots are works of art. The photographs show off the effort that went into the making, and proudly display the skills of a seasoned, experienced artisan. Thank you so much for the effort and time that went to taking these great photos and writing the detailed commentary. It made for a GREAT saturday morning reading.

M, I have no shame in admitting my envy I hope that you really enjoy your boots. They should serve you well for years and years!

Originally Posted by srivats

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DWFII, those boots are works of art. The photographs show off the effort that went into the making, and proudly display the skills of a seasoned, experienced artisan. Thank you so much for the effort and time that went to taking these great photos and writing the detailed commentary. It made for a GREAT saturday morning reading. M, I have no shame in admitting my envy

I hope that you really enjoy your boots. They should serve you well for years and years!
Thanks Sri. BTW, Thornton is almost ready...almost 600 pages. I expect it to be uploaded within a couple of months...I'm working on the index right now and then I need to scan in all the advertisements at the back and...done. I haven't forgotten.

A picture is worth a thousand words- thanks for taking the time to take the photos and post them, D. The boots look great and the handwork is fascinating.

I think the capstone photo would be emptym on his bike with the boots on!