My OneBoot, by DWFII (Updated w/ Visit to DW and a second pair)

Originally Posted by DWFII

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As mentioned I took photos during the making of Emptym's shoes. I'm trying to teach myself to take photos in "manual" mode and adjust aperture and so forth. Some photos just came out fuzzy especially on close-ups. Those got discarded.
That is a great set of photos. It is fabulous to see the details of the boot construction. I couldn't tell what the leather pieces were until the lasting photo, and then I had to go back to look at the other pictures to see them with new eyes. It must take getting a wonderful new pair of boots to another level to see images of their construction. It makes me wish Rach's bag had come with construction photos.

Originally Posted by Fishball

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A side question. Nick on his blog said he recommend neatfoot oil to conditioning the chromexcel, do you know will it darken the color of the natural or light brown chromexcel? And also, what brand selling real neatfoot oil without silicon?
AFAIK, Lexol brand Neatsfoot is pure and natural and does not contain silicone. But it is not silicon that darkens leather it is simply the oil. Lexol NF is super homogenized so this effect is minimized to some extent.

Thank you for the kind words, everyone.

Originally Posted by Chips

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Those are amazing M! Wear them in good health! Did you intentionally opt out of the channeled sole?
AFAIK, the soles are channeled, with hidden or covered channels. But the waist isn't fiddlebacked, if that's what you mean. It does have a very nice roundedness to it but not the concave curves and defined ridge of a fiddleback. I asked for a moderately high heel, and DW advised me that a fiddlebacked waist wouldn't go well with that. I'm not so attached to fiddleback soles (in fact, they're probably a disadvantage on a bike), so I was happy to sacrifice that for my preferred heel.

Originally Posted by Thomas

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I'm glad they turned out well for you emptym. DWF's work always manages to look both solid and elegant at the same time.
That is a great description of his work, T: "solid and elegant at the same time."

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

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why not go for boot trees?
I think they would have been cost-prohibitive for me. I'm not sure if they're worth it for such low boots. I guess the one adv. they would have would be keeping the tongue smoother if I laced the boots tightly against the trees, but I don't think I'm fastidious enough to do that. Any ideas, DW what custom boot trees go for if someone wanted them?

Originally Posted by DWFII

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... The next photo shows the quarters and quarter linings . Again I have blocked the linings....thus eliminating any backseam inside the shoe which might become misaligned inside a tall top shoe or cause chaffing as the foots comes and goes.

... I have a few more...which I will post later today or tomorrow.
Thank you for all the pics and explanations, DW. I look forward to the others when you get a chance.

Originally Posted by james_timothy

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...It must take getting a wonderful new pair of boots to another level to see images of their construction. It makes me wish Rach's bag had come with construction photos.
I agree. The first time I was able to see this was when Chay from AS sent me the pics of my "oneshoe" being made. I really enjoyed seeing them. Imo, seeing the process helps one appreciate (to some small degree, I'm sure) all the work that goes into making these items (and their makers) that we often take for granted.

it's funny how some folks love shell for its weather/water resistance, while others don't like it b/c of potential effects it leaves after it gets wet

DF - great boots. do you know if Nick recommended Venetian ONLY for conditioning and health + some polish for anything else? or is he/you of the opinion for something like cigar or burgundy shell, Venetian is the 1 and only thing you need?

look great, although I can't bike in leather soles.

This is a fantastic thread. Great to see SF connections work out so well - not only for the buyer and seller, but for the knowledge shared for all from it.

Empty - Great boots. Enjoy wearing them.

DW - Thanks for the detailed in progress photos and descriptions of your work. It is great to see the craftmanship that goes into a truly handmade pair of shoes/boots. Outstanding.

Originally Posted by emptym

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Thank you for the kind words, everyone.
From me as well.

Originally Posted by emptym

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AFAIK, the soles are channeled, with hidden or covered channels.
Yes...the next set of photos will make that clear.

Originally Posted by emptym

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But the waist isn't fiddlebacked, if that's what you mean. It does have a very nice roundedness to it but not the concave curves and defined ridge of a fiddleback. I asked for a moderately high heel, and DW advised me that a fiddlebacked waist wouldn't go well with that.
I must apologize. Either I misunderstood or I didn't make myself clear. My lasts are set at 5/8" or 8/8" heels. The fiddleback looks terrific with the higher (8/8") heels and not so good with the lower heel. Since you ordered the 5/8" heels I think this was appropriate.

Originally Posted by emptym

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Any ideas, DW what custom boot trees go for if someone wanted them?
Half the price of the shoes? If you could find someone in this country who did them. If I were working in Europe it would be another story altogether. And a different base price too.

Originally Posted by makewayhomer

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it's funny how some folks love shell for its weather/water resistance, while others don't like it b/c of potential effects it leaves after it gets wet DF - great boots. do you know if Nick recommended Venetian ONLY for conditioning and health + some polish for anything else? or is he/you of the opinion for something like cigar or burgundy shell, Venetian is the 1 and only thing you need?
Venetian cream should be good for all smooth leathers. I am familiar with it from back in the day when it was a (somewhat) major shoe maintenance product. Since that time it has kind of disappeared and I was actually surprised when Nick said he preferred it for the shell. You can buy it in small bottles or gallon (?) cans on the net. That said and to be honest, even though I knew of it, I never used it much. I included it with M's shoes simply on the recommendation of Nick--the horse's mouth, as who should say.

Noice, guys. Wear them in good health, EmptyM.

Mark and DWF, great shoes! I'm looking forward to seeing these featured in a future Wall Street Journal article.

There was an SF'er who makes custom boot trees for a very reasonable rate, not sure if he's still around though.

Originally Posted by DWFII

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Venetian cream should be good for all smooth leathers. I am familiar with it from back in the day when it was a (somewhat) major shoe maintenance product. Since that time it has kind of disappeared and I was actually surprised when Nick said he preferred it for the shell. You can buy it in small bottles or gallon (?) cans on the net.

That said and to be honest, even though I knew of it, I never used it much. I included it with M's shoes simply on the recommendation of Nick--the horse's mouth, as who should say.

right...I really meant "should he use black polish in addition to the Venetian"? I know Nick recommended Venetian, but didn't know if recommended that in totality, or in conjunction with something else

Mark and DWFII,

Fantastic looking boots! Something about them reminds me of the Victorian era - in a good way. Not something you see all the time while having a fun rusticity to them. Congrats and wear them well!

I have this great fear that I will never get to Oregon...

So... After the shoes are assembled, the insole has to be prepared. This means cutting a channel and a feather...the space in-between is known as a "holdfast." You will note that I carry the channel all the way into the heel seat area. This provides an anchor for the heelseat stitching. The insole is Baker insole shoulder and about 10 iron (@5mm). The shoe is then lasted (sorry no pics) and the toe stiffener is added. This is (or can be) roughly 4 iron insole shoulder. Scraps in many cases--cut-offs from making insoles. In this photo you can also see the mid-liners--an additional piece of (usually ) lining leather sandwiched in-between the actual lining and the vamp and extending from the heel stiffener (another piece of insole shoulder at approximately 6 iron (1/8"). I put the toe stiffener over the mid-liner (some makers do it the other way around) because then I can rasp the edge to blend in invisibly. Then the shoe is inseamed (hand-welted). this is Baker welt.and the inseaming is done at roughly 4 SPI. Because the shell is heavy and thick(er), as the leather is pulled over the heelseat area, it fforms "pipes" and those pipes must be cut away to create a flat surface. This next photos is a close-up of the heelseat and although it looks unsightly...because of the contrast between the cut shell and the black surface...it is strong and sound. You can see the edge of a plastic upper covering...to protect against marring and wayward dye. the big factories use this technique...bespoke makers used to use bed sheets among other solutions. I have been working on a shrink wrap approach that shows great promise...undertaken mostly because I was not happy with plastic bags or this plastic wrap. The main thing to note is how close the heelseat stitches are and yet how much room is left for the seatlift and for pegging the outsole and heel stack. The outsole is then mounted and the outsole channel cut. This is done by hand and is pretty tricky work. I cut from the edge at a slight angle towards the insole. The channel flap is turned back and the outsole and welt will be stitched by hand at roughly 10spi. This close work is done with a "square awl" (not really square...the flat of the blade is perpendicular to the line of stitching). It cannot be done with a regular "sewing awl" (flat of blade in line with line of stitching." In the old traditions more was better and most really old shoes will be welt stitched at 16 to the inch or closer. Generally hand-twisted and hand waxed linen thread is used and the thread is tapered and twisted onto a boar's bristle...or some facsimile. Some makers have gone to steel bristles and some to nylon. I prefer the flexible bristles because they will turn a corner much easier than a steel bristle provided they are handled with a certain finesse and not forced. The blue tape is there to prevent the upper being imprinted by the awl as it is driven through the welt and into the sole. The channel is then closed and glued shut.(preferably with a glue that is at once water-resistant and not rubbery--all-purpose cements are not really satisfactory in this instance). Then the heel seat is pegged.as will be every layer of the heel stack. This next photo illustrates the scraping of the outsole. The discolorations you see above (from water staining) can often be removed with a light and tender scraping with a piece of broken glass. There is a trick/technique to breaking glass that will result in a curved edge every time. After scraping, the heel stack is added and the toplift and plug are prepared. You can purchase pre-made toplifts commercially but i have always believed in doing it myself and not spending the money on someone else's work...kind of like buying TV dinners when you have all the fixin's in the fridge. And finally the stains and dyes and waxes are applied to the outsole and heel and the plastic cover cut away. The shoe is polished and the last pulled. Voila!! Th-th-that's all folks!