HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

I tend to agree with Working Stiff with regard to the length of the jacket below (not to the "awfully" extent).

Originally Posted by Working Stiff

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This jacket looks awfully short for what is otherwise such a conservative outfit. Maybe with slimmer pants it would look OK, but here it looks off.



Orge's response:

Originally Posted by Orgetorix

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While it may appear short, it measures exactly right on me. The ideal length is half the distance from the collar to the floor, and that's what this is.

Is this a "rule" of some sort that I've never heard. And, if so, because of varying torso length/leg length ratios between people, that would negate the "just cover your seat" rule in many cases.


On the flip side, I agree with sugarbutch with regard to the fit of the suit below (including the jacket). Does this measure the same as the jacket you mentioned is the "ideal length"? It could be the camera angle/pose, but it appears a bit longer.

Originally Posted by sugarbutch

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Orge, IMO you should make a template from these trousers and get every pair you've got altered to mimic them. Maybe the jacket, too. You look about 15 lbs. lighter and 4 inches taller.

Nice fit, CTP. Slummin'?

Originally Posted by southbound35

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Is this a "rule" of some sort that I've never heard. And, if so, because of varying torso length/leg length ratios between people, that would negate the "just cover your seat" rule in many cases. On the flip side, I agree with sugarbutch with regard to the fit of the suit below (including the jacket). Does this measure the same as the jacket you mentioned is the "ideal length"? It could be the camera angle/pose, but it appears a bit longer.
The "rule" is something I've read several places, and it was the method I was trained to use when fitting for MTM suits at Brooks Brothers. Flusser says:

Two methods for determining the correct jacket length originated with America's development of ready-made men's clothing, which needed general guidelines upon which to establish its standards of fit. The first employs the arm as a guide: when your hand is dropped at your side, the bottom of the jacket is supposed to line up with the outstretched thumb. Though generally reliable, this formula has one drawback: arm length varies from person to person. The second approach measures the distance form the jackets back collar (at the point where it joins the coat's body) to the floor, then divided in half. This is the procedure taught in most tailoring schools. Either of these two approaches can be influenced by dimensions unique to the wearer; a top tailor will use neither, trusting his practiced eye to take in the whole picture before deciding on the jacket's ideal length.

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Not having a bespoke tailor, I use the latter method as a general guide. For me, it says 31" is the ideal BOC length, and I will deviate at least half an inch to either side of that measurement, depending on the coat. Regarding the two suits pictured above, the second is 1/4" longer than the first. I suspect the difference in appearance is due more to the second suit's overall slimmer silhouette than to any actual difference in length.

Originally Posted by acridsheep

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Nice fit, CTP. Slummin'?

Not sure I follow?

Originally Posted by Orgetorix

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The "rule" is something I've read several places, and it was the method I was trained to use when fitting for MTM suits at Brooks Brothers.

Flusser says:



Not having a bespoke tailor, I use the latter method as a general guide. For me, it says 31" is the ideal BOC length, and I will deviate at least half an inch to either side of that measurement, depending on the coat.

Regarding the two suits pictured above, the second is 1/4" longer than the first. I suspect the difference in appearance is due more to the second suit's overall slimmer silhouette than to any actual difference in length.

Useful info. Thanks for posting.

Apparently night shots are not something my camera is very good at.

Couldn't quite put my finger on yesterday's fit but it did make you look quite a bit slimmer. My arrangement of side by side might help me , and others, see why. Coat length helps... button position...slimmer trousers... sometimes it is just the picture, i.e. head included (?). Regardless, use that suit for important times or to talk to tailor about creating other fits. Nice suit my man!

Originally Posted by ctp120

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Like the fit but I would have chosen a different tie myself as it blends into the jacket, just my opinion though.

Nice stuff everybody.

I need advice, is this jacket fit alright? Besides the sleeves needing + length and the waist tapered? Its a 40r, should I try 39r?

It is a new BB fitzgerald sport coat.

Originally Posted by Threadbearer

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...Maybe later. First I'm going to try to sell him some used ties...
Please don't hurt me.

Originally Posted by gnatty8

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@ Digmenow, you might start by breaking up the monochromatic thing you've got going on here. A tie with some color would have helped this fit a great deal. Oh yeah, I am not digging that tie at all, it looks like you may have purchased it in the 80s, which is was not a very good period of time in mainstream men's clothing. If you lurk here a while, post fits and develop a thick skin, you can probably turn things up a notch in pretty short order. However, the two fits you've posted lately seem to evolve around earth tones of the tan and brown varieties, which is fine, but require something, like a colorful shirt or tie, to rescue from mediocrity. ....
I've discovered thrifting and the tie (Fratelli Moda) was purchased last week for $2 US. It was my first Italian silk tie find but no big loss. I've since learned there are plenty more out there and that I just need to be patient. As to the colors and fits, the first two efforts did have an '80's vibe due to the rescued sport coats but as I said, I gotta start somewhere and I'm pretty sure if I ask advice, I won't cry when I get it. Here's today's effort. Four months ago, I aspired to own something from Joseph A. Banks which I mistakenly thought was the pinnacle of men's fashion. I settled instead for this $150 L/RL not knowing any better. That said, had I dropped a thou at JAB and then come here, I'd be pissed! The shirt is BB Tie is Zenga Shoes are older Florsheims that will tide me over until I stumble across my first pair of Aldens. What I am most interested in is the fit of this suit. I had it fitted by the Russian woman who does the alterations at the big box clothing outlet I purchased it at. They also feature the Steve Harvey line. That should have tipped me off, I suppose. Did she do well by me or should I continue to hunt for someone more competent.

Originally Posted by Orgetorix

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The "rule" is something I've read several places, and it was the method I was trained to use when fitting for MTM suits at Brooks Brothers.

..

Interesting. Thanks for the response.