Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Originally Posted by banis

Click to expand...

Is it fully bespoke shoe or a modified RTW last? I am wondering because on the last besides of your surname (in Russian it is name of a vegetable) is also indicated number 42 (I suppose it is your size?).
The number indicates the base size of the raw last from which the bespoke last is then made, about all bespoke shoe makers use them with very very few exceptions and it's how bespoke works. I think in one of the photos on the Delos website you can see how he works on a large block of wood (I dont see any benefits from carving and shaping a cubic block compared to carving and shaping something that requires a bit less of carpenter work). I think Bengal Stripe can educate us here better than I though. Ugolini makes only bespoke, there was no last or something to try on, it was made according to my instructions/imaginations. The modification of rtw lasts is often quite limited, Saint Crispin's for example does it on request, but only at the instep and toebox and of course they wont do anything with the shape... Btw. I know bespoke clients who want to see a 41 on their lasts because they are convinced that it's their size. Shoe maker has to order whatever raw last he needs (it's 2 sizes different or so) for that client with a stamped 41. Point.

Originally Posted by Northampton Novice

Click to expand...

However after only walking around with them for about 10 minutes one of the shoes already looks like this, is it something to be worried about? The creasing looks weird.

Not sure, I've seen a few pairs of these they are made by Magnanni and they have a natural tendency to do this. To the touch the leather feels dry.The finish of the shoes appears to dry out the leather which becomes very thirsty - so creaming/conditioning is needed excessively.

It's not good.

Perhaps others can share some advice on this.

There seems to be a fine line between a finish which gets dried out somewhat & exhibits some "cracking", and LEATHER that cracks. I remember that Ron Rider wrote that he uses up to 15 layers (or more) of dye when he puts a finish on a pair of shoes. That dye really penetrates the leather, and as long as the leather doesn't dry out, the finish never cracks.

I've seen MANY a pair of Berluti's with "finish cracking". Now whether this is because it's a "polish finish", or whether simply not enough layers were used to really allow the dye to penetrate, I can't tell you.

Some leather just seems to be more "fragile" and requires more "care" than others. I can't say definitively if this means the leather is inferior, but it would PISS ME OFF to pay $1K+ and have the leather crack. I've seen a VERY large number of JM Westons that seem to crack exactly where your creases are beginning to show. Can't say why, however.

FINALLY, I must say that your pics dismay me somewhat. I'm sure there are a ton of EG "apologists" out there who would say I'm crazy (they already did in a different post), but yours is now 4th (or 5th) set of pics I've seen in a month that shows what MAy be the first stage of cracking in a pair of EG's.

Originally Posted by isshinryu101

Click to expand...

...
I don't see any cracks in the leather. Those shoes look like they have a high gloss finish, and the finish is cracking. That would happen on any shoes.

Picked these up off of Fstyles and added a bit of amateur antiquing to them.

Mmmm.... turnips ....

Originally Posted by rebel222

Click to expand...

I don't see any cracks in the leather. Those shoes look like they have a high gloss finish, and the finish is cracking. That would happen on any shoes.

+1. Those are cracks in the finish at the point where the leather creases.

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Click to expand...

Mmmm.... turnips ....

Is that a sign of approval?

Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire

Click to expand...

The number indicates the base size of the raw last.

actually this, more or less.

Originally Posted by isshinryu101

Click to expand...

There seems to be a fine line between a finish which gets dried out somewhat & exhibits some "cracking", and LEATHER that cracks. I remember that Ron Rider wrote that he uses up to 15 layers (or more) of dye when he puts a finish on a pair of shoes. That dye really penetrates the leather, and as long as the leather doesn't dry out, the finish never cracks.

I've seen MANY a pair of Berluti's with "finish cracking". Now whether this is because it's a "polish finish", or whether simply not enough layers were used to really allow the dye to penetrate, I can't tell you.

Some leather just seems to be more "fragile" and requires more "care" than others. I can't say definitively if this means the leather is inferior, but it would PISS ME OFF to pay $1K+ and have the leather crack. I've seen a VERY large number of JM Westons that seem to crack exactly where your creases are beginning to show. Can't say why, however.

FINALLY, I must say that your pics dismay me somewhat. I'm sure there are a ton of EG "apologists" out there who would say I'm crazy (they already did in a different post), but yours is now 4th (or 5th) set of pics I've seen in a month that shows what MAy be the first stage of cracking in a pair of EG's.

Thanks for the info. They are not EG's though but howard yount. And also if its just the finishing cracking I suppose its no big deal and that some conditioner or shoe cream would fix it.

Received these in the mail today and just gave them a quick spit-shine. I got them off of B&S a couple weeks ago

Originally Posted by isshinryu101

Click to expand...

A Testoni (Amedio Testoni line) calf & croc split toes. Again, not your everyday SF Shoe Appreciation pics, but perfect for a job interview or funeral!

Holy cow!
that's some norweger going on right there I'd love to see more - no offence to sensitivities of the anti-gunboat people

Those look great.

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Click to expand...

...

Originally Posted by SpooPoker

Click to expand...

lookin' good moo... i love me some shoe drama