contrarycomet
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- Thread starter pvrhye
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pvrhye
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What about a ranking of the difficulty/price for different tailoring jobs, so that when people buy RTW suits they know what needs to be bang on and what can be altered later? For example, some of the most intensive jobs I know of:Originally Posted by Wayward
- anything with shoulders
- correcting sleeve pitch
- altering sleeve lengths w/ surgeon's cuffs
- lengthening/shortening jacket
Much easier/cheaper jobs:
- adjusting pants waist or seat
- altering sleeve length without surgeon's cuffs
- reshaping the back of collar to sit flush with your neck
Just off the top of my head. Others care to develop this?
I'd be more or less talking out of ****** on the subject. Start a new thread about the topic though and I'd be happy to link it.
Cant kill da Rooster
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[Oxfords - Oxfords are referred to in different ways based on certain key features.Originally Posted by pvrhye
If the laces appear to be overlaid over the upper it's called a Derby or blucher. If they're divided only by a seam, it's called a balmoral.
If I am reading this right, it is incorrect. A balmoral and oxford are the same thing. A blucher is not a type of oxford.
radicaldog
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If I am reading this right, it is incorrect. A balmoral and oxford are the same thing. A blucher is not a type of oxford.Originally Posted by Cant kill da Rooster
Correct. Balmoral (US) = Oxford (UK) = closed lacing. Blucher (US) = Derby (UK) = open lacing. It's just that in the US some people use 'Oxford' for all laced shoes. Edit that and please pin this thread.
Cant kill da Rooster
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Bloody Americans.
pvrhye
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Correct. Balmoral (US) = Oxford (UK) = closed lacing. Blucher (US) = Derby (UK) = open lacing. It's just that in the US some people use 'Oxford' for all laced shoes. Edit that and please pin this thread.Originally Posted by radicaldog
[
B]Lace-ups[/b] - Lace-ups are referred to in different ways based on certain key features.
If the laces appear to be overlaid over the upper it's called a derby or blucher. If they're divided only by a seam, it's called a balmoral or oxford. The toes can be a plain continuous piece of leather (plaintoe), have a separate cap over them (captoes) or a different kind of cap that forms a sweeping W shape (wingtip). Decorative holes punched in the leather are call broguing. If the wingtip circles entirely around the shoe, it's called a longwing.
Lace-ups sound like a better heading?
pvrhye
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A list of fabric patterns (gingham, herringbone etc.) - with descriptions or pictures - may be helpful.Originally Posted by joneog
That seems like the kind of thing that would need a slough of pictures to accomplish, so I think it's probably best saved for another thread. Make such a thread and I'll add the link.
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