The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

Cravate_Noire · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by whnay.

I agree - what bespoke should be.

+1

sammy · Mar 12, 2011

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Yea, it was a long wait, but well worth it. There were some fit issues with the first trial pair. Rather than try to adjust the pair, they decided to scrap them and start over. I'm glad they did because the fit is sublime. Dominic Casey, the Cleverley rep who visits DC, said that monks are a tricky style to fit. Since there are no laces, the strap placement across the instep has to be just right. There is no room for error. I think this is my "one shoe to rule them all". I plan on ordering a few more pairs in various colors and hides.

Fishball · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by sammy

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Yea, it was a long wait, but well worth it. There were some fit issues with the first trial pair. Rather than try to adjust the pair, they decided to scrap them and start over. I'm glad they did because the fit is sublime. Dominic Casey, the Cleverley rep who visits DC, said that monks are a tricky style to fit. Since there are no laces, the strap placement across the instep has to be just right. There is no room for error. I think this is my "one shoe to rule them all". I plan on ordering a few more pairs in various colors and hides.

But from the photos, it look like the buckle was sewn on an elastic band, so it have some "room" for error. Not like my bespoke monk buckle was sewn on leather, really no room for error. Anyway, the shoe look great!

Michael Ay329 · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by sammy

Dominic Casey, the Cleverley rep who visits DC, said that monks are a tricky style to fit. Since there are no laces, the strap placement across the instep has to be just right. There is no room for error.

Sammy I really liked the design

My first bespoke commission with Clifford Roberts was also a monk strap...and Clifford noted the exact opposite of what Dominic Casey said...since the strap has 3 hole placements, it provides greater flexibility on how it fits over one's instep.

Fishball · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Sammy I really liked the design

My first bespoke commission with Clifford Roberts was also a monk strap...and Clifford noted the exact opposite of what Dominic Casey said...since the strap has 3 hole placements, it provides greater flexibility on how it fits over one's instep.

Mike,
I will tell you Casey is right. It is not just the 3 hole placements, it also involved the angle.

By the way, I just realize it was a pair of whole cut monk like JL Vale, I'm trying to make one pair for myself.

sammy · Mar 12, 2011

My strap has only one hole for buckle. Yes, there is an elastic band on the buckle. But as Fishball said, its the placement angle of the strap across the instep that counts.

jamaican · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Balmoral and adelaide are not synonymous.

I never said, or suggested that they were. The English sense of the word "Balmoral" speaks of the galosh line type shoe. I understand that the US term "Balmoral" is often used to denote the closed lace or "Oxford" shoe type... In the post to which you refer, I say that I am speaking using the English term. Adelade speaks of the (usually) U-shaped throat on an oxford shoe. In the way used I think I am correct. Therefore the brown Balmoral/galosh that Tony is wearing in one Leoffot pic, and the "reverse Balmoral" in the "G&G Magic" are contrasted with the black Adelaide "next commission" shoe for Gazman.

J

Slewfoot · Mar 12, 2011

Sammy - fantastic stuff! I love that style of shoe as the EG Oundle is one of my favorite RTW models. Wear them well!

sammy · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Sammy - fantastic stuff! I love that style of shoe as the EG Oundle is one of my favorite RTW models. Wear them well!

Thank you, Slewfoot. Yes, the shoes were inspired by the Oundle, which is one my favorite models as well.

bengal-stripe · Mar 12, 2011

Originally Posted by Fishball

.....it look like the buckle was sewn on an elastic band, so it have some "room" for error. Not like my bespoke monk buckle was sewn on leather.....

Originally Posted by sammy

Yes, there is an elastic band on the buckle.

The elastic which holds the buckle isn't used to help with fitting problems, but to ease closing the buckle.

With any buckle you need a couple of millimetres extra to get the prong into the hole. After you've passed that nadir, the prong slots into it's position. In a belt there is no problem: you just hold in your tummy for a second. There is nothing provided by nature to decrease the instep of your foot just for a second.

That's where the elastic comes in: you pull it, to get the prong into the hole with ease.

fritzl · Mar 13, 2011

Originally Posted by sammy

My strap has only one hole for buckle. Yes, there is an elastic band on the buckle. But as Fishball said, its the placement angle of the strap across the instep that counts.

i have close to no personal experience with monk architecture, i cannot imagine it is too much of a miracle, though.

the one hole concept is umm err, yes a rather brave decision. taking in account it will be your one foo for future commissions.

Fishball · Mar 13, 2011

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

The elastic which holds the buckle isn't used to help with fitting problems, but to ease closing the buckle.

With any buckle you need a couple of millimetres extra to get the prong into the hole. After you've passed that nadir, the prong slots into it's position. In a belt there is no problem: you just hold in your tummy for a second. There is nothing provided by nature to decrease the instep of your foot just for a second.

That's where the elastic comes in: you pull it, to get the prong into the hole with ease.

Although I agree that elastic make closing more easy, I don't think non elastic can cause closing problem. I have two monks using leather to fix the buckle, it is hard to close, but the flesh still have some "give." and it look better than elastic.

The elasctc do give some "room" for error if the angle off a bit. Why I know? because I have a pair!

ajv · Mar 16, 2011

Just a little teaser......Rest will follow....

Xposted in this thread, in which I will add many more pictures :

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...88#post4241588

Adrian

HORNS · Mar 16, 2011

Originally Posted by sammy

From what I've seen, no one does heels like Cleverly.
These are beautiful shoes.

ajv · Mar 16, 2011

And the final product :

rest of the pics here : http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...07#post4243307

Adrian

The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

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