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I'm 140 9%. By the tape measure I'm an Italian 50 jacket but some brands are cut slim and I need a 52. I've got a 52 overcoat that is cut so close in the shoulders I can only wear it with a light sweater.
Middle-aged men tend to do better with casual shirts that have patterns.
Nicola, just because you have the proportions of a cartoon character does not mean people who are 6' and 170 are chunky. It is impossible to determine body composition based on two variables.
Why? I am curious how this could be. I would say that bad patterns characterize a lot of casual wear -- at least the stuff we most often see. My theory is that designers think in terms of sets -- how will all these shirts look together in the catalog -- and so build around a favorite thing or two they want to make, with contrasting (or complementing) colors and scale. As if they think they have to get some pink and lavender and coffee into the picture, and there really needs to be something with a bigger scale, so they make a fugly shirt with those colors in a huge check. And call it a day. And then it goes to clearance. And the people who get the most wear out of their clothes -- almost never buy anything, and only buy clearance -- wear the fugly shirt often for eight years. And the rest of us have to look at it. This is why I would never steer someone who asks the internet for help picking clothes, toward patterns. Apparently it is not that easy to pick a good one.
In my book that pic of CG having a picnic on the hotel room floor is a black and white photo but his shirt looks solid white. There is another pic of him with what looks like a navy blazer and a navy small chech gingham shirt which looks class.
My 40-ish rule would be: WWJBD (What Would James Bond Do?)