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I have a pair of calf-skin pumps.
I like to think of pumps as a bit of a F-U to contemporary convention.
The rule about wearing patent leather with black tie is one of the rules I break. I agree that patent leather is the traditional choice. However, for some reason, I just can't bring myself to wear patent leather shoes. To my eye, they look cheap (even the nice ones.)
I know it is wrong, but I wear some very high polished AE park avenues with my DJ.
another bump.
The rule about wearing patent leather with black tie is one of the rules I break.
Traditionally, evening pumps were calf or patent, lace-up shoes (always plain-toe oxfords; a blucher is seriously not right for a formal shoe) were patent. You can indeed wear the pump with white tie. Some authorities consider it to be required, or at least prefered, because it is a vestige of court dress, and therefore the most formal shoe in a man's arsenel.
How traditional is patent leather? Isn't it a fairly modern material?
late 19th century. 1860s maybe? originally coated with linseed oil, now coated with plastic.