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Buying a Tux

stubloom

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If your'e going to buy a tux, you'll probably clean it before you put it away for the season. If you do clean it, a word of caution: Most dry cleaners haven't got a clue how to press a tuxedo jacket after cleaning. Almost every tuxedo brought in, picked up or sent in by a NEW client is "damaged" to some degree or another. I see tuxedo jackets with shine, seam impressions, hard pressing and, most of all, satin or polyester lapels that have been melted or burnt by an iron. Never allow a dry cleaner to machine press your tuxedo. And when they do hand press the jacket, make sure that they adjust the iron temperature when transitioning from the wool to the satin or polyester. Blog post: So your cleaner ruined your tuxedo http://ravefabricare.com/true-qualit...ur-tuxedo.aspx
 
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I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

  • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

  • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.
 

TimelesStyle

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Originally Posted by delavegatailors
I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

  • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

  • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.


Only thing to add is make sure the tie matches the lapel/trouser facings.
 

pvrhye

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Originally Posted by delavegatailors
I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

  • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

  • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.


There's a good argument for no pockets on the trousers, so if you see them that way don't worry about it. Ideally they're the kind of trousers that are cut for braces and not one of the velted things that a certain James Bond has been sporting lately.
 

tgt465

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Originally Posted by delavegatailors
I would recommend the classic and timeless tuxedo style. You will always be right with this combination:

  • TUXEDO JACKET: -Single breasted / -One button / -Peaked lapel / -No back vents

  • TUXEDO PANTS: -No front pleats / -Straight pockets (more formal than slanted) / No cuffs (of course!!!)

Regarding the shirt, I also suggest turndown collar, and YES, you need to go with French cuffs. You will need a black silk bowtie and a cummerbund. Black oxford shoes will complete the outfit.


Pleated pants are more classic than non-pleated.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by tgt465
Pleated pants are more classic than non-pleated.

I don't think they're more classic. Black Tie Guide says they are 'the dressiest option', but that's not quite the same thing. Personally I'd avoid double pleats on tuxedo trousers but a small single pleat can look nice.
 

autospy

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Originally Posted by Bounder
Well, JAB is always having some sort of sale.

During the JAB sales, this tux usually goes for 60% off -- $318.
 

TimelesStyle

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Originally Posted by stubloom
If your'e going to buy a tux, you'll probably clean it before you put it away for the season.

If you do clean it, a word of caution: Most dry cleaners haven't got a clue how to press a tuxedo jacket after cleaning. Almost every tuxedo brought in, picked up or sent in by a NEW client is "damaged" to some degree or another. I see tuxedo jackets with shine, seam impressions, hard pressing and, most of all, satin or polyester lapels that have been melted or burnt by an iron.

Never allow a dry cleaner to machine press your tuxedo. And when they do hand press the jacket, make sure that they adjust the iron temperature when transitioning from the wool to the satin or polyester.

Blog post: So your cleaner ruined your tuxedo
http://ravefabricare.com/true-qualit...ur-tuxedo.aspx


Is there something else besides the lapel facings/trouser stripes that makes pressing a tux different?

Also, as an aside, how do you iron/press the peaks on peak lapel jackets so they don't curl over a bit (almost like rabbit ears, lol)? Is the best solution just to have a tailor add an extra thread to secure it to the collar?
 

TimelesStyle

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Originally Posted by pvrhye
Flat front brace-cut trousers sound odd to me.

Well, not all tuxedo-wearing men like their trousers as high-waisted as brace-specific trousers would likely be. I, for one, fall into that category. Besides, what does it matter, braces are seen less on your tux than on any other garment, and in fact great effort is often made to hide them (like wearing white ones or using a waistcoat instead of a cummerbund.

Also, let's be honest: unless one is going truly bespoke, a tux maker is going to base their tuxes on the same silhouettes as their suits and the vast majority of OTR/MTM suits aren't designed specifically for braces.

Perhaps for those men preferring lower trousers there should be more of a movement by tux makers to incorporate side tabs instead of braces.
 

Ianiceman

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Loads of people advocate wearing black calf oxfords with a tux. If you have the budget then make the effort with the shoes too.

You are wearing a suit, shirt, (bow)tie, studs, links and braces that you don't wear on any other day, but you're gonna pair all that with the shoes you wore to the office last Wednesday? Naaah.

I kicked this around for a while and eventually got some patent leather lace ups. Might not be full welt quality but they will only be worn a couple of times a year. I also like the way the shiney patent is reflected in shiney satin trouser stripe, lapels and bow tie (and black silk braces too although they aren't seen), along with shiney black studs and cufflinks. you can debate weather to go for the pumps, slip ons, oxfords or derbies but make an effort so your shoes match the elegance of your clothes.
 

TimelesStyle

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Originally Posted by Ianiceman
Loads of people advocate wearing black calf oxfords with a tux. If you have the budget then make the effort with the shoes too.

You are wearing a suit, shirt, (bow)tie, studs, links and braces that you don't wear on any other day, but you're gonna pair all that with the shoes you wore to the office last Wednesday? Naaah.

I kicked this around for a while and eventually got some patent leather lace ups. Might not be full welt quality but they will only be worn a couple of times a year. I also like the way the shiney patent is reflected in shiney satin trouser stripe, lapels and bow tie (and black silk braces too although they aren't seen), along with shiney black studs and cufflinks. you can debate weather to go for the pumps, slip ons, oxfords or derbies but make an effort so your shoes match the elegance of your clothes.


For me it's not a budgetary consideration, I just really dislike the look of patent leather and would never wear a shoe with a bow on it. What I really want is a wholecut slip-on, something that has the shape of a dress slipper, but is in leather.
 

bleachboy

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Originally Posted by LennonMcCartney
Are Brooks Brothers Tuxedos worthwhile?

I bet the Golden Fleece one is in-*******-credible. My formal shirt is Golden Fleece and it is one of the nicest shirts I've ever seen, and I have seen a LOT of really nice shirts.
 

TimelesStyle

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Originally Posted by bleachboy
I bet the Golden Fleece one is in-*******-credible.

I highly, highly doubt that... Considering this line of tuxes rarely goes on sale, and when it does it's usually a deal for buying two of them, you can do soooo much better for the $1,600 BB charges if you don't need it tomorrow.

My Zegna was $1k at the outlet, eHaberdasher has a Brioni (granted it's size 48 US) for $1,900 and when the annual sales happen, I've seen RL with RLPL tuxes as low as $2k.

That's not to say the BB isn't a nice tux (though for their supposed top line, at the very least you still have to have the pocket flaps removed. But I digress...), but nothing about the tux or the value for the money screams "in-*******-credible" to me.
 

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