Cashmere blend ready made coat vs. taylor-made

awasaby · Feb 13, 2011

Hi, there!

Buying myself a coat and got few questions here:

1) dillema - to buy a ready made or go taylor made coat.
saw a really nice 2-button 50%wool 50% cashmere black half coat, great one, but slightly tight, and that's largest they got. Really cool lining with amebas and nice pockets too. Only thing is it is 2 button one, and i wanted 3 button. On the other hand, i'm rather short would the number of buttons really matter?

2) if i go taylor made which would be better: cashmere, angora or blend (look and practicality)?

3) is there a way to distinguish between them, because just trusting taylor 's words seems not enough.

4) would be $400 ~ $500 for cashmere taylor-made half-coat too much?

Any suggestion will be very much appreciated!

Nicola · Feb 13, 2011

You're not going to get much of a MTM jacket for $500. Going with a more expensive fabric like cashmere will only make it tougher .

westinghouse · Feb 13, 2011

Who is Taylor?

awasaby · Feb 13, 2011

Originally Posted by westinghouse

Who is Taylor?
my tailor ;-)

Harold falcon · Feb 13, 2011

Originally Posted by awasaby

Hi, there!

Buying myself a coat and got few questions here:

1) dillema - to buy a ready made or go taylor made coat.
saw a really nice 2-button 50%wool 50% cashmere black half coat, great one, but slightly tight, and that's largest they got. Really cool lining with amebas and nice pockets too. Only thing is it is 2 button one, and i wanted 3 button. On the other hand, i'm rather short would the number of buttons really matter?

If the RTW version is "slightly tight" then don't buy it. Fit of the coat is important. If it doesn't fit you, then you won't wear it anyway.

2 or 3 button is entirely your preference and what looks better on you.

Reconsider black.

What are "amebas"?

2) if i go taylor made which would be better: cashmere, angora or blend (look and practicality)?

Depends. Angora is generally softer but sheds a lot more than cashmere. I don't think angora would be a particularly practical blazer. Cashmere might also be too delicate for a coat. A cashmere/wool blend would probably be your best bet.

3) is there a way to distinguish between them, because just trusting taylor 's words seems not enough.

If you don't trust your tailor's word about the material then you shouldn't be going to that tailor. Trust is something built up over time, so consider starting with smaller jobs. Maybe have some shirts made to start.

4) would be $400 ~ $500 for cashmere taylor-made half-coat too much?

As Nicola said, $500 is actually quite low for a bespoke coat.

What is a "half-coat"? Do you mean half-canvassed?

awasaby · Feb 13, 2011

The question is how tight would be tight? Would it be enough for me to be able to drive (i guess i can take the coat off anytime) or would it be considered too loose? My hunch is should sit well with a suit on. or is it oo much for overcoat?

I'd like to get get something slim-fit type, so I guess again, 2 vs 3 buttons and black is to give that contrast on the overall look.

if not black then gray? hmm... black is classic.

amebas are a decor on internal lining, looks cool, but only when you take coat off ;-)

half-coat = three quarters length

yes, cashmere is soft and lint goes off with time, then the blend is better - i agree. what proportion would be the best? 50-50 70-30 90-10?

i do trust the guy, did well on my tux. it's just knowing more gives me more choice, so is there anything i need to be aware of with cashmere?

thanks

ps. attached is kind of what i'm thinking of

Nicola · Feb 13, 2011

If you're asking about an overcoat then

1) Do you intend to wear this with a jacket underneath? If so it needs to be big enough to fit the jacket. If you don't intend to wear it with a jacket then it can be smaller.

2) Try it on dressed how you'd wear it.

3) What's your weather like? 2 button will leave more open space which is a negative if you've got really bad winter weather. Not a big problem in a milder zone.

4) I'm not sure what point a 10% coat is. Reminds of those things they do to up the price.

awasaby · Feb 13, 2011

1) I guess the overcoat will be used both ways, with and without jacket (sweater).

2) Yes, I'll have to try all options. But I'm still undecided wether to ge order to be made or get off the shelf.

3) currently the temperature is 15~18 F, sometimes gets close to 0.

4.) actually the lower percentage of cashmere in the fabric the cheaper it gets. so the 100% cashmere is the most expensive. the question still is if it has much of cashmere is it less strong and less durable versus cashmere and wool blend?

Nicola · Feb 13, 2011

Often the point of 10% cashmere is to charge more then 100% wool. Even if the wool is higher quality.

alliswell · Feb 13, 2011

Originally Posted by awasaby

amebas are ...

We call the pattern "paisley", even if it does look like paramecia.

awasaby · Feb 14, 2011

Thanks for the insights. Very educative.

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