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The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

Naturlaut II

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Originally Posted by luk-cha
just thinking out loud

what do you guys think of this, i am in 2 minds whether to order this next it is a triple welted norwegian, this is in russian raindeer mine would be in kudu


Tony said this is a lot harder to make than their regular shoes and very rare nowadays

are these a step too far or just frigging awesome?


Could be cool, but I feel like a more grainy leather is called for.
 

iyorito

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My God frizl you really not like us don't you?!
fight[1].gif
Just kidding mate! People have preferences. What do you reckon about Rudolf Sheer and Sohne? Would you please tell me a little about what you know about their shoes?

Thanks a million!

Kind regards,

Masaichi Hasegawa
Director, Gaziano and Girling Limited
Founding Partner
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by iyorito
My God fritzl you really not like us don't you?!
fight[1].gif
Just kidding mate! People have preferences.


luk-cha introduced me to g&g, when your brand was launched back in the days. i have to admit that i struggled a bit with some of the fancier designs. in general, the typical english style e.g. chisel toe doesn't appael to me. as you said: just a preference.

lc gave me a lot of insight to the brand and the persons behind. especially tony. there's no doubt about the craftmenship and dedication to shoemaking. so i can appreciate the shoes under the quality aspect. big bonus points.

Originally Posted by iyorito
What do you reckon about Rudolf Sheer and Sohne? Would you please tell me a little about what you know about their shoes?

Thanks a million!

Kind regards,

Masaichi Hasegawa
Director, Gaziano and Girling Limited
Founding Partner


when you talk about vienna and the tradition of shoemaking scheer automatically appears on the radar. some of the shoemakers who run their own workshop today have been trained there. the shoes are marvellous and you can identify a signature style. they are probably the most refined examples you find in vienna.

next time eddie(medtech expat) is in town, we should pay them a visit. although e. is pretty much sold to saint crispins, who are also very successful in japan.

if you have more questions, just ask. i'll be happy to give you assistance.
 

ajv

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Originally Posted by luk-cha
just thinking out loud

what do you guys think of this, i am in 2 minds whether to order this next it is a triple welted norwegian, this is in russian raindeer mine would be in kudu

DSCN1072.jpg

close up of the welt

DSCN0998-1.jpg

Tony said this is a lot harder to make than their regular shoes and very rare nowadays

are these a step too far or just frigging awesome?


I agree with the difficulty, but to me this looks more like a triple sole than a triple norwegian.
And yes unless worn in rough weather conditions with some cords they look a bit too far. And even in bad weather I would much more like a boot version which is more efficient to me.

Adrian
 

luk-cha

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Originally Posted by fritzl
like them better without the triple.

Originally Posted by gazman70k
Too much I think. It reminds me of some of the whackier designs that Stefano Branchini was doing 6 years ago.

Originally Posted by gshen
+1. too gimmicky!

Originally Posted by Groover
I really like the style Luk-Cha, just without the triple welt. My preference would be a double leather sole with a storm welt

Originally Posted by TheWraith
Yeah, it's too much I feel.

thanks guys for your feedback i admit the are very in your face, whether they are gimmicky i think that this is a personal thing, i always feel thing that are gimmicky serve no purpose

TG said that this was the traditional method for English makers to add extra weather proofing to shoes before machine were made for storm welting it even predates English makers doing norwegian welts too

Originally Posted by Naturlaut II
Could be cool, but I feel like a more grainy leather is called for.

hello buddy!

i was thinking or the inspiration was these

BSNORWEGIANMONK.jpg

BSEGDOVER.jpg

but the suggestion for the triple welt was from TG i would do a skin which is closer to the monk which is also Kudu i have a sample of the skin and there is a lot of grain to it, so it should look better IMO

Originally Posted by ajv
I agree with the difficulty, but to me this looks more like a triple sole than a triple norwegian.
And yes unless worn in rough weather conditions with some cords they look a bit too far. And even in bad weather I would much more like a boot version which is more efficient to me.

Adrian


i dont think it is made in the same way as a norwegian welt, but i will ask Tony for a breakdown of how it differs, i see you point with the boot, but i dont do boots
 

poorsod

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Originally Posted by luk-cha
just thinking out loud

Tony said this is a lot harder to make than their regular shoes and very rare nowadays

are these a step too far or just frigging awesome?


The triple welt looks more like a Weston Demi chasse type shoe. The Norwegian monkstrap in kudu looks to be a storm welt which I think is the better way to go.

BTW the kudu samples that Tony has does not do the skin justice, the real skin is so much better. The samples may be the edges of the skin which are not used.
 

iyorito

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fritzl,

I've got to go to Vienna and check it out in person.....May be I will pay a visit in September.......

Thanks mate!
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by iyorito
fritzl,

I've got to go to Vienna and check it out in person.....May be I will pay a visit in September.......

Thanks mate!


excellent. please let me know as soon as you're scheduled.
 

luk-cha

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Originally Posted by poorsod
The triple welt looks more like a Weston Demi chasse type shoe. The Norwegian monkstrap in kudu looks to be a storm welt which I think is the better way to go.

BTW the kudu samples that Tony has does not do the skin justice, the real skin is so much better. The samples may be the edges of the skin which are not used.


yes he sent me quite a big peice so i know the color and the quality, i really love it it should make a great norweigan

i think it is storm welted it is alot more refined like most have pointed out but there is not alot of fun with it thro

didn'y you get kudu? if so any updated pictures of them worn in a little?
 

poorsod

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Originally Posted by luk-cha
yes he sent me quite a big peice so i know the color and the quality, i really love it it should make a great norweigan i think it is storm welted it is alot more refined like most have pointed out but there is not alot of fun with it thro didn'y you get kudu? if so any updated pictures of them worn in a little?
This is from a month or two ago.
kudu1.jpg
kudu3.jpg
First pic is outside without flash. Second is inside with flash. It is tough to capture the complex color of the kudu leather. I don't have pictures of the fitting, but the shoe was much lighter and I think Tony has to color it. Cleverley has a mountain goat leather which is pretty much similar, if not the same. For those of you who don't want kudu, G&G's "English Grain" calf leather has a similar look. English Grain is also available as MTO (for those not willing to pay bespoke prices) while kudu is not. Another idea is to make a lazy man norwegian derby with side gussets. I only thought about this after I had gotten my shoes. But if you take your shoes of before coming into the house, the side gussets are quite convenient - particularly if you have to come in and out of the house often.
 

luk-cha

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Originally Posted by poorsod
This is from a month or two ago.

kudu1.jpg


kudu3.jpg


First pic is outside without flash. Second is inside with flash. It is tough to capture the complex color of the kudu leather. I don't have pictures of the fitting, but the shoe was much lighter and I think Tony has to color it. Cleverley has a mountain goat leather which is pretty much similar, if not the same.

For those of you who don't want kudu, G&G's "English Grain" calf leather has a similar look. English Grain is also available as MTO (for those not willing to pay bespoke prices) while kudu is not.

Another idea is to make a lazy man norwegian derby with side gussets. I only thought about this after I had gotten my shoes. But if you take your shoes of before coming into the house, the side gussets are quite convenient - particularly if you have to come in and out of the house often.


cool thanks for these they look like they are wearing in lovely

if you have time could you take some close up pictures of the vamp and welt with you wearing them please i wouls love to get a better close up of how they are wearing in

also i think G&G also have the mountain ram too IIRC along with hippo too
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by poorsod
kudu1.jpg


kudu3.jpg


the structure of the leather + the colour is very tempting...
 

Naturlaut II

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Originally Posted by luk-cha

hello buddy!

i was thinking or the inspiration was these

BSNORWEGIANMONK.jpg

BSEGDOVER.jpg

but the suggestion for the triple welt was from TG i would do a skin which is closer to the monk which is also Kudu i have a sample of the skin and there is a lot of grain to it, so it should look better IMO



i dont think it is made in the same way as a norwegian welt, but i will ask Tony for a breakdown of how it differs, i see you point with the boot, but i dont do boots


Hey there! Just got to HK for some concerts here. If you're in town maybe we can put together a little gathering.

I do like the shoe. I always think that the kind of welt used has to be somehow balanced by the skin: heavier the welt, heavier (in texture) the skin. However, it's a very nice shoe, and would probably look nicer in person.
 

luk-cha

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Originally Posted by Naturlaut II
Hey there! Just got to HK for some concerts here. If you're in town maybe we can put together a little gathering.

I do like the shoe. I always think that the kind of welt used has to be somehow balanced by the skin: heavier the welt, heavier (in texture) the skin. However, it's a very nice shoe, and would probably look nicer in person.


yes let me know if we can arrange a lunch next week sometime

i agree with you on this i think the judu will loook much better than the RR, anyway i have another 6months to ponder on this

do you have any new BS shoe projects on the go?
 

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