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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Rugger

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Originally Posted by onix
Derby/Blücher are laced shoes with open lacing. example:

334monk_%7C_draycott.jpg


While oxford/balmoral have closed lacing, example:

235oxfordsconnaught.jpg



That's the only difference?
 

retozimmermann

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Originally Posted by onix
Yes.

While in the US there might not be a difference between a Blücher and a Derby in common language usage, there is definitely a difference in the original European terms.

It is true that both shoe types have open lacing as opposed to an Oxford with it's closed lacing, but they are not the same.

On a derby there is an Arch in the quarters that extends from the lacing down to the sole. Example:
Wiltshire_TG73.jpg


On a blücher, on the other hand, you have no such part. Like here:
Blucher_(Grenson).jpg


The whole Derby/Blucher confusion is similar to the the often unclear usage of Oxford and Balmoral, which are two different types of shoes as well but where the US-terminology doesn't seem to make this distinction.

Cheers
Reto
 

onix

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Originally Posted by retozimmermann
While in the US there might not be a difference between a Blücher and a Derby in common language usage, there is definitely a difference in the original European terms.

It is true that both shoe types have open lacing as opposed to an Oxford with it's closed lacing, but they are not the same.

On a derby there is an Arch in the quarters that extends from the lacing down to the sole. Example:
Wiltshire_TG73.jpg


On a blücher, on the other hand, you have no such part. Like here:
Blucher_(Grenson).jpg


The whole Derby/Blucher confusion is similar to the the often unclear usage of Oxford and Balmoral, which are two different types of shoes as well but where the US-terminology doesn't seem to make this distinction.

Cheers
Reto


Are you sure? I've never heard of such distinction. Both of these pairs are called "derby" by Alfred Sargent.

Browning1.jpg


Charlton1.jpg
 

Surreal

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What do you think about these suits. Both are Pierre Cardin and from wool.

This costs around $700:
photoxs.jpg


This was a bit cheaper, around $500, I think:
photo6w.jpg


Worth it?
 

IsteRed

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Hello,anybody knows where i can get MOP white buttons for blazer?i have a navy blazer that i wear mostly with white shirts and i think that changing to white buttons will look smoking hot,what would you say?
smile.gif
 

bleachboy

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Originally Posted by IsteRed
Hello,anybody knows where i can get MOP white buttons for blazer?i have a navy blazer that i wear mostly with white shirts and i think that changing to white buttons will look smoking hot,what would you say?
smile.gif

Right here.
 

easy_golfing

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Just curious, but are shoes from Nordstrom Rack original or are they "made for" as some of the clothes are?
 

dah328

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Originally Posted by easy_golfing
Just curious, but are shoes from Nordstrom Rack original or are they "made for" as some of the clothes are?
Some are definitely not made for Nordstrom Rack but there do appear to be some pretty low-end shoes there, too.
 

CHECKstar

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Just received a shirt in the mail from Modern Tailor that I will need to get adjusted at the waist - I am just going to take it to a local tailor to get darts put in. Question - should I launder it a few times beforehand for shrinkage and if so, how many times?
 

retozimmermann

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Originally Posted by onix
Are you sure? I've never heard of such distinction. Both of these pairs are called "derby" by Alfred Sargent.

That's interesting. I am quite certain but cannot find a good reference at the moment. But obviously there are a lot of sources who use the terms to mean the same.

I still think that this is not entirely correct because the two shoes which I would distinguish with the two terms are clearly different shoes with different uppers.

Does anyone have an expert opinion on this?

Cheers
Reto
 

onix

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Originally Posted by retozimmermann
That's interesting. I am quite certain but cannot find a good reference at the moment. But obviously there are a lot of sources who use the terms to mean the same.

I still think that this is not entirely correct because the two shoes which I would distinguish with the two terms are clearly different shoes with different uppers.

Does anyone have an expert opinion on this?

Cheers
Reto


I went to both John Lobb and Edward Green websites and their derby shoes include both types. Now, it is a possibility that there was such distinction before, but it now becomes obsolete. I don't entirely dismiss your opinion, just that I haven't heard of that before.
 

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