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Help with purchasing a tuxedo

B2theI

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Hi, all,

I'm new to Style Forum, and I was hoping to get some help in going about purchasing a tuxedo for my wedding this coming July. I'm finding it difficult to assess the best route to go, whether off-the-rack brand from a dept store vs made-to-measure of some sort.

I am a slim guy, and so fit is important to me since a lot of the off-the-rack stuff ends up being bulky on me. I've looked at some Z Zegna tuxes, and I do like the fit (thought I recognize that it is likely a "contemporary" type fit.) I also understand that the quality would not approach that of a true Zegna tux. This seems to be priced in the range of $1200-1300 alterations included.

Then there are some high-end clothiers which offer made-to-measure tuxedos, but my issue is that I have no idea how to assess the quality of these tuxes. One of the stores I've been to said that a MTM tux from them would run ~$800-900.

Of course there are also MTM options from Saks for Zegna/Armani which would run closer to $3000. Then there are online retailers from overseas like Indochino with tuxes for $400!

I should mention that my line of work is one that probably will not require many formal events in the future, and, as such, I am probably not interested in spending more than $2000 for this purchase.

My main issue is... I truly don't know where to look other than these places. There are so many websites out there that offer "bespoke" or "made-to-measure" options, but I have no clue how to assess the quality of these pieces or know whether its worth the investment.

Any help that you can provide would be so very much appreciated! Thank you!
 

B2theI

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I guess I should also mention that I'm looking for a pretty classic tuxedo: Black, 1-button, peak lapel, flat-fronts pants, likely with black or white bow-tie. Thanks!
 

Master Squirrel

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Originally Posted by B2theI
I am a slim guy, and so fit is important to me since a lot of the off-the-rack stuff ends up being bulky on me.
This should give you an answer.
I should mention that my line of work is one that probably will not require many formal events in the future,
Do not aim so low. And while my line of work only requires a tux about once a year, my social circle requires on 2-3 times a year.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by B2theI
likely with black or white bow-tie.

You should not be wearing a white bow-tie with a tuxedo. It's called 'black tie' for a reason.
 

ter1413

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Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum
You should not be wearing a white bow-tie with a tuxedo. It's called 'black tie' for a reason.

+1
 

saiyar1

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Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum
You should not be wearing a white bow-tie with a tuxedo. It's called 'black tie' for a reason.


It's for his wedding though. Its fine for a special occasion.
 

Mark from Plano

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Originally Posted by saiyar1
It's for his wedding though. Its fine for a special occasion.

No. It's really not.
 

TimelesStyle

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Try Ralph Lauren Black Label. Their tuxes retail for $2,150, but if you can find them at a department store you can always save 10-15% by opening a charge account. Fit is very slim (similar to Z-Z), quality is very good. Right now the do two one-button versions, a peak lapel and a shawl collar.

I would also call the Zegna outlet stores (there are four around the country, I believe) and see what they have. I picked up pretty much the exact tux you're looking for at one of their outlets, originally $2,500 down to $1k. Fit is a bit fuller than Z-Z/RLBL but I needed barely any alterations, just an inch in on the waist and a half inch on the seat. PM me and I can give you more details.
 

RogerC

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I know Gieves RTW usually doesn't get a lot of love on this forum, but they have a dark blue dinner suit that I quite like...

And indeed: black tie is black tie. Don't change a winning team.
 

Blackhood

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No one seems to be answering the question you actually asked.

Zenga/Armani are priced 60% becuase of the name. Thus a $2000 will be contructed roughly as well as an $800 no-name brand.

MTM is priced about 30% on name, so a $2000 MTM (not from a "designer") will be about as good as a $1400 no-name suit.

If you want to find out the quality of MTM then speak to them about construction; is it canvased, will it have working cuffs, who makes the fabrics, how many fittings do they do?

Unless you find an amazing fit, MTM is almost always better value than OTR.
 

ter1413

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Originally Posted by saiyar1
It's for his wedding though. Its fine for a special occasion.

Negative...But thanks for playing!
 

Unregistered

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Having had used Indochino and seen the quality of their work, I'd say it's worth a try.

2 things to keep in mind though with Indochino

1. Can't expect the first (or indeed 2nd) try to be perfect. It will likely take a remake or two and some tailoring, but they really are good with reimbursing you for the amount spent on tailoring.

2. The fabric is not the highest quality you can find, but I'll say it is at least comparable to what you would find at the RTW level in a comparable price range. At least you'll have the fit relatively spot on first.

I'd say give them a try. Make sure you tell themexactly what you want from them. If things are made clear (all the great classic details of the proper dinner jacket you listed) then they will do a good job of it.

Another alternative is to see if Jos A. Banks has a sale on soon. A lot of AAAC members discuss the quality of their dinner jacket, but you will need some good tailoring with that to make it fit perfectly.

I'd say spend less on the dinner jacket, more on the proper accompanying shoes, the accessories to make it spot on... and keep the change you'd have compared to buying a "branded" dinner jacket for your honeymoon
smile.gif


Not sure if you know the site, but this is the bible to black tie: The Black Tie Guide
 

TimelesStyle

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Originally Posted by Blackhood
No one seems to be answering the question you actually asked.

Zenga/Armani are priced 60% becuase of the name. Thus a $2000 will be contructed roughly as well as an $800 no-name brand.

MTM is priced about 30% on name, so a $2000 MTM (not from a "designer") will be about as good as a $1400 no-name suit.

If you want to find out the quality of MTM then speak to them about construction; is it canvased, will it have working cuffs, who makes the fabrics, how many fittings do they do?

Unless you find an amazing fit, MTM is almost always better value than OTR.


Going to call bullshit on at least part of the above. I definitely don't think you're paying the same % for brand name from Zegna and Armani. Just look at a $2k suit from each and you'll see what I mean. $2k will get you Zegna mainline while it'll only get you Armani white label. The black label Armani, comparable to Zegna mainline, will run closer to $3k.
 

Sazerac

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Originally Posted by Unregistered
I'd say spend less on the dinner jacket, more on the proper accompanying shoes, the accessories to make it spot on... and keep the change you'd have compared to buying a "branded" dinner jacket for your honeymoon
smile.gif
Not sure if you know the site, but this is the bible to black tie: The Black Tie Guide

I disagree that he should skimp on the dinner jacket for the sake of the shoes. Patent leather kicks or opera pumps aren't really good for anything except formal wear. To the Z Zegna question. This line is all right for what it is, but only if you can get it on sale. I have a number of jackets and even suits from them bought on discount and they're fine for evenings out but not particularly durable. That said, you'll likely wear your dinner jacket only a few times a year, so you might get away with it. (Again, if you buy on discount.) EDIT: I'm not a Brooks Brothers fan myself, but a lot of guys 'round these parts swear by them. Maybe look there? For 2K, though, I would think there could be smaller local MTM shops that could accommodate you. I had my bespoke rig made about eight years ago by a relatively unknown guy in NY and it cost me about $2500.
 

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