Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

dah328 · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by BlueHorseShoe

Can someone please point me in the direction of a comprehensive thread regarding traditional black tie affair? Thanks!
This one below is focused on weddings, but there's lots of good black tie info in it. There are lots of other threads here that cover similar ground, too. Try some searches. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=6562

PipersSon · Jan 26, 2011

I've tried to look it up but did not find answers, so here goes.

What is Incotex and Mabitex exactly? The brand or the material or both?

How do you recognize the types? I.e by look or feel or both (and if by feel, how do they feel).

Much obliged as always.

binge · Jan 26, 2011

They are brands.

XKxRome0ox · Jan 26, 2011

what the hell is "sprezz"? ... all i know is it's some sort of SF-speak

onix · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

what the hell is "sprezz"? ... all i know is it's some sort of SF-speak

short for sprezzatura: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprezzatura

outlaw · Jan 26, 2011

Anyone know if the James/Sharp 2 is a traditional or slim fit. thanks

BlueHorseShoe · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by dah328

This one below is focused on weddings, but there's lots of good black tie info in it. There are lots of other threads here that cover similar ground, too. Try some searches.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=6562

Thanks much.

Unregistered · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by BlueHorseShoe

Thanks much.

By far my bible for black tie: www.blacktieguide.com

Bartlebooth · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

what the hell is "sprezz"? ... all i know is it's some sort of SF-speak
From the introduction to Giorgio Vasari's abridged Lives of the Artists, published in the Oxford World's Classics series:

"Vasari was opposed to any artistic style that exhibited pedantic book learning, academic exercise, or unusual, laborious effort. As a result, one of the highest compliments he pays to an artist is that his works possess grazia or grace. Vasari's emphasis on this ephemeral quality (perhaps best embodied in the painting of Raphael) probably reflects the influence of Baldesar Castiglione (1478-1529), whose Book of the Courtier (1528) argued that social behaviour should be governed by the ideal of sprezzatura or a kind of studied nonchalance. True art, according to Castiglione, was art which did not reveal itself to be art and was produced effortlessly and without obvious signs of study and emphasis upon technique. Sound training was insufficient, in Vasari's opinion, to explain the appearance of such original geniuses as Michelangelo. Great talent improves with training and education, but no amount of such training and education can automatically produce a masterpiece."

On another note: I remember finding a site years ago that had a variety of tie knots listed by type (symmetrical and asymmetrical are the only categories I can remember off the top of my head, since that's what I'm wondering about). Anyone know it, or know one like it? Or just a good tie-knot site?

dasai · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by BlueHorseShoe

Can someone please point me in the direction of a comprehensive thread regarding traditional black tie affair? Thanks!
As in, the clothes, or etiquette? If it's the clothes, this is the most complete source on the internet: http://www.blacktieguide.com If it's the etiquette surrounding a traditional black-tie event, I'd suggest checking something like Emily Post or Debrett's, rather than a thread on an internet forum (traditionally not such a stalwart bastion of civility).

the_state · Jan 26, 2011

I need a solid tailor in NYC to essentially re-make some items in my wardrobe. Suits that don't quite fit right. Chinos that seriously need to be tapered. Reapplying buttons so that they won't fall off after 6 months. Who would you trust for these types of jobs? Money isn't much of an issue, unless the prices are total ****. Ideally I'd like to find a real tailor, not a half dry-cleaner half tailor situation. I live in Brooklyn and work in SoHo, so anything below 14th St would be awesome.

Thanks!

BlueHorseShoe · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by dasai

As in, the clothes, or etiquette? If it's the clothes, this is the most complete source on the internet:
http://www.blacktieguide.com

If it's the etiquette surrounding a traditional black-tie event, I'd suggest checking something like Emily Post or Debrett's, rather than a thread on an internet forum (traditionally not such a stalwart bastion of civility).

That's true. Excuse my poor diction. I meant not affair, but attire.

ratboycom · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by ratboycom

iGents, as a casual outfit would you think it ok to wear a tweed large print houndstooth winter coat with wool small pattern glen plaid pants? My planned outfit with the pants seems fine (dark purple v-neck sweater, pointed collar shirt, maybe a college stripe tie), but with the coat does it seem too matchy or wonky with the pants? Normally I would go with a grey cropped trench, but its too chilly for that combo atm and the tweed is my warmest coat.

Pics of the coat/pants/etc on request.

Bump of the pattern question. Tried it in my house, but I felt it looked a bit off. From a distance it might look ok as the GP looks grey, but up close...

davidschlott · Jan 26, 2011

Do softer shouldered jackets, sportcoats, etc. fit larger than coats with more structured shoulders?

For example, would a coat measuring 17.75 fit with soft shoulders fit larger than a structured coat with the exact same measurement?

Can this even be generalized? I hope this makes sense....

Thanks

Nicola · Jan 26, 2011

Originally Posted by davidschlott

Do softer shouldered jackets, sportcoats, etc. fit larger than coats with more structured shoulders?

For example, would a coat measuring 17.75 fit with soft shoulders fit larger than a structured coat with the exact same measurement?

Can this even be generalized? I hope this makes sense....

Thanks

The only way I could imagine things changing is if a person had very sloping shoulders. The soft jacket would follow the shoulder slope. But you'd think that would end up meaning they'd fit smaller.

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

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