Single breasted peak lapel – style rules

Hi All,

I intend to get a single breasted made-to-measure suit in the near future and wanted to get some feedback on the design choices I was intending to go for in order to ensure I wasn't breaking any style rules, please can you guys confirm that I'm not making any faux pas with the below design:

Style: Single breasted two buttons
Lapel: Peak lapel
Vents: Double vented
Pockets: Slanted flapped, no ticket pocket
Cuff: Five kissing buttons
Trousers: No pleats
Fit: Slim fit

In addition I was interested in what people's general opinion was of having five cuff buttons? I have heard some people say it should always be four buttons without exception but at the same time I have also come across some people who think that five buttons are really smart. In my mind if the buttons are kissing then four can look like to few so five makes good practical sense in this case.

Also I have noticed that some people are wearing suits which feature bright coloured stitching around the outside of one of the button holes on the cuff or around the hole on the lapel. What are the views on this? Is this simply a case of making a statement that the suit is made-to-measure or bespoke?

Thanks for any feedback

Check out the peak lapel suits that Tom Ford (and Spoo) wear.

I wouldn't do slanted pockets, and I would include a ticket pocket. Tom Ford also has 5 buttons on his cuffs, and I suppose you could unbutton one to make it four - however, many would consider this the height of vulgarity.

Don't have bright coloured stitching around the button holes. Just don't. You'll look like an idiot.

Originally Posted by Mac

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Check out the peak lapel suits that Tom Ford (and Spoo) wear.

I wouldn't do slanted pockets, and I would include a ticket pocket. Tom Ford also has 5 buttons on his cuffs, and I suppose you could unbutton one to make it four - however, many would consider this the height of vulgarity.

Don't have bright coloured stitching around the button holes. Just don't. You'll look like an idiot.

Agree with most of it...

Peak lapels is already a distinctive look ,don't overdo it or you will regret it later on...

No bright coloured stitching..No slanted pockets on a conservativish suit.

From what I have seen at marshalls, bright colored stitching will only lead people to believe that your suit is from Sean Combs' clothing line.

Also, +1 on the "no hacking pockets."

Originally Posted by Mac

Click to expand...

Check out the peak lapel suits that Tom Ford (and Spoo) wear. I wouldn't do slanted pockets, and I would include a ticket pocket. Tom Ford also has 5 buttons on his cuffs, and I suppose you could unbutton one to make it four - however, many would consider this the height of vulgarity. Don't have bright coloured stitching around the button holes. Just don't. You'll look like an idiot.
Pretty much this. Also, I have a TF Gucci blazer with 5 cuff buttons, and I like to unbutton 1 on each. Don't ask me why, I just like it. Call it a subversive touch to otherwise classic garments. So yeah, +1 to almost everything said here.

I agree with most of what you're saying. BUT For the love of all that's holy; ditch the bright buttonhole stitching. I wouldn't do the slanted pockets either, and a ticket pocket just makes things look a little more 'complete'. But I would keep the flap on the ticket pocket the same width as the main pockets. 5 buttons is enough to be different, but not enough to be vulgar. I keep one on my right and 2 on my left unbuttoned, just my preference. And because I'm wearing Tom Ford when I do, i can easily say FU to those who think its vulgar I wouldn't, however, have a really slim fitting suit. I would keep the upper chest 'regular' but the waist quite suppressed, and a slightly flared skirt. The trousers would look more balanced if you had a little room in the thigh and a little at the ankle.

I don't know if it's a rule or not, but I very much like a single button PL SB. At the same time: I'm undecided about the hacking pockets, but indeed NO coloured stitching. I made this mistake once and a potentially fine PoW suit looked dated after about 3 weeks. Still regretting this.

High-contrast stitching turns an otherwise great garment (or any garment) into a costume piece.

those are some large lapels and flap pockets. guess this only works for a taller/ more build person?

Big sweeping peak lapels, ticket pockets and the five cuff buttons seem to be a TF signature.

Originally Posted by RogerC

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I don't know if it's a rule or not, but I very much like a single button PL SB. At the same time: I'm undecided about the hacking pockets, but indeed NO coloured stitching. I made this mistake once and a potentially fine PoW suit looked dated after about 3 weeks. Still regretting this.
My Richard Anderson single-breated peaked-lapel coats have one button ... and hacking pockets (including ticket). Also, I leave one cuff button open given my affinity for the height of vulgarity.

That said, I do use a second coat maker that doesn't go for slanted pockets ... but does make for me a SB PL coat (with ticket pocket). I still leave one button on each cuff open. I'm just too committed to the look of vulgarity ... even if it doesn't reflect reality.

Originally Posted by RSS

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My Richard Anderson single-breated peaked-lapel coats have one button ... and hacking pockets (including ticket). Also, I leave one cuff button open given my affinity for the height of vulgarity. That said, I do use a second coat maker that doesn't go for slanted pockets ... but does make for me a SB PL coat (with ticket pocket). I still leave one button on each cuff open. I'm just too committed to the look of vulgarity ... even if it doesn't reflect reality.
Which button...?

I ordered a mid grey SB PL suit this weekend. Specs:

2 buttons
side vents
4 kissing buttons on sleeve
no ticket pocket
no slanted pockets
one forward facing pleat

I thought about doing a 1 button suit because I think it looks great with PL, but in the end I decided on regular 2 buttons b/c it was the first suit I ordered from this maker.

I have a single breasted peak lapel, and I love it. I would not go with ticket pocket though. I went with one button, and it turned out well.