Kilgour Quality?

godofcoffee · Jan 16, 2011

It seems as if A&S and Hunstman (maybe Poole, too) dominate the discussion of SR bespoke on the interwebs: what about Kilgour? I like their relative stylishness, their lower prices, the fact that they visit the states regularly, and their discount for "young executives". Does anybody have personal experience with them? I'm considering bespeaking something simple, like a navy blazer, and I'd like to find a good house to deal with going forward.

Nataku · Jan 16, 2011

No idea about their bespoke stuff, but I have a ton of their RTW shirts. Not the older Kilgour, French and Stanbury stuff, but the newer "Kilgour" stuff. Shirts are made in Italy (I was expecting English-made), but the fit and quality is excellent.

godofcoffee · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by Nataku

No idea about their bespoke stuff, but I have a ton of their RTW shirts. Not the older Kilgour, French and Stanbury stuff, but the newer "Kilgour" stuff. Shirts are made in Italy (I was expecting English-made), but the fit and quality is excellent.

Thank you - but usually the quality of a house's RTW diffusion lines don't really speak to bespoke quality. Lauren Ralph Lauren is apparently terrible, but RLPL is pretty good bespoke. I've seen Kilgour shirts in a tonne of NY retailers, but never bitten.

cold war painter · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by godofcoffee

Thank you - but usually the quality of a house's RTW diffusion lines don't really speak to bespoke quality. Lauren Ralph Lauren is apparently terrible, but RLPL is pretty good bespoke.
RLPL does bespoke?

godofcoffee · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by cold war painter

RLPL does bespoke?
I'm sorry - I meant MTM, but my mind was on bespoke. Although I think somebody at their new flagship told me they did bespoke at some point, but I'd doubt it. (just checked: definitely MTM only. http://stores.ralphlauren.com/promo/...o_measure.aspx)

Nataku · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by godofcoffee

Thank you - but usually the quality of a house's RTW diffusion lines don't really speak to bespoke quality. Lauren Ralph Lauren is apparently terrible, but RLPL is pretty good bespoke. I've seen Kilgour shirts in a tonne of NY retailers, but never bitten.

I wouldn't say their RTW is a diffusion line and was in no way knocking the quality of the shirts I own, just sharing some details. Obviously the bespoke stuff will be made in England. IMO, the shirts I own are pretty nice, so I'd assume the bespoke stuff is nothing short of amazing.

scurvyfreedman · Jan 16, 2011

I have a bespoke Kilgour tweed jacket from the late 60s. I bought it second hand, but he construction from that period was very good. Everything was handsown. I can't speak about today's garments at all. The chest piece is still very firm/stiff. It also could be the stiffness of the tweed. The shoulders are roped, but not overly so. The shoulders are hardly padded.

George · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by godofcoffee

It seems as if A&S and Hunstman (maybe Poole, too) dominate the discussion of SR bespoke on the interwebs: what about Kilgour? I like their relative stylishness, their lower prices, the fact that they visit the states regularly, and their discount for "young executives". Does anybody have personal experience with them? I'm considering bespeaking something simple, like a navy blazer, and I'd like to find a good house to deal with going forward.
It was once very highly rated, known for having the best cutters on the Row. There was a move into RTW under Brandelli (?) a few years ago which switched the focus (of potential customers) away from the bespoke side of things. I don't know whether their Bespoke now, is as good as it once was. Cary Grant was probably their most famous customer. The legend that is Edward Sexton, was apprenticed at Kilgours. SR tailors are rarely discussed on SF, with perhaps the exception of A&S as the Americanised Italian aesthetic is dominant on here. More the pity.

TheWraith · Jan 16, 2011

Grant is outfitted in Kilgour in North By Northwest, but he used a few SR tailors in his lifetime, as many people like that often do.

lasbar · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by TheWraith

Grant is outfitted in Kilgour in North By Northwest, but he used a few SR tailors in his lifetime, as many people like that often do.

And rightly so...

So many sartorial sins and so little years on earth to enjoy them.

George · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by TheWraith

Grant is outfitted in Kilgour in North By Northwest, but he used a few SR tailors in his lifetime, as many people like that often do.
I think every man and his dog has claimed to have made that suit. In fact it was made by a tailors called Quintino of Beverley Hills.

TheWraith · Jan 16, 2011

Some sources say Kilgour, some Norton & Sons, some Quintino. As there's no way of proving it now, after all these years (despite what various forums may claim), I shall continue to believe as I see fit.

Matt S · Jan 16, 2011

Originally Posted by TheWraith

Some sources say Kilgour, some Norton & Sons, some Quintino. As there's no way of proving it now, after all these years (despite what various forums may claim), I shall continue to believe as I see fit.

At one point in the movie a Quintino label is visible, so it is proven that they had some involvement in the clothes. Some people claim that Kilgour made some of the suits and then Quintino made some copies. I doubt that Kilgour and Norton & Sons would make a copy of the other's suit.

godofcoffee · Jan 16, 2011

We've gotten a bit off topic here, but while we're at it, I want to mention that I've read your blog, Matt S, and it's excellent.

TheWraith · Jan 17, 2011

There were undoubtedly multiples of suit involved in the film, and I'm sure there was multiple makers. However, as I said, there is no positive proof of anything either way, only theories. 50+ years after the film was made, there will never be a definitive answer. Sorry.

Kilgour Quality?

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