Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures

Pliny · Dec 29, 2010

what he said.

fritzl · Dec 29, 2010

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

Vass uses a vamp and two quarters (inside and outside sections have their own quarter) = 3 pieces.

AS does not use a separate quarter for the outside section. The outside goes through from toe to heel = 2 pieces.

can you explain it with pictures?

Pliny · Dec 29, 2010

Originally Posted by fritzl

can you explain it with pictures?
Sure - so you can see the back seams of the Vass and the ASHG at #177. and below you can see the inside seams: AS left, Vass right.

and here you can see the Vass has an outside seam too (so it's got 3 pieces of leather in the upper). The ASHG doesn't (so it's got 2 pieces of leather in the upper).

It makes the AS a slightly sleeker shoe than the Vass looking from the side - as much as a monk can look sleek. Not necessarily better. What's more noticeable I think is the closer cut sole and immaculate leather on the ASHG.

fritzl · Dec 29, 2010

Originally Posted by Pliny

...

thank you.

Burton · Dec 29, 2010

Originally Posted by Pliny

Sure - so you can see the back seams of the Vass and the ASHG at #177.
and below you can see the inside seams: AS left, Vass right.

and here you can see the Vass has an outside seam too (so it's got 3 pieces of leather in the upper). The ASHG doesn't (so it's got 2 pieces of leather in the upper).

It makes the AS a slightly sleeker shoe than the Vass looking from the side - as much as a monk can look sleek. Not necessarily better. What's more noticeable I think is the closer cut sole and immaculate leather on the ASHG.

Great pictures. I have to say that I really enjoy both. I love the style of the AS Handgrade double monk--very classic and refined. For different reasons the Vass is also a beautiful shoe.

Slewfoot · Dec 29, 2010

Originally Posted by Burton

Great pictures. I have to say that I really enjoy both. I love the style of the AS Handgrade double monk--very classic and refined. For different reasons the Vass is also a beautiful shoe.

+1. Tough to pick a favorite as I love them both! Congrats on some great choices. How is the fit on both of them? Is one wider and/or longer?

Pliny · Dec 30, 2010

Originally Posted by Burton

Great pictures. I have to say that I really enjoy both. I love the style of the AS Handgrade double monk--very classic and refined. For different reasons the Vass is also a beautiful shoe.
Cheers. Clintonf designed the style; Chay Cooper coloured the semi-crust leather. The medallion is from the ASHG Milton. I love the simplicity of the Vass too. Very wearable.

+1. Tough to pick a favorite as I love them both! Congrats on some great choices. How is the fit on both of them? Is one wider and/or longer?

Thanks - they're both 43.5s, and the Vass F and the AS 48 are very similar in shape. When I swap the trees there's hardly any compressibility in the vamp of either - they're that close. But the Vass is slightly roomier in the toebox. The AS is exactly the same width at the widest point and slightly longer overall, but it's more aggressively waisted. The AS heel is slightly smaller in all 3 dimensions. The Vass' Rendenbach double sole is quite a bit thicker than the AS double.

Slewfoot · Jan 7, 2011

Cross-post from the Shoe Appreciation thread. While not Handgrade these are MTO.

Here are my new Alfred Sargent Culfords. I REALLY like the way they turned out. I requested dark brown country calf and didn't realize the soles would have some dark tan and the eyelets would be a nice brass color. For some reason I was thinking that everything would be dark, but this is much better. Kudos to Chay and AS!

emptym · Jan 7, 2011

Chay has great taste for little details like that. Is this your Springline last modified, D, or a normal last?

Slewfoot · Jan 7, 2011

Originally Posted by emptym

Chay has great taste for little details like that. Is this your Springline last modified, D, or a normal last?

That he does! This is actually the #48 soft square Handgrade last, but made to the regular Culford standards. This last fit me best and was well worth the 50 sterling surcharge to alter the last on an existing model.

NORE · Jan 7, 2011

Very nice Dave!

Pliny · Jan 9, 2011

Slewfoot;3984023 said:
Cross-post from the Shoe Appreciation thread. While not Handgrade these are MTO.

re: Culfords

Not much call for boots like that here where it's just hot day after day, year round - but those are special. The Dainite sole without bevel or fiddle looks good, and ditto on the strength and simplicity of the upper. The 48 is a terrific boot last - got the gravitas u want .. nice

fullb · Jan 11, 2011

I received few weeks ago my AS MTO order and I really love them thanks to Chay for great advice and good job.

Adelaide
Last 106
Handgrade finishing with oak bark fiddleback sole.
Burnished chestnut Calf.
Lasted wooden shoetrees.

Orgetorix · Jan 12, 2011

^ Beautiful. I think the AS handgrades are getting even better.

luk-cha · Jan 12, 2011

Originally Posted by fullb

I received few weeks ago my AS MTO order and I really love them thanks to Chay for great advice and good job.

Adelaide
Last 106
Handgrade finishing with oak bark fiddleback sole.
Burnished chestnut Calf.
Lasted wooden shoetrees.

i like this config

Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures

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