UPDATE: (Posture and rushed pics vs.) First bespoke suit - please critique

Kill that shirt with fire. Those cuffs ... I agree that the jacket looks a little lopsided at the rear, but I'm not sure if it was just the way it was sitting in the photo. I'm also not sold on the sleeves, they do seem a little off ... quite bunched up towards the top. The rest of it looks OK, although if I were going bespoke, I'd want something more than just OK. But hey, if you like it ...

I would say to the untrained eye, the suit looks good overall. Especially if you're walking around and not in a straight posture position.

Except for that shirt cuff. I'm a conservative guy and that shirt cuff is too out there for myself.

I think however, the the trousers are too short, there's no break in the front, whilst the buttocks area is not fitted enough, and doesn't hug the buttocks enough, too baggy there.

there seems to be little crumples/wrinkles on the left shoulder of the suit.

The vest of the 3 piece should be a bit more tighter fitted around the torso and chest. But nothing too bad there.

i like the sheen of the shirt fabric.

The WATCH CUFF is fuckingbuttfuckingugly as ****. Disgusting fuckingly ugly. Would it kill you to wear a cuff that covers your watch like everyone else? Would it kill you to lift back the cuff to check the time??

Originally Posted by ginlimetonic

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Waistcoat revealing the belt buckle, shirt cuff revealing watch are gimmicky. You'd probably get a lot of complements from the ladies who know nothing about 'traditional' style. I see you like the attention to detail, but bespoke should be worn understated. Features on a bespoke suit include is shirt grippers on your trousers, functional cuffs, armpit pad, functional cuff, heel stays.

From the top, shoulders pads are heavily sloped and have a lot of ripples- from the inwards pressure from the sides. Heavy waist tapering makes the suit look feminine, and contributes to the overall fit looking 'top heavy' and unbalanced.

I can see from the back photo that there is too much room in the shoulders and confirm my thoughts about it looking top heavy. The tailor appears to have little skill in stitching the sleeves to the jacket.
what is a heel stay? I have heard of it with shoes but not a suit.

Originally Posted by lee_44106

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Terrible for something touted as "bespoke"

The fit is just atrocious. Stylistic choices are up to you. The bad fit cannot be forgiven

This.

Originally Posted by SuitMyself

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The WATCH CUFF is fuckingbuttfuckingugly as ****. Disgusting fuckingly ugly. Would it kill you to wear a cuff that covers your watch like everyone else? Would it kill you to lift back the cuff to check the time??

I am shocked by the fact that several members think that the fit of that suit is good. It's so bad that any mid-market RTW suit in the OP's size would fit him much better. Sorry for being crude, but some things should be beyond reasonable disagreement.

Originally Posted by Antedote

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how it could be improved for next time

Originally Posted by Despos

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A few random observations

Bespoke really means fittings, and perhaps evolution over time. Add to that fabric and body weight behaving differently as well.

The key, I have learned, is that if the tailor takes it to the finish, s/he better be damn sure that it won't finish all wonky and unalterable.

Better to play around with body twists and differential hip heights as C. Despos mentioned at a more basted stage, as the bespoke article is more revealing and unforgiving than RTW.

- M

I'm no expert, but it certainly looks like an off-the-rack suit that was just taken in. The sleeves on the shirt are bunched, the sleeves on the suit jacket are bunched, there's extra material on your butt. I'd be happy if that suit were from Indochino, but for bespoke (and the accompanying $1200+ tag) I'd be mad as hell.

Originally Posted by Antedote

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a 3-piece suit with a few innovations (special blackberry pocket in the pants to minimize the bulge, hidden key pocket in the front of the pants also to minimize bulge, exposed belt buckle on the vest via a cutaway), and overall very well-constructed (IMHO).

I'd really appreciate any feedback on how it looks + how it could be improved for next time. Thanks!

-A


Lose the gimmicks

Suit looks great. In the interest of being nice, I'll say that I believe the shirt cuff treatment gets points for originality. Has anyone ever seen this before?

Thanks for posting the pictures, Antedote. It takes guts to face the critical eye of SF.

I believe there is no doubt that this suit has quite a few fit issues as pointed out above, e.g.,
shoulders lumpy, divoty, and too wide, too wide back, torquing of fronts and sleeves, trousers, etc.

From an overall design perspective, I find it quite angular and top-heavy. If that's what you were going for, great, but it is not pleasing to my eye. There is little organic harmony here.

With regard to the gimmicks... well, it's your suit, and these little details are one of the benefits of bespoke. I can't help but think that Don wasn't quite on board with regard to these requests, or how else to explain their seemingly haphazard execution?
They look like somebody took a chunk out of a better garment in order to include a 'window' of some sort, as opposed to integrating the goal of showing off your accessories into the overall design.

Don't take this critique personally, Antedote, as it wasn't you who designed (I hope), cut, and fit the suit. It seems you had some doubts yourself, or why else would you have posted here?

Originally Posted by radicaldog

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Very interesting. How much leg curvature can a good trousermaker hide? I have the same problem and I have to say that my bespoke trousers do improve the situation a bit, but not by much. I guess a fuller cut of trouser would make the tailor's job easier though. Ditto for heavier cloth?

Increase the knee circumference enough to make the line straight from hip/fly to bottom. There is some advantage to using heavier cloth.

Originally Posted by alliswell

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You can hide a lot. You do have to tell your tailor that your legs aren't straight, IME - they don't often look for these things unprompted.

Tailors who think you don't know much. If a tailor points out all the irregularities, then he has to make the appropriate manipulations and invest the time to execute all the corrections. It's time consuming and takes experience and an attitude to want to make the best possible garment.

I'm heading to Toronto soon, and I am looking for some price range on bespoke. I was wondering if you or anyone else could give me a rough estimate on what I should be expected to pay for a suit? Thanks!

Burn the shirt, tie and vest. Take the suit back and get the shoulders fixed, they are way too wide. Othwerise the fit is good.