Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

dah328 · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by cptjeff

It can be done, and I don't think it's too difficult. I would go for it, personally. Have them taken down to a nice classic size that will look good regardless of trend. 70's stuff may be coming back in, but I still think lapels that make you look like you should be calling air traffic control are rather ugly.

And it shouldn't require any other alterations to the jacket.
It's a substantial alteration.

dah328 · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by mattyb124

Can anyone recommend and Upper East Side NYC tailor? Need to have a pair of suit pants taken in and potentially slimmed down? Don't want to brake the bank either... Thanks in advance!
Do a search for the "Hopefully definitive thread on NYC tailors". It has tons of info on NYC alterations tailors.

dah328 · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by MikeSalvino

BTW I did do a forum search on this and only got threads from Streetware and Denim. (They're not as nice over there.....)

Unfortunately, they're the ones with denim expertise.

dah328 · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

So I mostly hear about british shoemakers, Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett and Jones, Cleverley, and I also hear about american shoemakers, Allen Edmonds and Alden. I will rarely hear about france's Corthay but not really any other "foreign" shoe makers. The comprehensive list is a bit *too* comprehensive. My question is, what are the best shoemakers outside of the US and the UK?
Vass gets lots of attention as do a variety of Italian makers such as Ferragamo Tramezza and Santoni. There are several "shoe hierarchy" threads in the MC forum. Do a search for them if you want more details.

in stitches · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

So I mostly hear about british shoemakers, Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett and Jones, Cleverley, and I also hear about american shoemakers, Allen Edmonds and Alden. I will rarely hear about france's Corthay but not really any other "foreign" shoe makers. The comprehensive list is a bit *too* comprehensive. My question is, what are the best shoemakers outside of the US and the UK?

i have a pair of zegna couture loafers they are excellent i have heard they are made by ferragamo but they are far better than any ferragamos ive ever had

phila_suit · Dec 20, 2010

I just got measure for my first custom suit over the weekend. Getting it for my wedding next year. My question is if anyone knows where I can find interesting Bemberg lining for the suit coat and vest back. I live in the Philly area, so someone around here would be great, but willing to look in NJ/NY

Zach · Dec 20, 2010

Does anyone have any experience with Allen Edmonds shoes in the "Brown Burnished Calf" Color? I picked up a pair of Fifth Avenues in that color last week and I'm not sure what color polish to buy. I contacted AE and they suggested their Dark Brown Polish, but I am a bit worried it may take the shoes to a bit darker tone than I want to see them at.

I don't mind using a polish that may add a bit of burgundy tint, or picking up a bottle of Saphir cream polish - but again, not sure what colors may work.

chasingred · Dec 20, 2010

Someone once posted a link here to an article written sometime in the 50s or 60s about Beau Brummel. It was a fantastic read, but I can't seem to find it. I believe it's a fairly classic article. Does anyone by chance know the title, publication, or link?

cptjeff · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by dah328

It's a substantial alteration.
Not that substantial. You're only talking about cutting open the lapel, cutting it down, and resewing it. Possibly redoing some padstitching. Back in the 60's, it was advertised at many dry cleaners, along with tie narrowing (BTW- 40's bold look suits look really, really bad with narrow lapels). I wouldn't try that at a dry cleaner today, but a competent tailor shouldn't have an issue with it. Substantial alterations involve stuff like changing sleeve angles, changing the shoulders in about any way, stuff that involves messing with major structural elements. It's more substantial than hemming pants or taking up a sleeve, yes, but I would not put it anywhere close to the plane of messing with major structural elements.

RyanAnderson · Dec 20, 2010

Was just at Macy's and saw a gray Lauren by Ralph Lauren silver label sport coat. I don't have one in gray and was thinking it could work to fill out my wardrobe at a good price (with multiple discounts, it'll be around $175).

I've seen minimal references to the brand on the site, but apparently it's not owned by RL anymore and people think the clothes are crap.

can someone give me a reason why the clothes are crap quality and explain why I shouldn't go for it at such a low price?

Thomas · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by chasingred

Someone once posted a link here to an article written sometime in the 50s or 60s about Beau Brummel. It was a fantastic read, but I can't seem to find it. I believe it's a fairly classic article. Does anyone by chance know the title, publication, or link?
Hmmm, is that the essay on the art of wearing clothes, which also included comments on A.J Drexel Biddle, among others? try this: http://www.thematerialist.net/artofwearingclothes.html

dah328 · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by cptjeff

Not that substantial. You're only talking about cutting open the lapel, cutting it down, and resewing it. Possibly redoing some padstitching. Back in the 60's, it was advertised at many dry cleaners, along with tie narrowing (BTW- 40's bold look suits look really, really bad with narrow lapels). I wouldn't try that at a dry cleaner today, but a competent tailor shouldn't have an issue with it.

Substantial alterations involve stuff like changing sleeve angles, changing the shoulders in about any way, stuff that involves messing with major structural elements. It's more substantial than hemming pants or taking up a sleeve, yes, but I would not put it anywhere close to the plane of messing with major structural elements.
Substantial in that it is labor-intensive and therefore expensive. Also, if there is an open button hole on the left lapel, you cannot narrow the lapels without throwing off the placement of the button hole.

kumizi · Dec 20, 2010

I have a question about buying a Belstaff leather jacket. I want the Gangster in antique black and the only place I can find it is through a British retailer. http://www.lineafashion.com/store/pr...ducts_id=11020 Anyone ordered from there before? I've never ordered from an international source and wanted to make sure the product wouldn't get held up in customs, etc.

michaelscheiderfield · Dec 20, 2010

Do we need to make our upper outfit same color with the lower?

chasingred · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by Thomas

Hmmm, is that the essay on the art of wearing clothes, which also included comments on A.J Drexel Biddle, among others?

try this:

http://www.thematerialist.net/artofwearingclothes.html

That's exactly it. SF never ceases to surprise me with the amount of collective knowledge on here. I ask a vague question about some random article I read a long time ago, and someone knows exactly what I read.

Thanks for the link.

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

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