Imprecise machine pick-stitching.

The Louche · Dec 17, 2010

So I know that there are all sorts of arguments against machine pick stitching - it's coarse, inelegant, superfluous, etc. I understand all of that. But I have a separate question:

Have any of you noticed that pick stitching machines often transition improperly from the lapel roll to the quarters? The result is that, at the 1-2" of transition between lapel and quarter, the pick stitch sometimes winds-up upside down for a short stretch, with the underside exposed in places that the top should be.

Anyone else noticed this? As happy as I remain with the MTM garments that I've had made at English American Co., this is one of the little things that irritates me.

NORE · Dec 17, 2010

I've had this happen. Means the lapel isn't rolling like intended (at least IMO) which then points to a non-canvas lapel.

Moral: avoid cheap suits.

The Louche · Dec 17, 2010

Actually, the suits in question for me are pretty well made, as others can attest. Certainly no Oxxford or Kiton build quality, but on par with Hickey Freeman, Samuelsohn, etc. They don't have any fusing in them at all.

My thought is that its simply very difficult for the machine to "read" the transition from lapel to quarter, especially on a full canvas garment where the roll is smooth and flowing.

KObalto · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by NORE

I've had this happen. Means the lapel isn't rolling like intended (at least IMO) which then points to a non-canvas lapel.

Moral: avoid cheap suits.

EA is fully canvassed. What I don't like about mine is that the lapels have a crease ironed in them which detracts from the roll. I didn't opt for pick stitching.

The Louche · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by KObalto

EA is fully canvassed. What I don't like about mine is that the lapels have a crease ironed in them which detracts from the roll. I didn't opt for pick stitching.

I've had the lapels come both ways. You can always have a presser correct this if you don't like it.

BTW, are you pleased with the gamrent otherwise?

NORE · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by The Louche

Actually, the suits in question for me are pretty well made, as others can attest. Certainly no Oxxford or Kiton build quality, but on par with Hickey Freeman, Samuelsohn, etc. They don't have any fusing in them at all.

My thought is that its simply very difficult for the machine to "read" the transition from lapel to quarter, especially on a full canvas garment where the roll is smooth and flowing.

What brand?

Originally Posted by KObalto

EA is fully canvassed. What I don't like about mine is that the lapels have a crease ironed in them which detracts from the roll. I didn't opt for pick stitching.

You can reset your lapel roll by completely pressing it out (removing the crease and letting it roll naturally, YMMV).

--Jonas-- · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by NORE

What brand?

English American Co

KObalto · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by The Louche

I've had the lapels come both ways. You can always have a presser correct this if you don't like it.

BTW, are you pleased with the gamrent otherwise?

I am very pleased with the fit and quality for the price and will be back for more. Thanks for all your help on this. BTW, do you know their pricing for the H&S Savile Row line fabrics?

The Louche · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by KObalto

I am very pleased with the fit and quality for the price and will be back for more. Thanks for all your help on this. BTW, do you know their pricing for the H&S Savile Row line fabrics?

I'm not familiar with a H&S book named "Savile Row" but I do have a few EA garments made from various H&S goods. The blazer I have made of Crispaire was about $650, and the suits made from some plain worsteds (don't know the book, but very nice 2x 120s quality stuff) were close to $1000 for a coat and one trouser.

These prices, of course, are for garments ordered directly from the EA factory. Expect considerable mark-up going through any of their distribution channels. But I think you're a local, correct, KObalto? Is that the "balto" bit in your handle? Tell Elio I said hello!

KObalto · Dec 17, 2010

Originally Posted by The Louche

I'm not familiar with a H&S book named "Savile Row" but I do have a few EA garments made from various H&S goods. The blazer I have made of Crispaire was about $650, and the suits made from some plain worsteds (don't know the book, but very nice 2x 120s quality stuff) were close to $1000 for a coat and one trouser.

These prices, of course, are for garments ordered directly from the EA factory. Expect considerable mark-up going through any of their distribution channels. But I think you're a local, correct, KObalto? Is that the "balto" bit in your handle? Tell Elio I said hello!

Right you are and Elio is a pleasure. I mentioned you when he measured me.

a tailor · Dec 17, 2010

the machine operators are paid on a piece work basis. if they work fast they get paid well.
nuff said?

scurvyfreedman · Dec 17, 2010

I recall you were planning to go to Fields in Georgetown. Did you have success? Any pics if so.

TonyThe Tailor · Dec 17, 2010

E/A has an actual hand stitched edge for an extra charge

The Louche · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by scurvyfreedman

I recall you were planning to go to Fields in Georgetown. Did you have success? Any pics if so.

Not yet. I think I'm close to the point where I could justify the price if I were to get 1) only one item, such as an odd jacket, and 2) something SUPER utilitarian. So I've basically decided that a navy blazer from Field is in my not-TOO-distant future.

Problem is, I don't want to wind up in a position where I am so in love with the Field garment's fit, that all of my other clothing becomes seemingly sub-par. This is a very legitimate concern b/c I couldn't afford to build an entire wardrobe from Field.

Originally Posted by TonyThe Tailor

E/A has an actual hand stitched edge for an extra charge

Didn't know this, but I'm going to inquire next time...

The Louche · Dec 20, 2010

Originally Posted by a tailor

the machine operators are paid on a piece work basis. if they work fast they get paid well.
nuff said?

Yes.

Imprecise machine pick-stitching.

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