WW Chan's Neopolitan shoulder construction - pictures

George · Nov 24, 2010

Originally Posted by Bull

**** me, thank ******* isn't in colour.

Slewfoot · Nov 24, 2010

Originally Posted by emptym

The finmeresco blazer suit I got from them has that. I think it's great.

Got the Breanish tweed coat from them yesterday and love it.

Nice! If ever possible to get more close up shoulder pics like we've been seeing here that would be appreciated.

Which Breanish did you end up getting? I love mine as well.

A Y · Nov 24, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

Not sure why Parker took his pic down but, yes, that's what I meant. The seam slants backwards and instead of having a seam on top of the shoulder, there's just cloth. I imagine that helps achieve a cleaner shoulder line but I'm not sure whether that's correct or not. All I know is that I asked Patrick if he could cut the next coat that way and he said no, they cut it that way, we cut it differently with the seam following the shoulder line.

I'm not sure if you know this already, but this issue ("short backneck") is of minor controversy in SF. Manton and Jeffrey discuss it here:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...50#post2842850

And all forum controversy leads back to A&S:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...45#post1101345

Their claimed feature is allowing more fullness over the shoulder blades, and keeping the collar on the neck. Jeffreyd and Despos demur. My Italian tailor regards it as an English feature FWIW.

--Andre

k4lnamja · Nov 24, 2010

Originally Posted by George

**** me, thank ******* isn't in colour.

I'm in love with suits but only for a short time, therefore, I'm still a newbie.

Can someone explain how this person's collar is "nice and tidy" whereas whenever I wear a tie it doesn't look as good as this?

I typically tie a full or a half windsor.

k4lnamja · Nov 24, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

wow. amazing suit.

apropos · Nov 25, 2010

Originally Posted by Bull

Ah, an example of spalla comica in the wild.

dragon8 · Nov 25, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Ah, an example of spalla comica gone wild.

FTFY

emptym · Nov 28, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Nice! If ever possible to get more close up shoulder pics like we've been seeing here that would be appreciated. Which Breanish did you end up getting? I love mine as well.

Originally Posted by gdl203

Not sure why Parker took his pic down but, yes, that's what I meant. The seam slants backwards and instead of having a seam on top of the shoulder, there's just cloth. I imagine that helps achieve a cleaner shoulder line but I'm not sure whether that's correct or not. All I know is that I asked Patrick if he could cut the next coat that way and he said no, they cut it that way, we cut it differently with the seam following the shoulder line.
Here are some pics guys, the breanish, ST6 first and the Smiths second. They're not in great focus, but I think you can see the backward slant of the shoulder seam. It doesn't slant as far back as some other coats I have, but the collars stick very well to my neck.

I adjusted the color a bit in this pic to bring out the seams:

I put up more pics on the general Chan photo thread.

dragon8 · Nov 28, 2010

Originally Posted by emptym

Here are some pics guys, the breanish, #7 first, and the Smiths second.
They're not in breat focus, but I think you can see the backward slant of the shoulder seam. It doesn't slant as far back as some other coats I have, but the collars stick very well to my neck.

I put up more pics on the general Chan photo thread.

Actually, the pics do not do it justice, the fabric and shoulders, they are much more impressive IRL.

Slewfoot · Nov 28, 2010

Originally Posted by emptym

Here are some pics guys, the breanish, #7 first, and the Smiths second.
They're not in breat focus, but I think you can see the backward slant of the shoulder seam. It doesn't slant as far back as some other coats I have, but the collars stick very well to my neck.

Looks great! Thanks for sharing!

emptym · Nov 28, 2010

Originally Posted by dragon8

Actually, the pics do not do it justice, the fabric and shoulders, they are much more impressive IRL.
Thanks M. I think you're the only SFer to have seen both irl!

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Looks great! Thanks for sharing!
No prob, D. I love Chan's soft shoulder. Will probably get another one soon. Wish I was going to HK soon like you are! Btw, if you get a fresco coat, I recommend a medium to darkish lining. As you can make out a bit in the pics on the other thread, the white striped lining on the sleeves shines through at times. The silvery-blue lining in the body does fine though. Also, I was wrong about the Breanish. It's ST6. And sorry the pics are so bad. I was testing the limits of my girlfriend's patience by asking her to take these. I might try to take better ones. I think the camera focused on the rug not my shoulder.

Kentishman · Nov 28, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Ah, an example of spalla comica in the wild.

I got it; subtle and good!

TheTukker · Nov 29, 2010

Originally Posted by A Y

I'm not sure if you know this already, but this issue ("short backneck") is of minor controversy in SF. Manton and Jeffrey discuss it here:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...50#post2842850

And all forum controversy leads back to A&S:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...45#post1101345

Their claimed feature is allowing more fullness over the shoulder blades, and keeping the collar on the neck. Jeffreyd and Despos demur. My Italian tailor regards it as an English feature FWIW.

--Andre

My Chan shoulders are cut as GLD's - i.e. not as clean of a neckline as Parker's - but the collar stays closer/better to the neck on them than on one of my other suits (from a different tailor) that has an angled shoulder. Just my two cents.

Slewfoot · Nov 29, 2010

Originally Posted by emptym

No prob, D. I love Chan's soft shoulder. Will probably get another one soon. Wish I was going to HK soon like you are! Btw, if you get a fresco coat, I recommend a medium to darkish lining. As you can make out a bit in the pics on the other thread, the white striped lining on the sleeves shines through at times. The silvery-blue lining in the body does fine though.

Also, I was wrong about the Breanish. It's ST6.

And sorry the pics are so bad. I was testing the limits of my girlfriend's patience by asking her to take these. I might try to take better ones. I think the camera focused on the rug not my shoulder.

Thanks! I have a DB Fresco jacket and notice that issue on occassion, but it doesn't really bother me. I'll probaly get a darker color ermazine lining if I get a Fresco odd jacket next year.

Definitely worth it to do a full fitting at Chan if you're back in HK. Always works out very well.

Originally Posted by Lonneker

My Chan shoulders are cut as GLD's - i.e. not as clean of a neckline as Parker's - but the collar stays closer/better to the neck on them than on one of my other suits (from a different tailor) that has an angled shoulder. Just my two cents.

My Chan shoulders are straight as well and hang very nice and snug on my neck. I plan on speaking with Patrick about the pros and cons of an angled shoulder for my pattern next time I see him more out of curiosity than anything. I'm not too concerned either way.

TheTukker · Nov 30, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

My Chan shoulders are straight as well and hang very nice and snug on my neck. I plan on speaking with Patrick about the pros and cons of an angled shoulder for my pattern next time I see him more out of curiosity than anything. I'm not too concerned either way.

Thanks David - any chance you can let us know here what Patrick tells you?

WW Chan's Neopolitan shoulder construction - pictures

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