my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Originally Posted by George

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H&S also have a book made from S140's wool, cashmere and silver mink called Victory. I have some trousers made from that.

This in one of my tailor's favorite books and I have 6 or so suits from it. I have to admit I was initially a doubter but have fully come around on this cloth. It is extremely luxurious, especially in comparison with the Minnis, but it has guts and keeps its body/shape extremely well.

George, which mohair do you like? I have a jacket made from Cape Kid and am pretty happy with it but don't know much about the cloth. I'm thinking of an evening F-U kind of suit with structure, pagoda shoulders and all that jazz.

--Andre

Originally Posted by A Y

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George, which mohair do you like? I have a jacket made from Cape Kid and am pretty happy with it but don't know much about the cloth. I'm thinking of an evening F-U kind of suit with structure, pagoda shoulders and all that jazz. --Andre
I don't like the Cape Kid mohairs or mohairs of that ilk, too light and not crisp enough. The Mohairs I like are the 2 ply or 3 ply mohairs which are a different beast, a much crisper cloth. Usually 70% wool 30% Mohair. A word of caution, they do have a rough hand. Sources that I know of: Dormeuil Tonik is the most famous. Not woven any more, replaced by a cloth called Tonik 2000. Scabal have or had a cloth called Titan, which was a 3 ply. Similar hand to Tonik. H&S had a few Mohairs in the old Crispaire book these were 2 ply 70/30 mixes. Very nice cloths. Not sure they're in the new book though. Bateman & Ogden have a book full of them. If Mahon is making this for you, he'll have no problem sourcing then for you.

Originally Posted by George

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For whom?

If your concerned about the trousers, just get your tailor to half line them.

If you're concerned about what others may think if they touch the cloth, then yes it does have a rough hand and doesn't feel luxurious.

But, no suit looks as sharp as a beautifully cut Mohair suit.

So I chose the 90/10 mohair wool because I couldn't feel the scratchiness from the swatch and I thought it wouldn't bother me. But now I can feel the scratchiness of the jacket through my shirt if my short is too thin or porous. The pants are being made now. I hope the lining will be thick enough. That said, I like the look of the cloth. In retrospect I wonder if I should have gone for the cloth with less mohair.

Originally Posted by poorsod

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So I chose the 90/10 mohair wool because I couldn't feel the scratchiness from the swatch and I thought it wouldn't bother me. But now I can feel the scratchiness of the jacket through my shirt if my short is too thin or porous. The pants are being made now. I hope the lining will be thick enough. That said, I like the look of the cloth. In retrospect I wonder if I should have gone for the cloth with less mohair.
You can feel the cloth through the lining of your jacket or at the front.

Originally Posted by George

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H&S had a few Mohairs in the old Crispaire book these were 2 ply 70/30 mixes. Very nice cloths. Not sure they're in the new book though.


I have a suit in the navy mohair Crispaire. If a bullet could be shot through it, I wold be surprised.

- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I have a suit in the navy mohair Crispaire. If a bullet could be shot through it, I wold be surprised. - B
It's nice cloth. I had the mid grey one. There were only about 4 in the book IIRC. I'm not sure that they're in the new book though. How do you find yours and when do you wear it?

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I have a suit in the navy mohair Crispaire. If a bullet could be shot through it, I wold be surprised.

- B

Wisconsin's soon to be a conceal and carry state, let's give it a shot.

Rob

The old Tonik was great, tragedy they don't make that any more.

Originally Posted by George

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How do you find yours and when do you wear it?

It's a great pack and travel suit, and also a good one to wear day into evening with a quick tie change.

It can probably scrub a potato with one swipe, but I have not tested that.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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It's a great pack and travel suit, and also a good one to wear day into evening with a quick tie change.
Yep, good point. I've always considered Mohair a dressy cloth.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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It can probably scrub a potato with one swipe, but I have not tested that. - B
Ha, and the Crispaire was probably one of the more 'refined' versions too. I need to get another one, probably a midnight blue one.

Originally Posted by Manton

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The old Tonik was great, tragedy they don't make that any more.
Too heavy, too scratchy and too bloody expensive. I keep hearing rumours that it is being woven again but I doubt it. The market no longer exists for cloths like that. The Tonik book was beautiful.

Originally Posted by George

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You can feel the cloth through the lining of your jacket or at the front.

I felt it through the front, not through the lining. More of a surprise than discomfort.

Originally Posted by George

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Too heavy, too scratchy and too bloody expensive.

I keep hearing rumours that it is being woven again but I doubt it. The market no longer exists for cloths like that.

The Tonik book was beautiful.

It was crazy expensive.

I didn't mind the scratch. I've yet to come across a cloth that bothers me because of scratchiness. When I read people complain about that I scratch my head.

I agree it was too heavy. The colors and finish were summery but the weight was not. Still, very beautiful.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Quite right. One should not comment on photographs. Devil's work.

Instead, I offer this video featuring Antonio Paone of Kiton and other Kiton luminaries:

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- B
All I can tell you is that his style is as high and tight, and as extreme, as I have ever seen. Once I saw a nice coat of his, on Uppercase, but otherwise it has been high kings of Scampia.