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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

George

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TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Manton
I still think you are going too far. First, the shape of lapels, quarters, etc., are not incidental. They have a huge impact on how the suit looks and the overall aesthetic.

Second, I can now instantly identify both as "Neapolitan" however different they are. I've seen lots of Roman and Milanese tailoring and there is no way either NSM or Solito could have come from there.


Granted, there are hallmarks, as you point out. But the fact that I can spot a Mercedes because of the badge on its trunk lid or the ornament on its hood doesn't make such indicators significant to the style and design of the car. They are incidental in the sense that they are what Mercedes happens to slap on every model, regardless of its substantive aesthetic or functional qualities.

So, yes, I can spot a Neapolitan jacket too. However, that doesn't mean Neapolitan jackets share a style that can be meaningfully generalized. I'd probably go to a place like Caraceni, Poole or Sedwell before turning to another Neapolitan tailor.
 

itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by radicaldog
I agree that they are very different, but they are both Neapolitan, hence a comparison seems fair. Good and bad Neapolitan, to be crude. I should add that I see quite a lot of variation even between NSM suits, judging from the pictures above. The grey and the chalk stripe seem much better than the blue three-piece.
There are several common personalities in Naples, and I think two are manifest in the typical clothes made there. One aims to rule Scampia, the other aims to pretend Naples is still a sort of kingdom...
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Granted, there are hallmarks, as you point out. But the fact that I can spot a Mercedes because of the badge on its trunk lid or the ornament on its hood doesn't make such indicators significant to the style and design of the car. They are incidental in the sense that they are what Mercedes happens to slap on every model, regardless of its substantive aesthetic or functional qualities.

So, yes, I can spot a Neapolitan jacket too. However, that doesn't mean Neapolitan jackets share a style that can be meaningfully generalized. I'd probably go to a place like Caraceni, Poole or Sedwell before turning to another Neapolitan tailor.


Now you are just being argumentative.

OF COURSE lapels, quarters etc. are significant to the design of the suit. The are among the primary things a person sees. They determine it's look. There is no engine inside.

I think you are just flat wrong that no generalizations are possible. They are possible and (and others) have made them and they are accurate to what I can plainly see.

Frankly an A&S style suit looks to my eye more substantially different from the rest of SR than one Neapolitan does from another.

I don't know why you wouldn't go to Solito, who looks a hell of a lot Rubinacci to my eye. So does Panico.
 

radicaldog

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
This is a nice theory. I don't believe that it applies to NSM, though, based on the chat I had with them. Mina and Dino were dismissive of RTW Naples stuff, both in terms of representing traditional make and the overall style. I doubt that she seeks to mimic the Neiman Marcus and Barney's racks. She also seemed not to be very cognizant of what the "luxury" American chains carry. This makes sense to me.

But, your distinction between the Attolini and Blasi historical influences might explain a lot. At least in my case, I plan to use it for stuff that is for sunnier climes, and sunnier and more casual moods. It does not bother me at all that it would have a "regional" flavor. Frankly, as someone who more often than not wears things in the A&S style, I am already guilty of wearing a niche product unlikely to give comfort to plump American worker bees.


- B


It seems plausible that NSM have a range of styling, from the gimmicky to the reasonable. But they do seem to go for the 'look at my Neapolitan coat' thing.

I also said above that it's fine for casual wear. And especially summer wear, which of course makes casual even more casual.

And I know that thankfully you wouldn't replace your Steed staples with this stuff.

Look, at the end of the day it may just be my residual Italian snobbery.
 

gomestar

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Originally Posted by Manton
There are pronounced similarities between my NSM coat and my Solito. The shape of the lapels are cut much the same, as are the swoops of the quarters and the sleeve caps. Front dart to the bottom, angled side dart, etc.

But NSM is less draped, MUCH tighter in the waist and has a more pronounced back balance kick. The sleeves also are narrower.


I recon my Solito is more like your NSM than your Solito.
 

Manton

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Seeing belt under vest make Baby Jesus cry.
 

TRINI

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radicaldog

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Originally Posted by iammatt
There are several common personalities in Naples, and I think two are manifest in the typical clothes made there. One aims to rule Scampia, the other aims to pretend Naples is still a sort of kingdom...

Indeed. Some Neapolitan MTM/bespoke shirts I have are from a small chain that is growing (well, not sure -- they have three or fours shops) in Italy, and under their name it says 'Reame di Napoli'. Which, by the way, is probably also a way of not admitting that they are not made in Naples proper, but probably in somewhere in the region.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Manton
Now you are just being argumentative.

OF COURSE lapels, quarters etc. are significant to the design of the suit. The are among the primary things a person sees. They determine it's look. There is no engine inside.

I think you are just flat wrong that no generalizations are possible. They are possible and (and others) have made them and they are accurate to what I can plainly see.

Frankly an A&S style suit looks to my eye more substantially different from the rest of SR than one Neapolitan does from another.

I don't know why you wouldn't go to Solito, who looks a hell of a lot Rubinacci to my eye. So does Panico.


Well, regardless of our disagreement, I can assure you I'm not being argumenative. Neither the precise curvature of the lapels nor the openness of the quarters would ever make me pick one tailor over another. They're simply gravy.

I wouldn't use Solito or Panico largely because I wouldn't want to deal with a Neapolitan tailor who doesn't have an organized infrastucture for servicing trans-Atlantic clients. While I disagree that Solito generally looks very similar to Rubinacci, I do like much of what I've seen them do. If they had a regular schedule I could count on, I'd strongly consider them if Rubinacci no longer satisfied me.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by radicaldog
It seems plausible that NSM have a range of styling, from the gimmicky to the reasonable. But they do seem to go for the 'look at my Neapolitan coat' thing.

I also said above that it's fine for casual wear. And especially summer wear, which of course makes casual even more casual.

And I know that thankfully you wouldn't replace your Steed staples with this stuff.

Look, at the end of the day it may just be my residual Italian snobbery.


Well, let's see what she makes for me. One big difference from many of the numbers posted so far is that it's a straight conservative business dress fabric: dark blue birdseye milled for Huntsman. That might calm the eye.

- B
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Well, regardless of our disagreement, I can assure you I'm not being argumenative. Neither the precise curvature of the lapels nor the openness of the quarters would ever make me pick one tailor over another. They're simply gravy.

I wouldn't use Solito or Panico largely because I wouldn't want to deal with a Neapolitan tailor who doesn't have an organized infrastucture for servicing trans-Atlantic clients. While I disagree that Solito generally looks very similar to Rubinacci, I do like much of what I've seen them do. If they had a regular schedule I could count on, I'd strongly consider them if Rubinacci no longer satisfied me.


You told me my SB Solito looked "just like Rubinacci."
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