my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

alliswell · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

What Dino was wearing today was about the same as the DeBoise that I was wearing, and I used both jackets to illustrate what I preferred. Dino's jacket looked really good, albeit more lean than I like. I'm waiting for the baste fitting to see if the degree of shrinkwrapping needs to be dialed back.

- B

It's interesting that you've chosen to replace a summer wardrobe with a tight-fitting style of suit. I think - pace Manton - that you'll want a little more space than Mina will offer initially.

alliswell · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by edmorel

that outline on the floor of my pic, have not been able to figure out what was there before. Freestanding urinal? Al Fresco toilet?

Balls-out bidet.

teddieriley · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

when I impart my wisdom to you.

- B

You keep your pants on though when you do this right?

alliswell · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by radicaldog

It reads "but he's awake/smart when you polish their bellies".

Ma ciÃ² non significa nulla in inglese.

alliswell · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

In Berlin today... I've got the only color in a room full of black suits.

Originally Posted by TC (Houston)

My good lord, these look phenomenal to my eye. This may be the new frontrunner for me.

This coat is the quite the nicest piece of clothing I've ever had the pleasure of trying on. I nearly made Eddie an offer for it before he grew too attached to it.

voxsartoria · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by alliswell

It's interesting that you've chosen to replace a summer wardrobe with a tight-fitting style of suit. I think - pace Manton - that you'll want a little more space than Mina will offer initially.

Mine will not be tight. I think.

- B

ljrcustom · Nov 3, 2010

So then what kind of lapel roll would the one on my Borrelli jackets be considered? Since I thought they were a 3 roll 2, but the top button hole opening on my jackets it not shown as much as the top button hole opening on the jacket Dino was wearing today. This is what I was attempting to explain in my previous post. Thanks.

-LR

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

That's what a 3 roll 2 is: the lapel rolls past the top button/buttonhole down to the middle. By doing so, the top buttonhole is, well, flipped over nearly entirely. A nice effect is when the lapel rolls through a bit of that top buttonhole, braking up the line. True on a Brooks No. 1. True on an A&S. And true for this buttoning on Italian jackets. On a hand sewn buttonhole, therefore, you want the finished side to be the opposite of the bottom two, unless you have a double finished hole like Oxxford does (used to?)

- B

Manton · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by poorsod

Where did you find areas for adjustment?

I figured that the chest was going to be lean during the fitting but I didn't realize the slimness of the sleeves. I think the added bulk of the sleeve lining to an already tapered sleeve is really what I'm feeling at "tight". This is least noticeable when I'm wearing a slim shirt.

My sleeves were pretty full. Not a problem. I wanted a bit more drape in the chest but the coat was wearable as it was.

The pants were not.

gdl203 · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by ljrcustom

So then what kind of lapel roll would the one on my Borrelli jackets be considered? Since I thought they were a 3 roll 2, but the top button hole opening on my jackets it not shown as much as the top button hole opening on the jacket Dino was wearing today. This is what I was attempting to explain in my previous post. Thanks.
3 roll 2.5

voxsartoria · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by ljrcustom

So then what kind of lapel roll would the one on my Borrelli jackets be considered? Since I thought they were a 3 roll 2, but the top button hole opening on my jackets it not shown as much as the top button hole opening on the jacket Dino was wearing today. This is what I was attempting to explain in my previous post. Thanks.

-LR

Post a pic. The Borrellis that I have are all true 3/2s, but they are all Linosa/Sorrentos.

- B

Eustace Tilley · Nov 3, 2010

My Mina at the fitting stage really wasn't that tight at all - about the same as A&S

greger · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

In Berlin today... I've got the only color in a room full of black suits.

Looks nice. Like that.

radicaldog · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by alliswell

Ma ciÃ² non significa nulla in inglese.

Infatti non vuol dire niente nemmeno in italiano.

radicaldog · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by ljrcustom

Wow, you are very precise. I appreciate the response. What really threw me off was how the the lapel button hole was on the show side. I am not used to this at all. On all the jackets that I have the lapel button hole is not seen unless you turn the lapel. The rest of what you described is pretty close to what I can recall from meeting with Dino and Mina today. For jackets that they are making for you, will the lapel button be on the show side, like Dino's or will it be hidden as I mentioned.

-LR

He means that they are finished on both sides. That's how most Italian tailors do 3-roll-2s.

edmorel · Nov 3, 2010

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

My Mina at the fitting stage really wasn't that tight at all - about the same as A&S

yeah, I've easily gained 10 pounds (be quiet alliswell) since my first coat was made and it's still not tight in any way and the sleeves are bigger than what most would consider "normal". Also the sleevecaps are not Sciamat-ish, they calm down.

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

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