my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Originally Posted by medtech_expat

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I recommended Hammersley's Bistro to Mina & Dino. Please recommend a few others, especially for fresh seafood. I've also encouraged them to take some time to enjoy their first visit to the city, so anything you could advise them would be great. I'm not sure how the experience will compare to Steed, but I think you'll be pleased nonetheless.

Just opened: Island Creek Oyster Bar.. Great place run by a strong team.

Originally Posted by George

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Eh...!!

Originally Posted by aportnoy

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I was shocked as well. I figured he was in for at least a dozen.

We'll see how it goes. I'm optimistic. I got Ed Morel celebrity scheduling, like buying the empty seat next to you on a plane to ensure zero chance that two annoying people are seated together.


- B

Very nice pics. thanks Eddie!

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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We'll see how it goes. I'm optimistic. I got Ed Morel celebrity scheduling, like buying the empty seat next to you on a plane to ensure zero chance that two annoying people are seated together.


- B

I'm just jealous...but have taken a vow of fidelity with my current tailor.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Just opened: Island Creek Oyster Bar.. Great place run by a strong team. We'll see how it goes. I'm optimistic. I got Ed Morel celebrity scheduling, like buying the empty seat next to you on a plane to ensure zero chance that two annoying people are seated together. - B
Take a look at the plaid sports coat, left under arm dart (the coats right).

Originally Posted by Manton

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1) The vest looks pretty good. I feel bad about all the mean things I have said about Italian vests. They do cut them with a much lower V than is typical on SR, however.

2) Why do they pin SB coats with two inches of overlap?

It doesn't matter. They mark the lap and trim off extra cloth to have the amount of lap they want. That is what you do at the fitting stage.

Originally Posted by George

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Take a look at the plaid sports coat, left under arm dart (the coats right).

If you are referring to the pattern not matching it is normal not to match. There is a horizontal cut under the pocket that requires the horizontal pattern to run like this. Better to have the cut than pattern matching. Fitting can be done without the cut but you have to rebalance the jacket, shorter back, this guy has big blades and that would not be optimal. You can see the back on the grey jacket, there is pulling from the waist diagonally up to the blades.

Originally Posted by Despos

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If you are referring to the pattern not matching it is normal not to match. There is a horizontal cut under the pocket that requires the horizontal pattern to run like this. Better to have the cut than pattern matching. Fitting can be done without the cut but you have to rebalance the jacket, shorter back, this guy has big blades and that would not be optimal. You can see the back on the grey jacket, there is pulling from the waist diagonally up to the blades.

Mine have that same dart/cut. I have huge blades.

^^^ On a typical Naples pattern draft, the underarm dart is cut at a pretty sharp angle. It begins back under the scye and comes forward to meet the pocket at about a 15-20 degree angle. I think that throws off the pattern.

Originally Posted by George

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Take a look at the plaid sports coat, left under arm dart (the coats right).

I noticed that right off the bat. I'm taking in thee textured solids, and since I'm experimenting with NSM as the successor to my sunny-months Neapolitan RTW, I see solids rather than strong patterns in the future.

So, thankfully, I can ignore this.


- B

Originally Posted by Despos

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It doesn't matter. They mark the lap and trim off extra cloth to have the amount of lap they want. That is what you do at the fitting stage. If you are referring to the pattern not matching it is normal not to match. There is a horizontal cut under the pocket that requires the horizontal pattern to run like this. Better to have the cut than pattern matching. Fitting can be done without the cut but you have to rebalance the jacket, shorter back, this guy has big blades and that would not be optimal. You can see the back on the grey jacket, there is pulling from the waist diagonally up to the blades.
I'm referring to Vox's penchant for pattern matching. I've no doubt that the tailor who is executing that coat knows what he's doing.

Jeffryd's pic:

Great post - thanks medtech. I'll be meeting Mina in NY this coming Friday.

Originally Posted by Manton

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^^^ On a typical Naples pattern draft, the underarm dart is cut at a pretty sharp angle. It begins back under the scye and comes forward to meet the pocket at about a 15-20 degree angle. I think that throws off the pattern.

No, there is a horizontal cut taken on the pocket seam that results in the pattern taking that downward dip. Since this has patch pockets, the cut is done a couple inches below the top of the pocket and covered with lining to conceal the cut.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Jeffryd's pic:

I have a coat cut like that, English tailor from the early 90's I've got a picture of it but can't downsize the basterd. Is the black horizontal mark below the stamp a marking for a cut/dart?

Originally Posted by aportnoy

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I'm just jealous...but have taken a vow of fidelity with my current tailor.




- B

Originally Posted by Despos

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You can see the back on the grey jacket, there is pulling from the waist diagonally up to the blades.



- B