Unjung's Bespoke Adventure (special appearance by Vox)

Originally Posted by GBR

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Nonsense: I assume that this is just a gratuitous comment with no real point. There is no age related cut off on wearing trousers with a fish tail back and young people can and do find them just as comfortable.
In a sense I understand what he is talking about, or at least obliquely referencing. We all grow up with certain sociocultural norms - and norms in clothing are not exempt. There is equivalence in the negative sentiments expressed by Will (of ASW fame) towards dress pants cut like jeans (low rise, fitted) and Bull towards fish-tail backed pants. Of course this forum is filled with old people who are, well, old (hai Vox), and young people who dress like old people because they sentimentalise the experiences of the old/past or find value in sentiments held by (real or imagined) older people, but then again that's what makes SF MC... SF MC, as opposed to say, superfuture. We see value in old things here - be they literal, ideological, or sentiments.

I get English backs on pants for three piece suits where there's a vest.

Otherwise, I get post-1980s straight back pants, with side tabs and no belt loops.

Also, it's just a personal thing that I'm not the type of person who takes off a jacket at the office unless I'm wearing a vest. So, other than posting on the Internet, I'm not seen in suspenders in public.

That's my system and I'm sticking with it.


- B

Originally Posted by apropos

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In a sense I understand what he is talking about, or at least obliquely referencing. We all grow up with certain sociocultural norms - and norms in clothing are not exempt.

There is equivalence in the negative sentiments expressed by Will (of ASW fame) towards dress pants cut like jeans (low rise, fitted) and Bull towards fish-tail backed pants.

Of course this forum is filled with old people who are, well, old (hai Vox), and young people who dress like old people because they sentimentalise the experiences of the old/past or find value in sentiments held by (real or imagined) older people, but then again that's what makes SF MC... SF MC, as opposed to say, superfuture. We see value in old things here - be they literal, ideological, or sentiments.

I can agree with you to some extent but to suggest that there is a specific cut off point is clearly absurd. The corollary is that all who fall outside that determined norm on the wrong side of the 'barrier' are being said to be foolish and acting outside what is required of someone of that age.

Where does one keep his wallet since the fish cut trousers have no back pocket ? Shifting all your stuff from a wallet to a breast wallet on a daily basis seems like a chore.

You must either never sit or have an S spine.

Originally Posted by GBR

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I can agree with you to some extent but to suggest that there is a specific cut off point is clearly absurd. The corollary is that all who fall outside that determined norm on the wrong side of the 'barrier' are being said to be foolish and acting outside what is required of someone of that age.
I agree with you to an extent but (assuming you both are from the same 'generation') you cannot argue (with a view to 'winning' that argument) that his views capture less accurately the zeitgeist of his/your 'generation' than yours. He may have falsely equated a mist-grey/fog-grey situation with a black/white one, but all things considered I'd still put my money on his horse. Just my 0.02, I am thankful I can enjoy both sides of the sartorial equation for their own merits.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I get English backs on pants for three piece suits where there's a vest. Otherwise, I get post-1980s straight back pants, with side tabs and no belt loops. Also, it's just a personal thing that I'm not the type of person who takes off a jacket at the office unless I'm wearing a vest. So, other than posting on the Internet, I'm not seen in suspenders in public. That's my system and I'm sticking with it. - B
A swell system. Unfortunately I work in a job where eventually, I will have to take my jacket off, or else risk its ruin*. *: not a FNB sanitation engineer reference.

Originally Posted by aj_del

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Where does one keep his wallet since the fish cut trousers have no back pocket ? Shifting all your stuff from a wallet to a breast wallet on a daily basis seems like a chore.

I guess everyone is different. I'm a minimalist for wallet contents. I think that I normally carry three cards total, including a driver's license. There are a three or four bills in the wallet of bribery denominations. That's it. A bit more cash in a money clip, in hail-a-cab and tip-the-doorman denominations.

I tend to change wallets most days anyway...obviously a habit unknown to most mortal men. I just leave the cash in each wallet.

Originally Posted by apropos

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A swell system. Unfortunately I work in a job where eventually, I will have to take my jacket off, or else risk its ruin*.

*: not a FNB sanitation engineer reference.

Yeah, well that's completely normal. Even in coat and tie environments these days, the tendency to shed a jacket indoors is probably the rule rather than the exception. I do it only rarely, though. I don't think I've ever done it with suspenders on.

Manton had a post a few months ago where he mentioned his increasing reluctance to take his jacket off to reveal suspenders, leading to wearing suspenders less since he is often among guys who lose the coat in meetings and he does so as well. Fishtail back? Fuggedaboutit.



- B

Originally Posted by aj_del

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Where does one keep his wallet since the fish cut trousers have no back pocket ? Shifting all your stuff from a wallet to a breast wallet on a daily basis seems like a chore.

There are many examples of this type of trouser with one or two back pockets. Purely the choice of the wearer. Older examples tend not to because that was the way of say the 1950s.

Just to clarify. I did not click on this thread when it still said Unjung's Bespoke Adventure. But as soon as (special apearance by Vox) was added I clicked this thread like I have never clicked a thread before in my life.

Originally Posted by unjung

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If you want useful reaction to this shot, have your guy take the photo while you are stadnign normally. It's hard to tell if there's something going on with the lower back and the pitch of the sleeve.


- B

Originally Posted by Flieger

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Just to clarify. I did not click on this thread when it still said Unjung's Bespoke Adventure. But as soon as (special apearance by Vox) was added I clicked this thread like I have never clicked a thread before in my life.

Stabbing motion?


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I guess everyone is different. I'm a minimalist for wallet contents. I think that I normally carry three cards total, including a driver's license. There are a three or four bills in the wallet of bribery denominations. That's it. A bit more cash in a money clip, in hail-a-cab and tip-the-doorman denominations.

I tend to change wallets most days anyway...obviously a habit unknown to most mortal men. I just leave the cash in each wallet.


- B

You need to do a Jason Bourne and have different identities in each wallet complete with credit cards and licences.

What exactly defines sleeve pitch?

Originally Posted by unjung

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I went in today for my first fitting. It went well. I was quite impressed with how close the fit already was. We agreed to extend the length of the jacket by about half an inch. The sleeve length was right on. We also brought in the body just a tiny bit. There will be a bit of pulling on the button, which I like. The suit is full canvas, with quite a bit of handwork to finish, although much of the initial work is done by machine (I have no issue with this). Giovanni can do a full handwork suit but the cost is three to four times as much.

The shop was quite busy, with one younger guy already trying on a skeleton at his first fitting when I arrived. It was good to see that another person in their 20s getting into this in this God-forsaken country. Another gent popped in with his wife to try on some pants and a jacket while I was waiting for the first. So the shop clearly does a lot of business.

All images link to larger versions.






It seems like the armhole could be higher, no?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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What exactly defines sleeve pitch?

Where the arm naturally hangs(?)