Current opinions on Dege/Whittaker bespoke shirts

Sander · Oct 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Very nice vox. How about a fit pic?

Also, are you ordering several shirts in the same cloth / style (the S-G chambray)? Why?

+1. Collar looks very nice, I only remember the one from your first shirt, these are different, no?

voxsartoria · Oct 2, 2010

Originally Posted by George

Push the boat out and get some checks from the Regent range...

In due course...

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

was the needle work any tighter?

is there shirring across the back?

the lining in the collar seems very soft and thin
was that a request?

1. Yes, but still not fantastic.

2. You and your friggin' pro eye! Yes. Ever so slight.

3. Yes, I asked for their lightest unfused interlining.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Very nice vox. How about a fit pic?

Also, are you ordering several shirts in the same cloth / style (the S-G chambray)? Why?

I'm not sure if there will be fit pics. We'll see.

As for the SG chambray, I wanted a set of pull-out-of-the-closet-without-having-to-think shirts, and this cloth seemed to fit the bill best.

Originally Posted by Sander

+1. Collar looks very nice, I only remember the one from your first shirt, these are different, no?

Good eye. This is a different collar: bigger. The neckband is also higher in front. This collar was retrofitted on the first shirt and will be my collar going forward.

The dinner shirt has points that go a bit more inward, though, so that it won't fight the bow.

- B

TC (Houston) · Oct 2, 2010

Outstanding.

F. Corbera · Oct 2, 2010

Originally Posted by TC (Houston)

Outstanding.
..

andreyb2 · Oct 2, 2010

Originally Posted by kraftar

Stephen Lachter: ???
Â£150, 4 shirts minimum. Vox, great shirts! (Why I always like fabric other people selected more than my own choices?

) Andrey

Concordia · Oct 2, 2010

Originally Posted by andreyb2

(Why I always like fabric other people selected more than my own choices?

)

Andrey

I'm guessing that those fabrics are carried by all the London makers. So a quick weblink in an e-mail to your current guy should fix that problem!

voxsartoria · Oct 12, 2010

I really liked this photograph that bengal posted, so I'm reposting here.

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

Dege & Skinner - Robert Whittaker, cutting shirts with a knife:

Another shot from Will's blog:

- B

George · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I really liked this photograph that bengal posted, so I'm reposting here. Another shot from Will's blog:

- B
His collar is standing off his neck.

voxsartoria · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by George

His collar is standing off his neck.

His head is tilted down. I've seen him several times at this point and he is always well turned out. It's a bias of mine.

A really great guy.

- B

George · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

His head is tilted down. I've seen him several times at this point and he is always well turned out. It's a bias of mine. A really great guy. - B
I had to say it before someone else did!

I have no issues, I don't expect a suits collar to stay 'glued' to the back of the neck under all circumstances. I've seen them use knives for cutting silk in the past.

voxsartoria · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by George

I had to say it before someone else did!

I have no issues, I don't expect a suits collar to stay 'glued' to the back of the neck under all circumstances.

I've seen them use knives for cutting silk in the past.

I haven't asked him directly, but even after the pattern is set, I think that he still cuts almost all the collars while his apprentice and he cut the rest of the shirt.

- B

George · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I haven't asked him directly, but even after the pattern is set, I think that he still cuts almost all the collars. - B
No, I was making a general comment about seeing artisans use a knife to cut material in lieu of shears. I wasn't referring specifically to Mr Whittaker's technique.

voxsartoria · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by George

No, I was making a general comment about seeing artisans use a knife to cut material in lieu of shears. I wasn't referring specifically to Mr Whittaker's technique.

Right...I think most good shirtmakers still cut collars and cuffs with a knife, particularly fine fabrics.

- B

bengal-stripe · Oct 12, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Right...I think most good shirtmakers still cut collars and cuffs with a knife, particularly fine fabrics.

I did ask him: he cuts the main pieces (front, back, sleeves) with shears but uses the knife for the small bits: collar, cuffs yoke.
With those pieces he cuts up to four layers in one go. Using shears, the likelihood they could shift while the fabric gets
lifted by the shears' blade is too great.

The knife is not a rotating one, but has a paddle-shaped blade, sharpened on both sides.

voxsartoria · Oct 12, 2010

Thank you.

- B

Current opinions on Dege/Whittaker bespoke shirts

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