Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Next batch in Simonet-Godard will be all barrel cuffs.

p l e e e a a a s e

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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The fit is such a dramatic difference from all my RTW shirts (mostly from the usual Neapolitan RTW subjects...Borrelli, Barba and Kiton) that I'm loathe to wear the RTW (except for OCBDs) anymore.

Did you ever try taking your Napolitan RTW shirts to the tailor to improve the fit?

I ask as I'm considering having the sides taken in on some Finamore and Borrellis.

Originally Posted by Kaplan

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Did you ever try taking your Napolitan RTW shirts to the tailor to improve the fit?

I ask as I'm considering having the sides taken in on some Finamore and Borrellis.

I did, and then I decided it would make more sense to apply that money to picking a shirtmaker and getting new shirts made.

There are aspects to how the Dege fit that could not be addressed adequately by taking in, say, a blousy RTW Borrelli. The shape of the collar, the dimensions of the neckband, the fit around the shoulders and neck, the height and orientations of the armholes, taking into account different aspects of how each shoulder stands, the curve from upper to lower back, and so on. And the Dege don't fight the fit of my bespoke jackets like RTW shirts do. My jackets almost feel like they are "snapping" into place over the shirts.

I was prepared for a big improvement, but it is more dramatic than I thought it would be.

I have no idea how much of this is because Robert Whittaker is a great stylist and shirtmaker, or if most bespoke shirtmakers can duplicate the type of result that I have gotten with him. I can say that I'm very glad that I picked him.


- B

orientations of the armholes...

I have odd shoulders myself, so I appreciate Vox's comment. My pattern is adjusted for the slope (less than usual), the pitch forward (more than usual), protruding shoulder blades (more than usual), etc. The shirt hangs off the shoulders, so it really makes a difference.

That said, I've found that I don't like an aggressive armhole on shirts. I spend too much time with my arms forward, typing at a computer, and they tended to dig in.

Originally Posted by Kaplan

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Did you ever try taking your Napolitan RTW shirts to the tailor to improve the fit?

I ask as I'm considering having the sides taken in on some Finamore and Borrellis.

I've had this done with fantastic results. Most of my Euro Borrelli's have only needed darts as the shoulders, yoke and arm-holes fit perfectly off the rack. I've had alot of RLPL shirts completely re-cut that have also come out perfectly. For me this has worked out better than bespoke and much cheaper. I guess it's a matter of finding the right bespoke maker that can get your patterned nailed down quickly, I just haven't been able to find one or willing to deal with that hassle anymore. I will probably give T&A another try down the road and maybe Geneva but I'm very happy right now with picking up high-end RTW on deep discount and having them altered.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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orientations of the armholes...

There's one on each side.


- B

Originally Posted by jamesbond

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I've had this done with fantastic results. Most of my Euro Borrelli's have only needed darts as the shoulders, yoke and arm-holes fit perfectly off the rack. I've had alot of RLPL shirts completely re-cut that have also come out perfectly. For me this has worked out better than bespoke and much cheaper. I guess it's a matter of finding the right bespoke maker that can get your patterned nailed down quickly, I just haven't been able to find one or willing to deal with that hassle anymore. I will probably give T&A another try down the road and maybe Geneva but I'm very happy right now with picking up high-end RTW on deep discount and having them altered.

I'm surprised that you've found a tailor willing to do all that to a RTW shirt without charging you a lot...but since you have, more power to you.

Maybe it is worth doing that to some of my favorite old RTW shirts. We'll see.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I did, and then I decided it would make more sense to apply that money to picking a shirtmaker and getting new shirts made.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

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I've had this done with fantastic results.
Thank you both for your thoughts. I'll start out with one and see how it goes.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I was prepared for a big improvement, but it is more dramatic than I thought it would be.
Good to hear. My own experiment with 'bespoke' shirts never yielded the results I was hoping for. I say 'bespoke' as I wasn't able to meet the shirtmaker in person, me being in Denmark and him being in Brittain. So while a personal pattern was made up, it was based on my own measurements, as was the following changes to the pattern. But after four tries we still couldn't adequately nail the pattern.

Of course, it shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone that it requires the personal touch of a skilled shirtmaker for the best possible fit.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I have no idea how much of this is because Robert Whittaker is a great stylist and shirtmaker, or if most bespoke shirtmakers can duplicate the type of result that I have gotten with him. I can say that I'm very glad that I picked him.


- B

If you don't mind my asking, why/how did you decide to try Dege for your bespoke shirts? Were you recommended to Dege by a suit maker? Or do they have a reputation for doing a style you were interested in? Just curious why you chose them given all of the potential options.

Originally Posted by OffTheRack

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If you don't mind my asking, why/how did you decide to try Dege for your bespoke shirts? Were you recommended to Dege by a suit maker? Or do they have a reputation for doing a style you were interested in? Just curious why you chose them given all of the potential options.

this will answer all your questions:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=142239

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Maybe it is worth doing that to some of my favorite old RTW shirts. We'll see.
- B

I have found that my RTW shirts can be improved and that this is fine for casual shirts. On the whole, though, I strongly prefer my custom shirts and buy as many as I can afford each year.

I, too, really like the blue micro-check in your latest batch, Vox.

I just ordered a cut of the grange, so I'm looking forward to giving it a try. It's 36", which I've never bought before, so I hope 3m is enough. I guess I'll find out the hard way if I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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this will answer all your questions:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=142239

Thanks.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

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For me this has worked out better than bespoke and much cheaper.

really.

just in case. vox' quoted price for the dege's is much lower than most popular RTW.

despite the nick nacks and fittings nonsense, which is popular among the sf-crowd. a custom made shirt has more soul than anything out of a seamstress. if you can duplicate this with your alteration tailor.

more power to you.