Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Originally Posted by George

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I missed your post first time around.

I don't know how technical discussions aid the prospective customer though, when I say technical discussions, I mean construction, cutting etc. I understand the voyeuristic appeal for them but I don't understand how it will actually makes them more stylish.


My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.

Originally Posted by MBreinin

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Makes sense to me. The Steed was just a bit sharper, which appeals to me. The Attolini was really lovely...but seemed "older" to me. I guess despite all of the SF groupthink that has permeated my brain, a sharper cut still resonates with me. I liked the serious waist suppression and open quarters of the Steed best.

Mike

I've never had the pleasure of meeting Monty, but he strikes me as a successful, well traveled, fit, disciplined guy with dapper taste, a man who has benefitted from the close attention of some of the best tailors and makers of tailored clothing in the world.

The photographs that he has shared of himself have a openness to nitpicking that I do not believe for one second manifests itself in reality. He has his own sense of style, and that is such a basic win in the first place that I have no problem relegating the photos to the back seat.

This is my opinion as a trained wearer of clothing.

- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Barbed wire?

- B
...more like razor wire

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.

You don't pin dumbbells to your fronts to weigh them down in th adaptation phase of jacket ownership?



- B

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.

You raise a really excellent point. I've read about this so much - letting the shoulders settle in/break in, etc. Is all of this hogwash? Or does a suit in fact start to look better as it conforms to the wearer? I noticed that the light blue, "slouchy-fit" DB that you posted recently, while new, already has a very fitted, relaxed, almost "broken-in" look already. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Great thread - I like all 3 to be honest. Something funky is up with the buttoning on Steed #3.

+1

like most of the other posters, i like the steeds the least, but for a different reason; i am not a fan of quarters that fall away from the button point in a straight line. you end up with something too open and airy.

but i also agree that some of the nitpicking here has taken on a life of its own. all things considered, these are all very good.

Originally Posted by George

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...more like razor wire

For the sake of the jumbles, I hope that you sit on Vol II of the Principia. - B

Originally Posted by Bull

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does a suit in fact start to look better as it conforms to the wearer?

A suit will settle a bit, but whether it looks better afterward is a matter of opinion. More often it just looks like it needs a good pressing. However I have seen glaring defects of workmanship excused with a simple "oh it just needs to break in a bit", and that is hogwash, and sadly people have to believe what they are being told.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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You don't pin dumbbells to your fronts to weigh them down in th adaptation phase of jacket ownership?

- B
I sew lengths of steel chain into the hem. Sorta like Chanel did.

Originally Posted by Bull

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You raise a really excellent point. I've read about this so much - letting the shoulders settle in/break in, etc. Is all of this hogwash? Or does a suit in fact start to look better as it conforms to the wearer? I noticed that the light blue, "slouchy-fit" DB that you posted recently, while new, already has a very fitted, relaxed, almost "broken-in" look already. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
not to hijack the response that jeffery will hopefully give to your question - but my own experience has been that heavy fabrics like tweeds / flannels do benefit from a bit of breaking in -- but in the body and arms. certainly not in things like the collar that have a very defined interior skeleton and should have been molded into an optimal fit from the beginning. for soft, neapolitan-style tailoring in fine wools, OTOH, i expect to have a perfect fit on day one in the body, and my own experience has been that there is little, if any, evolution in the fit other than the normal relaxing of any fine wool fabric with wear.

nvm

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

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but i also agree that some of the nitpicking here has taken on a life of its own. all things considered, these are all good.

+1

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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My feelings are a bit mixed on this one. If I were about to shell out several thousand dollars on a camera, for example, I would read up on them first so I knew what I was looking at but there is no dpreview.com equivalent for clothes written by people who know about them. Sometimes I agree that Sator oversteps the boundaries and should shut up about things he doesn't really understand, but at least he and Tutee are attempting to do what nobody in the trade (that I know of) has done and provide some information on evaluating what can be a very costly purchase. People should be informed that when your tailor tells you your coat needs to "break in a bit" for the collar to sit properly on the neck, he is just trying to get you out the door with a substandard product which shouldn't be accepted.
Yes but when you are purchasing the camera you are reading up on the specs, whether it has the features that you require, it's performance compared to others in it's price range, so that you can make an informed choice. What I presume you don't do is delve into the technical aspects of how the camera is manufactured, how it's assembled etc. I agree that you don't need to be a tailor to judge whether a suit fits or not, if the collar stands off your neck it doesn't fit. My point is that there are some, here and elsewhere who offer advice on how to correct fit issues, from a technical perspective whilst never having actually done it. I think that's overstepping the mark. Using a (clumsy) analogy from my own profession, structural engineering. You don't need to be an architect to appriciate whether a building is beautiful or not, nor do you need to be an engineer to marvel at the way the buildings structure seems to be able to defy gravity. However, you do need to be an engineer to understand how it does so. That takes years of training, mentor-ing and study not just reading a book by Timoshenko.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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A suit will settle a bit, but whether it looks better afterward is a matter of opinion. More often it just looks like it needs a good pressing. However I have seen glaring defects of workmanship excused with a simple "oh it just needs to break in a bit", and that is hogwash, and sadly people have to believe what they are being told.

Sounds like any tailor who says anything to imply that an imperfection in fit will fix itself over time with wearing is trying to sell a bill of goods. Very helpful. Thanks.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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For the sake of the jumbles, I hope that you sit on Vol II of the Principia. - B
I doubt Bertrand could soothe my lacerated nad's