JL Powell

bobm · Sep 3, 2010

Any comments/opinions on the JL Powel catalog's offerings? I have bought some items - latest polo shirts aren't so nice, linen pants, shorts and shirts are very nice.

Bob

Matt S · Sep 3, 2010

All of their clothes are overpriced, but they used to make really nice forward-pleated trousers with side adjusters. This year they stopped selling forward pleats and now they refer to them as "balloon pants" in their catalogue and criticize Cary Grant for wearing them.

countdemoney · Sep 3, 2010

JLP is a wonderful grab bag of stuff, some works, some doesn't. I've never tried any of their basic offerings, but I always enjoy seeing their editorial choices. I've had great luck with their previous sweaters, especially those from Inis Meain and those marked as woven in Italy.

I always joke that one day I'll buy the coyote throw:

http://jlpowellusa.com/product/38_48...ote-Throw.html

RSS · Sep 3, 2010

Originally Posted by Matt S

All of their clothes are overpriced, but they used to make really nice forward-pleated trousers with side adjusters. This year they stopped selling forward pleats and now they refer to them as "balloon pants" in their catalogue and criticize Cary Grant for wearing them.
Everyone seems to be going this direction ... and there is NO excuse!

bobm · Sep 3, 2010

Originally Posted by RSS

Everyone seems to be going this direction ... and there is NO excuse!

Not sure what you are referring to? Lack of double pleated pants? Style?

Bob

RSS · Sep 3, 2010

Trousers with pleats come forward pleated as well as reverse pleated. The few makers of foward pleated trousers have -- over the last ten+ years -- been switching to reverse pleats (far more common). There is a difference between the two.

I'll see if I can find photos and return with another post.

RSS · Sep 3, 2010

Forward Pleats:

* * *

Reverse Pleats:

bobm · Sep 3, 2010

Originally Posted by RSS

Forward Pleats:

* * *

Reverse Pleats:

Ok, thanks for posting. Being a sort guy 5'6.5" - I tend to stay away from pleats - but these do look elegant.
Like another poster, I have had a mixed bag of results ordering from JLP, but one thing I am noticing is that they have more items made in China than before - not happy about that. But I do enjoy reading their catalog copy - sort of like Peterman's.

Wes Bourne · Sep 3, 2010

From F.M. Allen:

Originally Posted by RSS

Trousers with pleats come forward pleated as well as reverse pleated. The few makers of foward pleated trousers have -- over the last ten+ years -- been switching to reverse pleats (far more common).

I don't know when the unfortunate change occured in rtw to mostly reverse pleats, but I do remember most of the chinos and pants I wore in high school (mid to late 80s) had double forward pleats and a flapped coin pocket, very similar to the F.M. Allen pair above. They were very common in dept. stores and I can still picture them in the pages of the LL Bean and Lands' End catalogs my dad used to get in the mail.

RSS · Sep 3, 2010

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

From F.M. Allen:

I don't know when the unfortunate change occured in rtw to mostly reverse pleats, but I do remember most of the chinos and pants I wore in high school (mid to late 80s) had double forward pleats and a flapped coin pocket, very similar to the F.M. Allen pair above. They were very common in dept. stores and I can still picture them in the pages of the LL Bean and Lands' End catalogs my dad used to get in the mail.
LL Beam only just discontinued their version this year. Land's End said goodbye a couple of years back. Brooks Brothers had them for a while ... but stopped sometime in the 90s. Very sad.

I still see them at Paul Stuart, Ben Silver and a couple of other men's stores. I't good to know about F. M. Allen! Thanks

bobm · Sep 3, 2010

Ok, I am guessing it's a cost issue?

Bob

srivats · Sep 3, 2010

Originally Posted by RSS

Trousers with pleats come forward pleated as well as reverse pleated. The few makers of foward pleated trousers have -- over the last ten+ years -- been switching to reverse pleats (far more common). There is a difference between the two.

I'll see if I can find photos and return with another post.

Here are a couple of pics -- it is IMPOSSIBLE to find RTW pants with a high raise and with pleats (be it forward or reverse). I was lamenting about this just yesterday in another thread.

Originally Posted by brittain

forward

reverse

RSS · Sep 3, 2010

It can't imagine that a reverse pleat is less expensive to make than a forward pleat. I'm told that the reverse pleat is more popular. Never mind that the forward pleat is typically more associated with England & America ... and the reverse with Italy & France.

RSS · Sep 3, 2010

Originally Posted by RSS

It can't imagine that a reverse pleat is less expensive to make than a forward pleat. I'm told that the reverse pleat is more popular. Never mind that the forward pleat was typically more associated with England & America ... and the reverse with Italy & France.
I hear you ... and I hate to pay Savile Row prices for trousers. The last time I did it was Â£750! I almost had a stroke. I may have to find a Hong Kong tailor to make what I want.

Have any suggestions here or there?

srivats · Sep 3, 2010

This why I love forward pleated, high-waisted trousers -- look how well the trousers drape and how nicely they elongate the line of the legs.

Sadly, it is very difficult something like this in RTW today. I am not a fan of the SF-approves "slim pants" look and prefer wearing fuller trousers, but the ones out there aren't too good. If anyone has a source of RTW trousers that look like the above pic (without breaking the bank), PLEASE share.

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