The Despos Thread

You can't make someone with a George Costanza body look like Brad Pitt. Based on one pic and the military stance, I still think you can conclude it is a very nicely made and well-fitting jacket.

well, the camera (along with death) is the great equalizer. i don't see how it particularly disadvantages one individual more than any other.

i suspect the real issue is the wearer's physique. but in the interest of interweb decorum (and interforum respect for members who have the balls to post pictures of themselves), i will abstain from further comment and return the microphone to you guys.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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You can't make someone with a George Costanza body look like Brad Pitt. Based on one pic and the military stance, I still think you can conclude it is a very nicely made and well-fitting jacket.

I think the key is that it's hard to find anything 'wrong' with the suit. Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare in RTW.

IIRC,that coat of Yachtie's pictured is made out of Harrison's Moonbeam cloth which is very soft.

Read Yachties comments on the London Lounge link and it will clarify some points.

He was not wanting any extra cloth in the chest. I would get the chest fitted how I liked and then reduce it another 1/2". I like to emphasize the chest and shoulder and think a fuller chest would help here. He refers to this in his comments.

Yachtie wears his jacket buttoned at all times and the button stance was determined while he was sitting. to find the optimum point while seated. That is also why the skirt flares a bit, to allow some movement while seated.

For perspective, you are looking at man just under 6' tall with a 48 chest and 0 drop.

Many of those old photographs of yachtie were also taken, I believe, while he was on a fitness improvement strategy that included weight loss. He was holding off alterations/recuts until he was closer to his goals.

Aportnoy did something similar, and in the process replaced a lot of RTW/MTM pieces with bespoke numbers.

Online candid photographs of the work of good tailors are few and far between. The impression that they give, particularly for those makers not at the higher volume marks, will be skewed to their most enthusiastic vanity photography customers. I suppose that can work for or against a particular tailor.

One of the things to look for in yachtie's pictures is that he is quite knowledgable and discerning about features or configurations that come from an earlier age. There is nothing RTW about his look (except the Aldens that typically shod his feet,) and that speaks well to Despos's ability to accommodate a client with ideas of his own. That's one of the things that custom or bespoke tailoring can be at it's best.

- B

Chris, does the wrap coat have a hidden button inside?

Originally Posted by Despos

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For perspective, you are looking at man just under 6' tall with a 48 chest and 0 drop.

that's what i suspected. thanks for clarifying.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Chris, does the wrap coat have a hidden button inside?

Not to my knowledge, unless it is hidden really well.

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

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it hangs stiffly

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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The danger of judging a piece of tailoring by a still picture in terms of something like "stiffness" is that whatever you observe might have nothing to do with the tailoring. .

Or it might have everything to do with the tailoring. I would venture to say that we are so unaccustomed to seeing something fits and hangs correctly without pulling our buckling or obvious defects that we interpret the cleanliness of such a masterstroke as "stiffness".

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare anywhere.

FTFY

Originally Posted by Despos

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Read Yachties comments on the London Lounge link and it will clarify some points.

He was not wanting any extra cloth in the chest. I would get the chest fitted how I liked and then reduce it another 1/2". I like to emphasize the chest and shoulder and think a fuller chest would help here. He refers to this in his comments.

Yachtie wears his jacket buttoned at all times and the button stance was determined while he was sitting. to find the optimum point while seated. That is also why the skirt flares a bit, to allow some movement while seated.


BTW, thanks also for being the only person, in the entire series of posts that followed my observations, to actually bother addressing the specific points i raised, and to explain why the jacket is behaving the way it does.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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There is nothing RTW about his look

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare in RTW.

guys -- i thought we were debating and admiring the finer points of the work an acclaimed tailor, no? i don't hear anyone saying that it looks like RTW. we are well past that point in the conversation.

saw similar comments in the Diller debacle thread and i'm afraid i don't get it. surely we need to apply a higher bar in these discussions than a blunt (and binary) "doesn't look like RTW"? i'm more interested in the finer judgment calls that a tailor has to make when confronted with challenging circumstances. not in whether a sleeve line falls straight without distortion, which, as i said in the Diller thread, is table stakes for good bespoke. one would think.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Or it might have everything to do with the tailoring. I would venture to say that we are so unaccustomed to seeing something fits and hangs correctly without pulling our buckling or obvious defects that we interpret the cleanliness of such a masterstroke as "stiffness".

FTFY

You like it...the sleeves

I had the pleasure of meeting Jeffery in Chicago this weekend. He really grew up in the trade and is someone who is wrapping his life around his gift/his trade. It would make a great movie.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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I would venture to say that we are so unaccustomed to seeing something fits and hangs correctly without pulling our buckling or obvious defects that we interpret the cleanliness of such a masterstroke as "stiffness".

Please don't echo my lament. I have a copyright on it.


- B

Originally Posted by Despos

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I had the pleasure of meeting Jeffery in Chicago this weekend. He really grew up in the trade and is someone who is wrapping his life around his gift/his trade. It would make a great movie.

Men of the Ripped Cloth?


- B