The Rubinacci Thread.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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This is one reason why Despos is so formidable: he is not only half the weight, but he practices his craft without the benefit of firearms. - B
I don't know. I beleive Mr Despos is quite skilled with the shears.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I'm getting one in the blue, too. DB also. - B
I might get the blue myself next year. SBPL for me.

Originally Posted by George

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I have a wardrobe full of the essentials it's time to experiment now.

i imagine my guess is right that your experimental numbers would still be very conservative...

btw, you patience is admireable.

Originally Posted by RSS

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The reason I continue using bespoke is the ability to get exactly what I want ... cloth, shape, cut, details, etc. I start with an idea in mind ... and in RTW such a search would be akin to looking for a needle in a haystack.

That's how it should be, but quite often it is not.

I can't be the only person in the world who has had high hopes and then things did not turn out the way you had imagined. In part it is your mistake as a client, because the communication with the craftsman is flawed, but is also the fault of the craftsman, because certain things you did discuss and were promised, get conveniently forgotten.

And after several weeks/months you get an item which does not come up to your hopes and expectations and you end up with

Originally Posted by RSS

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.......something that is -- at best -- "kinda" close to what I want ... if that.

And then in your tummy you get that sinking Peggy-Lee-Feeling:


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Originally Posted by fritzl

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i imagine my guess is right that your experimental numbers would still be very conservative...

I can't imagine he's considering a diagonal pinstripe.

But for our friend above (Onyx?) ... it would sure have the WOW factor.

In retrospect ... I'm surprised that I considered a diagonal pinstripe. Ya win some ... ya loose some. But it's just clothing ... not a visible tattoo.

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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That’s how it should be, but quite often it is not.

I can’t be the only person in the world who has had high hopes and then things did not turn out the way you had imagined. In part it is your mistake as a client, because the communication with the craftsman is flawed, but is also the fault of the craftsman, because certain things you did discuss and were promised, get conveniently forgotten.

And after several weeks/months you get an item which does not come up to your hopes and expectations and you end up with

Originally Posted by RSS

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something that is -- at best -- "kinda" close to what I want ... if that.

And then in your tummy you get that sinking Peggy-Lee-Feeling:


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I've had that happen ... and if it's my fault ... it's my fault ... I try again. But if it's something forgotten by the craftsman ... I push back until I get what I want.

Originally Posted by RSS

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I can't imagine he's considering a diagonal pinstripe.

But for our friend above (Onyx?) ... it would sure have the WOW factor.

In retrospect ... I'm surprised that I considered a diagonal pinstripe. Ya win some ... ya loose some. But it's just clothing ... not a visible tattoo.

RSS ,did you try the Richard Anderson's iconic diagonal stripe?

Originally Posted by fritzl

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i imagine my guess is right that your experimental numbers would still be very conservative...

Ha...yeah

Originally Posted by fritzl

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ibtw, you patience is admireable.

Originally Posted by lasbar

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RSS ,did you try the Richard Anderson's iconic diagonal stripe?
Why yes ... I did ... and I'm glad I did. I continue to wear it -- several times a year -- in the right avant garde situation.

I recall Yachtie saying he was surprised that my derriere wasn't served-up on a platter when I posted a photo or two (either here or at AAAC.) Actually I "kinda" thought ****** was served-up.

But fellows ... even if this has become a chat room of sorts ... this is the Rubinacci thread.

Originally Posted by RSS

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I can't imagine he's considering a diagonal pinstripe. But for our friend above (Onyx?) ... it would sure have the WOW factor. In retrospect ... I'm surprised that I considered a diagonal pinstripe. Ya win some ... ya loose some. But it's just clothing ... not a visible tattoo.
Don't be suprised Buster My current tailor has cut a waistcoat with diagonal stripes but not a suit as far as I know. In the early 70's he cut some pretty wacky stuff though.

Originally Posted by RSS

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I can't imagine he's considering a diagonal pinstripe.

But for our friend above (Onyx?) ... it would sure have the WOW factor.

In retrospect ... I'm surprised that I considered a diagonal pinstripe. Ya win some ... ya loose some. But it's just clothing ... not a visible tattoo.

not exactly.

i'm pretty sure about the wow factor... ...but it's not even close to a tramp stamp.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I would like to see Despos do this. Hey that's my style! He kop'd my technique. Actually, first step in fitting a suit is to get it placed properly on the body. A basted try-on without lining clings to the shirt and doesn't drape on its own. You must coax the jacket to sit where it should. - B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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- B
These are two interesting cuts. They share similarities but have opposite proportions. The A&S has such a full chest, it looks like he is wearing a kevlar vest under his jacket. The sleeves are set very skimpy regarding fullness distribution. The sleeve here looks narrow and almost tight across the upper arm. From the center point of the sleeve and upward, it looks very flat, especially compared to how rich the sleeves are at this point on the Liverano jacket. The A&S renders an A line with the widest part of the silhouette at the waist/elbow point. Contrast this with how vertical/perpendicular the line is on the outer edge of the Liverano sleeve. Widest point here is at the shoulder which is more flattering to my eye. The A&S has such a high gorge that makes the shoulder look more sloped. Just way too high for my taste. Draw a line from shoulder point across to the other shoulder point and place the gorge half way up from this line to the top of the shoulder at the neck and it would soften the look of his shoulder slope. Neither jacket transitions well from chest to waist. Both have a tubular aesthetic to the upper body but the difference between these jackets is best compared by the breakline of the lapel and how it relates to the line where the sleeve attaches to the body. My ideal is for these two lines to run parallel like so, //. Comparing these lines of the A&S jacket; the break line is / and the sleeve line is more vertical like I. This creates a narrow upper body and widens the silhouette at the waist/elbow. It blurs the chest to waist division. The Liverano jacket is very different in this and is almost too much in the opposite way. The line of the sleeve where it is sewn to the body / is a small bit wider at the top of the shoulder and a bit too narrow across the chest line at the breast pocket level. At the breast pocket level the chest looks pulled in too much. A fuller/draped chest would define the chest more and be better proportioned to the shoulder and accentuate the chest from the waist. This is relevant if you think the ideal is to have these lines in parallel //, so it may only be a big deal to me. I have never been fond of the convex shoulder line of the Liverano. Gives a rotund look to a man that is not flattering.

Given the 1600+ post count of this thread ... I'd imagine it's been said many times ... but some people just wear clothing to a greater advantage than others ... having been born with a knack for making almost anything look good. And it isn't that they are particularly handsome ... they are, more or less, naturally at ease with themselves as they go about life.

Still, there are details to consider as Despos clearly shows.

Originally Posted by RSS

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Given the 1600+ post count of this thread ... I'd imagine it's been said many times ... but some people just wear clothing to a greater advantage than others ... having been born with a knack for making almost anything look good. And it isn't that they are particularly handsome ... they are, more or less, naturally at ease with themselves as they go about life.

Tailor gives life to the cloth, the man gives life to the suit. There is a certain intangible chemistry when the suit and wearer join that cannot be created artificially. I've known only a few that exhibited this inherently and it did not matter if they wore RTW or custom clothing, there was a complimentary embellishment of one upon the other that cannot be contrived.

Originally Posted by Despos

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Tailor gives life to the cloth, the man gives life to the suit.