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Critique my bespoke navy DB

whiteslashasian

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Originally Posted by dragonxking
hymo - i think it's a great idea that you decided to consult the forum for advice. i look forward to pictures of your second fitting.

+1

It sounds like you took the constructive criticisms here seriously and relayed them to your tailor. Hopefully it works out to your liking!
 

hymo

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Second fitting just now...
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1. Quarter inch more waisting each side 2. Sleeves to be rotated backwards 2. Shoulder slope correction on right side 3. 1/2" less back balance on navy trousers, 3/4" shorter 4. 3/4" shorter flannel trousers
 

landshark

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I am a big fan of a defined shilouette on DB jackets. Especially with smaller sized men, it won't look right otherwise. That being said, I think you should surpress the waist some more. Also on the back of your trousers, your suspenders are uneven with the fishtail. Pants look good suspended.

See if he can take the pleats out of those gray trousers while you are there
laugh.gif
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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The buttoning point on your right side still looks lower than the left side. I think it may be that the front balance is too long, notice how the front edge is far from vertical and the bottoms of the fronts are not horizontal (and the corner of the right front is peeking out from behind the bottom or the left).
 

TheFoo

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I think the gorge and the buttons are both way too high. The length is also a bit short. The sleeves don't look shaped right--they bunch in the back and don't curve elegantly. There appears to be some bagging in the backside of your trousers. Perhaps the back rise is too long.
 

George

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Having a fitting on a street, that's a new one!
 

medtech_expat

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I find the gorge too high and think the buttons need to be lowered as well. It may be the angle of the pic, but the buttons also appear to be misaligned?? Is that S'pore in the background?
 

hymo

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I think the gorge and the buttons are both way too high. The length is also a bit short. The sleeves don't look shaped right--they bunch in the back and don't curve elegantly. There appears to be some bagging in the backside of your trousers. Perhaps the back rise is too long.

The gorge (peal of lapels) will be lower once made up. Really. I think I might add 1/4" of the length at the front and keep the back as is. The flannel trousers had it's back rise reduced, but I have given up getting these things right on trousers which sit on the hips.

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum
The buttoning point on your right side still looks lower than the left side. I think it may be that the front balance is too long, notice how the front edge is far from vertical and the bottoms of the fronts are not horizontal (and the corner of the right front is peeking out from behind the bottom or the left).

The uneven bottom hem is due to only one buttoning point, and not the usual two.

Originally Posted by medtech_expat
I find the gorge too high and think the buttons need to be lowered as well. It may be the angle of the pic, but the buttons also appear to be misaligned?? Is that S'pore in the background?

That's Kuala Lumpur in the background.
 

Despos

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hymo;3511209 said:
1. A 1/2" dart will be taken out at the lapel/gorge area, as is typical for DBs. You don't need this 3. The middle row of buttons will be moved 1" down. In the pics you see, the middle row of buttons are 1/4" ABOVE the waistline (which is a no-no for a DB). Not enough
Originally Posted by hymo
Second fitting just now... 1. Quarter inch more waisting each side 2. Sleeves to be rotated backwards 2. Shoulder slope correction on right side 3. 1/2" less back balance on navy trousers, 3/4" shorter 4. 3/4" shorter flannel trousers
The first fitting was way better than the second. You really mucked up the balance of the jacket. Balance is the biggest issue at present and needs to be corrected first. Straighten shoulder to straighten out front edge. To make the front edge perpendicular to the ground. This will also bring the collar down on the sides of your neck. Jacket sits too high at this point. Trim out the chest. Breast pocket, the chalk outline is too horizontal. Slope the pocket if it is not too late. You have to properly trim the sleeve, not rotate the sleeve. Lower button position. Reduce blades on the back. It looks huge. Waist line is too low, raise it up. Fronts have little to no shape. When the lapels are made, the bottom of the right front will be shorter by cutting the bottom at an angle so it will not show under the left front, so don't worry about it. Your tailor cuts nice pleats but did not cut the trouser to match the way you stand. He needs to cut for a forward hip/ flat seat to get the back clean. Why and how often will you wear a sweater under a DB jacket?
 

HarleyBob

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The fit is great, but I think you should get some real buttons and get rid of all those white lines that have been sewn into the jacket. They are too distracting.
smile.gif
 

Yika

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Originally Posted by HarleyBob
The fit is great, but I think you should get some real buttons and get rid of all those white lines that have been sewn into the jacket. They are too distracting.
smile.gif


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Another New Yorker

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Originally Posted by HarleyBob
The fit is great, but I think you should get some real buttons and get rid of all those white lines that have been sewn into the jacket. They are too distracting.
smile.gif


LOL
 

Doxe

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Despos,

Is a DB harder to cut than a SB? If so, what should I be asking the tailor to ensure he'll do a proper job, i.e., how many DBs should he cut in a year to keep his prowess up, that sort of thing.

Thanks.
 

Despos

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I don't know if a db is harder to cut than a sb but the lines of a db are more evident when cut incorrectly. The aesthetic is different than sb as the button pattern and squared fronts create it's own visual effect and makes the proportions of a db jacket more critical. Good balance of shoulder, chest and skirt with appropriate lapels are required.

It is more about the tailors "eye" than his frequency of cutting.
 

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