The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

Originally Posted by apropos

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Wow, that is a pair of great looking shoes. Congrats!

Thank you. They are ridiculously comfortable. I am uncertain about the heel, though. I am thinking about having it heightened ever so slightly and tapered a bit more. We'll see when the maker wants to see me again, after a short break-in-period.

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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Looks fantastic-you chose . . . wisely.

Originally Posted by cdmoore1855

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Wow!
Who made these and what the prizing?

Originally Posted by cdmoore1855

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How the fawk did I miss these? This is sick.

Originally Posted by raybans

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thanks for the pics...I have a few new ideas for this Friday now.
I may have said this...or something like it...already, but the more I look at that Russia calf split toe the more impressed I am. One of the makers I respected the most when I was coming up used to have a card that said "...ever once in a while we get one damn near perfect." That split toe is damn near perfect from any direction.

Originally Posted by the.chikor

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Looks fantastic-you chose . . . wisely.

Thanks. Wise is what you call it, many others would say my decision was plain boring. However, as a starting point for my bespoke shoe wardrobe, I think I could have done worse.

Amazing looking shoes. I have never had the patience to wait for a bespoke shoe order to arrive but seeing these pictures is forcing me to possibly reconsider.

-LR

Originally Posted by DWFII

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I may have said this...or something like it...already, but the more I look at that Russia calf split toe the more impressed I am. One of the makers I respected the most when I was coming up used to have a card that said "...ever once in a while we get one damn near perfect."

That split toe is damn near perfect from any direction.

Amen to that, my curmudgeonly shoe expert.

I've considered many time the "what if" situation of me having a bespoke pair of the ancient Russian reindeer shoes (I know this is calf) and what type of shoe I would have made. Now I know.

Originally Posted by IndianBoyz

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Wow!
Who made these and what the prizing?

These are all made by G&G, pricing is GBP 2,600 for the Stingray, GBP 2,650 for the Russia Leather and GBP 3,650 for Baby Alligator (not croc as some people think but equally expensive as the best croc)

Originally Posted by DWFII

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I may have said this...or something like it...already, but the more I look at that Russia calf split toe the more impressed I am. One of the makers I respected the most when I was coming up used to have a card that said "...ever once in a while we get one damn near perfect."

That split toe is damn near perfect from any direction.

These RL Norwegians are in my opinion beautifully made and the stiching is extremely well executed, I was wearing them when I went to see a trunk show by Paulo Scafora, nice guy but he had the cheek to run his fingers over them and say they were not as well made as RTW Edward Greens. I was not overly impressed with what he was offering as a handmade bespoke shoe for the same price, you could not tell the difference between his bespoke and RTW. I think its not only the personal last, you need to really up your game in terms of leather quality and finishing to really produce a something worthy of being called true bespoke.

Originally Posted by cdmoore1855

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These RL Norwegians are in my opinion beautifully made and the stiching is extremely well executed, I was wearing them when I went to see a trunk show by Paulo Scafora, nice guy but he had the cheek to run his fingers over them and say they were not as well made as RTW Edward Greens. I was not overly impressed with what he was offering as a handmade bespoke shoe for the same price, you could not tell the difference between his bespoke and RTW. I think its not only the personal last, you need to really up your game in terms of leather quality and finishing to really produce a something worthy of being called true bespoke.
Well, G&G make some fine shoes...all things being equal. I was informed some time ago that they have gone to gemming in some models and I am not a fan. But I have always loved the way they finish the sole and heel. The waist work is really impeccable...especially the clean way in which the heel joints the edge of the sole. There's that "notch" at the breast that not only separates and sets off the heel...and, at the same time, accentuates the waist...but makes it look taller than it really is. The proportions on G&G's are always spot on. And the leather is treated with respect. But the skin stitching on the split toes is some of the best I've ever seen and the stitching on the forepart is exceptional. But more importantly, rest of the stitching is just so in harmony with the forepart...and the overall aesthetic of the shoe...it puts almost every other example of this type of work to shame. Consider the stitching around the facings and topline...it could have been smaller thread and finer (closer) stitches and no one would have questioned it. That would probably have been my first impulse if I had been making this shoe. Such technique would have been the choice of most makers and indicative of refined work. But the choice to use the heavier thread is brilliant. Not too heavy, not as stark as the handwork, but heavier than normal. It takes the shoe to another level.

DWFII

What do you mean by Gemming in some models ?

Originally Posted by cdmoore1855

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DWFII What do you mean by Gemming in some models ?
RTW...and this is hearsay, mind you--don't know for certain. Gemming is a canvas or linen rib which is cemented to an insole (usually of somewhat inferior quality) to which the upper and welt are machine stitched. If only because it is not using the best materials and the best techniques...and, almost as importantly, like materials for this critical connection...as a construction technique it falls significantly short of hand welting. I am relatively sure (hopeful, anyway) that all of G&G bespoke work is hand welted.

Originally Posted by DWFII

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RTW...and this is hearsay, mind you--don't know for certain.

Gemming is a canvas or linen rib which is cemented to an insole (usually of somewhat inferior quality) to which the upper and welt are machine stitched. If only because it is not using the best materials and the best techniques...and, almost as importantly, like materials for this critical connection...as a construction technique it falls significantly short of hand welting.

I am relatively sure (hopeful, anyway) that all of G&G bespoke work is hand welted.


I have no idea if this construction method is normal for non hand welted shoes, G&G's RTW and MTO are not hand welted to my knowledge. If Gemming is normal for machine welted shoes of the GBP 600 price range that they or EG offer then maybe they do. If other makers such as EG don't use Gemming, then I really can not see G&G cutting corners, they really are proud of what they offer and strive to produce the best they can at a given price point. They also have a new line in production which will be closer to bespoke in construction than their current MTO line, featuring more hand finishing on a standard last.