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General Bike Thread (Desiderata, Questions, Pics)

Brian SD

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Under what pretenses? The fact that it's "designer"?
 

DNW

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Originally Posted by Brian SD
Under what pretenses? The fact that it's "designer"?

That bike is all form over function. The riding position looks very awkward to me.
 

Brian SD

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Originally Posted by DNW
That bike is all form over function. The riding position looks very awkward to me.
Ah, okay. Felt alright to me, but I'm a newb when it comes to bicycles and it may be awkward over the long run. Would appreciate some actual advice, considering the situation. The other one that I was fond of is a bit cheaper at 48,000 JPY, from TokyoBike
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DNW

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Originally Posted by Brian SD
Ah, okay. Felt alright to me, but I'm a newb when it comes to bicycles and it may be awkward over the long run. Would appreciate some actual advice, considering the situation.

The other one that I was fond of is a bit cheaper at 48,000 JPY, from TokyoBike

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clsaddle.jpg


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This bike looks pretty good to me. The components are on the lower end, but that's to be expected for bikes at this price range. I'm not sure what the frame material is made from, but the bike overall shouldn't weigh more than 25 lbs. If you have a chance, ride both of them for a few minutes with a messenger bag (or something you'd normally carry with you) and see how each bike feels. Go with one that's more comfortable to you. At the end of the day, that's the most important factor.
 

Brian SD

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Yea, I don't want to start thinking that I need some really high end components. I have enough expensive hobbies in my life. The frame is made of CRMO and is 10.8 kg, so it's right under 25 lbs. as you predicted.

I'll have to check it out in person.
 

DNW

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Originally Posted by Brian SD
Yea, I don't want to start thinking that I need some really high end components. I have enough expensive hobbies in my life. The frame is made of CRMO and is 10.8 kg, so it's right under 25 lbs. as you predicted.

I'll have to check it out in person.


CrMo is steel, which is stronger and heavier than aluminum, but also gives you a more compliant ride.
 

rdawson808

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I'm thinking about this 2009 Trek 7.6FX. They describe it basically a road bike with flat bars. I'd probably put some fatter tires on it. It's a good price on sale.

for about the same price I can get this 2011 (?) 7.5FX (or perhaps for less since Trek is having a sale this weekend).

Or I could go the step up to the current year 7.6FX. I can't figure out if that huge price increase is worth it. The frame is slightly different it appears and it has slightly different components.

This, of course, all assumes that I test ride it and like it.

Any help?
 

otc

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Originally Posted by rdawson808
Or I could go the step up to the current year 7.6FX. I can't figure out if that huge price increase is worth it.

The price increase almost never is...so long as you can find the right size and trim level in last years model.

Those bikes have a funky mix of road and MTB components....I don't really know what to say about the component mix as they all seem comparable.
 

zippyh

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I believe the reason you often see road/mtn component mix on the flat bar road bikes is that front road derailleurs are not compatible with flat bar shifters. Rear derailleurs will work with either.
 

rdawson808

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Originally Posted by Thrift Pirate
i never like it when they mix mtb/road components, Is there a reason you don't want drop bars? It offers way more hand positions, and probably same component groupe.

Never like them. Never use the lower positions. So with a pair of bar ends I can get plenty of hand positions on flat bars.

Thanks for the other comments guys. I didn't think there was much difference in the components, just didn't know for sure.


b
 

uhurit

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Nothing wrong with mixing MTB and road bike components, as long as they work for you and motivate you to ride. Case in point, have an Orbea Aqua road bike converted to flat bars. Why? Because I don't like the look of handlebars and prefer a more upright position.
 

otc

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I didn't mean to say there was something wrong with the mix...just that other than the one that had Deore parts, I had no idea the quality (though definately on the lower end).

I know that a lot of people do it the other way and use mountain rear derailleurs on their CX bikes since you can run a wider cassette (especially important if you are only doing a single ring up front)
 

zippyh

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Originally Posted by rdawson808
Never like them. Never use the lower positions. So with a pair of bar ends I can get plenty of hand positions on flat bars.

Thanks for the other comments guys. I didn't think there was much difference in the components, just didn't know for sure.


b


You really should try a bike with drop bars again. Get something with a more upright touring set up and the drops become quite a bit more useable. Plus the shift action of the STI 105 and above is just so much smoother than any of the flat bar stuff I've experienced (of course it also costs more).
 

rdawson808

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It's light, it's nimble, it's fast. And it's sitting in my garage. (But it only has mounts for one bottle.)

76fx_carrerablue.jpg
 

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