• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Vass vs. Alfred Sargent "Handgrade"

luk-cha

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
4,530
Reaction score
83
Originally Posted by Burton
I know you keep saying they are a poor value, yet you cannot point out a reason they are. Who do you think made G+G's shoes? Their shoes are made using the same processes and the same materials with the same crafts people as G+G and EG. To me, that is the level of their quality --unless you have something different? We are all entitled to our opinions let's just not slosh them around as fact.

well ok you are saying they are the basically the same shoes in terms of the build and skills of the factory workers and materials used, but then why are AS around 50 pounds more expensive, for what are you are saying is basically the same shoe, for me thats where the value is or is not

but anyway lets stop here before we derail the thread any further
 

Fishball

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Messages
1,878
Reaction score
217
Originally Posted by Burton
I know you keep saying they are a poor value, yet you cannot point out a reason they are. Who do you think made G+G's shoes? Their shoes are made using the same processes and the same materials with the same crafts people as G+G and EG. To me, that is the level of their quality --unless you have something different? We are all entitled to our opinions let's just not slosh them around as fact.

I don't think Luk-Cha said they are a poor value.
If we are talking about "value", I don't know why AS is better value than G+G for the extra GBP50 they charged. As you said their shoes were made using the same processes and the same materials with the same crafts people as G+G and EG.
Anyway, I think Vass give me better "value", if not "much better!"
 

Burton

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,695
Reaction score
229
Originally Posted by kolecho
Below the belt.

Well sorry, I was a bit frustrated with comments like this: "to me AS topline are not more that C&J bench grade finsihed upper with a G&G styled sole which for me offer no value in their product." which are not justified.
 

Burton

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,695
Reaction score
229
Originally Posted by Fishball
I don't think Luk-Cha said they are a poor value.
If we are talking about "value", I don't know why AS is better value than G+G for the extra GBP50 they charged. As you said their shoes were made using the same processes and the same materials with the same crafts people as G+G and EG.
Anyway, I think Vass give me better "value", if not "much better!"



Please see the quote above--in my opinion he did say they were a poor value. As to Vass, I did not compare AS to Vass other than to say my personal preference for suits are teh Sargent shoes. I believe the Sargent Handgrades are a better shoe than G+G and EG in terms of finishing. I believe here in the U.S. they are slightly less not slightly more.
 

fox81

Senior Member
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
942
Reaction score
40
i thought the AS handgrades were good value at the introductory price of 450gbp, but at 640gbp they come up against some stiff competition.
 

clintonf

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
904
Reaction score
39
I have deliberately kept out of these conversations for some time, because I don't want to be seen as a "patsy" for any company.

I have developed a close relationship with Alfred Sargent over the years and initially I too was sceptical about what they have to offer. They have helped me overcome my scepticism.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion and most of the opinion here is subjective and that's fine.

However, I do take issue with the idea of "theft" when it comes to the designs. Having some basic understanding of the way the UK Shoe Industry operates, I think that if there was some notion of theft of designs, there would be litigation taking place. As far as I know, this has not been the case.

Therefore, there must be some other reason why these designs can be used without any infringement.

I have been fortunate enough to own shoes by main of the "better" RTW makers, so I based my opinions on my comparison.

However, I do wonder whether some of the comparisons between "brands" are based upon RTW vs Bespoke. I would expect there to be a wealth of difference between a RTW pair and bespoke pair.

Yes the price of the AS Handgrade does elevate it into the price range of some of the "popular" RTW makers. However, I think that it would make for a better critique if people had chance to sample the AS shoes as well as the makers they favour.

I will keep my other opinions to myself. However, some of you will have noticed that I have a few pairs of AS shoes and I will be having more (when finances permits).

Cheers

Clint
 

pabloj

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
1,163
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by fox81
i thought the AS handgrades were good value at the introductory price of 450gbp, but at 640gbp they come up against some stiff competition.
+1
 

cdmoore1855

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
510
Reaction score
9
Originally Posted by clintonf
I have deliberately kept out of these conversations for some time, because I don't want to be seen as a "patsy" for any company.

I have developed a close relationship with Alfred Sargent over the years and initially I too was sceptical about what they have to offer. They have helped me overcome my scepticism.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion and most of the opinion here is subjective and that's fine.

However, I do take issue with the idea of "theft" when it comes to the designs. Having some basic understanding of the way the UK Shoe Industry operates, I think that if there was some notion of theft of designs, there would be litigation taking place. As far as I know, this has not been the case.

Therefore, there must be some other reason why these designs can be used without any infringement.

I have been fortunate enough to own shoes by main of the "better" RTW makers, so I based my opinions on my comparison.

However, I do wonder whether some of the comparisons between "brands" are based upon RTW vs Bespoke. I would expect there to be a wealth of difference between a RTW pair and bespoke pair.

Yes the price of the AS Handgrade does elevate it into the price range of some of the "popular" RTW makers. However, I think that it would make for a better critique if people had chance to sample the AS shoes as well as the makers they favour.

I will keep my other opinions to myself. However, some of you will have noticed that I have a few pairs of AS shoes and I will be having more (when finances permits).

Cheers

Clint


I should not have used the words steal, maybe copied designs would be better. A classic shoe only has so many designs you can put on there so none of these guys are truly inventing wheels.
 

Burton

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,695
Reaction score
229
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855
I should not have used the words steal, maybe copied designs would be better. A classic shoe only has so many designs you can put on there so none of these guys are truly inventing wheels.

Yes a better word, but still I believe the just has not come back with a verdict on who did the copying from whom. I, myself, would err on the side of longevity as the originator of the design. I will tell you that Chay and team are working very hard to have Alfred Sargent differentiate themselves from the other top flight shoemakers with unique approaches to very classic shoes. Like Clinton, I hope to enjoy many more pairs of shoes from Sargent.
 

clintonf

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
904
Reaction score
39
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855
I should not have used the words steal, maybe copied designs would be better. A classic shoe only has so many designs you can put on there so none of these guys are truly inventing wheels.

That's something that I completely agree with. I must say though that I had wondered why it was decided to use some of the designs for AS' new handgrade models when there are so many other designs around.

But what's out there is out there. I have been told that more designs will be produced in the coming months, so perhaps they will be sufficiently different as to get people to concentrate on how they are made as opposed to the other brands that they may resemble.

Cheers

Clint
 

cdmoore1855

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
510
Reaction score
9
Originally Posted by Burton
Yes a better word, but still I believe the just has not come back with a verdict on who did the copying from whom. I, myself, would err on the side of longevity as the originator of the design. I will tell you that Chay and team are working very hard to have Alfred Sargent differentiate themselves from the other top flight shoemakers with unique approaches to very classic shoes. Like Clinton, I hope to enjoy manny more pairs of shoes from Sargent.

They can do what ever they like, but they could have treated their staff with a bit more dignity when times were tough.

As for the designs, just because they have been in existence for a long time does not mean they are not copying some of the newer boys designs and features. Take their MOORE adelaide semi brogue. Its an exact copy of the GG bespoke one that I have. I would not have minded so much had they really named it after me rather than England's 1966 footy captain.
 

upnorth

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,497
Reaction score
16
Originally Posted by cdmoore1855
Take their MOORE adelaide semi brogue. Its an exact copy of the GG bespoke one that I have. I would not have minded so much had they really named it after me rather than England's 1966 footy captain.

laugh.gif
 

clintonf

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
904
Reaction score
39
Originally Posted by Burton
Yes a better word, but still I believe the just has not come back with a verdict on who did the copying from whom. I, myself, would err on the side of longevity as the originator of the design. I will tell you that Chay and team are working very hard to have Alfred Sargent differentiate themselves from the other top flight shoemakers with unique approaches to very classic shoes. Like Clinton, I hope to enjoy manny more pairs of shoes from Sargent.

I don't really want to get into taking sides on this. I do like AS shoes (as you appear to) and I will continue to get them when I can. I also get a little frustrated when people draw comparisons about copying or who trained who. However, I feel that at the end of the day, the shoes will do the talking.

It's just a shame that the shoes are not readily available to view (yet) and/or that people who pride themselves on owning and wearing fine shoes appear to be reluctant to invest in a pair (if only to do a genuine comparison).

It's cool to have a favourite (and again, I can only really talk from a RTW/MTM perspective - I've never had a bespoke pair of shoes) but like anything, one will tend to have a bias towards something they are happy with. It's just a little disappointing when people write shoes off without researching them.

I'll go back to hiding in the shadows!!! Enjoy your shoes.

Clint
 

Burton

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,695
Reaction score
229
Originally Posted by clintonf
I don't really want to get into taking sides on this. I do like AS shoes (as you appear to) and I will continue to get them when I can. I also get a little frustrated when people draw comparisons about copying or who trained who. However, I feel that at the end of the day, the shoes will do the talking.

It's just a shame that the shoes are not readily available to view (yet) and/or that people who pride themselves on owning and wearing fine shoes appear to be reluctant to invest in a pair (if only to do a genuine comparison).

It's cool to have a favourite (and again, I can only really talk from a RTW/MTM perspective - I've never had a bespoke pair of shoes) but like anything, one will tend to have a bias towards something they are happy with. It's just a little disappointing when people write shoes off without researching them.

I'll go back to hiding in the shadows!!! Enjoy your shoes.

Clint



Clint,

I understand you perfectly. I hate the usual forum banter which is completely banal and useless. People make accusations and use rumor and innuendo as their basis for writing shite. I also think the shoes will do the talking in end. Since we both have the AS handgrades, we know they will speak well for themselves. Chay and I are working on some unique things for my next pair--a very special medallion.
smile.gif
 

Son Of Saphir

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
1,559
Reaction score
858
Originally Posted by onix



Don't assume if you never experienced it or heard it from reliable source

Me break golden rule.
Yes it foolish.
When me look at picture of AS leather and know they gemmed,
me assume they would be inferior to Vass,
me should assume to myself and keep it secret.
Sorry.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.4%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.3%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.9%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,451
Messages
10,589,460
Members
224,251
Latest member
Classic Furniture
Top