• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

BeaconHillBoston

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
267
Reaction score
1
Hello,

When buying trousers in a classic, non pleated cut....the pockets should sit flat and not bow out, and there should be a straight line (tapering inwards down to the shoe) starting at the bottom of the buttocks and the pant should not follow the line of the glutes to the hamstring, correct?

I have a very athletic build (large chest and quads -- 31 1/2 inch waist), so rtw is always a challenge.

The fill in tailor at Brooks insisted that I go with a 34 waist (even though I raised the point that the pockets were sort of bowing without my cell or my walet in them). I asked for a 35 and those sat straight with my walet and cell in the pockets. They felt good and showed a stright line under the seat.

Logic tells me I go with the 35/32 and have them take in the seat and the waist, but I'm new at this.

Was this tailor giving me bad advice? Their house guy was on vacation.
 

dah328

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2003
Messages
4,581
Reaction score
114
Originally Posted by streetminimal
GQ says that men who have 'athletic' or wide torsos shouldn't wear a pocket square because it brings more attention to the chest 'than needed'.

http://www.gq.com/how-to/fashion/200...eshow#slide=14

Does the majority agree with this? I have a rather wide torso/chest but not as wide as Liddell's in the link but I'm not sure if I should obey the rule or go against it.

GQ has long since ceased to be an authority on men's style. Wear a pocket square.
 

BeaconHillBoston

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
267
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by BeaconHillBoston
Hello,

When buying trousers in a classic, non pleated cut....the pockets should sit flat and not bow out, and there should be a straight line (tapering inwards down to the shoe) starting at the bottom of the buttocks and the pant should not follow the line of the glutes to the hamstring, correct?

I have a very athletic build (large chest and quads -- 31 1/2 inch waist), so rtw is always a challenge.

The fill in tailor at Brooks insisted that I go with a 34 waist (even though I raised the point that the pockets were sort of bowing without my cell or my walet in them). I asked for a 35 and those sat straight with my walet and cell in the pockets. They felt good and showed a stright line under the seat.

Logic tells me I go with the 35/32 and have them take in the seat and the waist, but I'm new at this.

Was this tailor giving me bad advice? Their house guy was on vacation.


Can someone help me out?
 

Korki Bucheck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
92
Reaction score
0
A tailor that knows what he/she is talking about is a rare thing indeed. If the 35 looks better, best to get the 35 and take it to a reputable tailor (which is to say, not the second-string guy at Brooks).
 

BeaconHillBoston

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
267
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by Korki Bucheck
A tailor that knows what he/she is talking about is a rare thing indeed. If the 35 looks better, best to get the 35 and take it to a reputable tailor (which is to say, not the second-string guy at Brooks).

Thank you.

I know that was somewhat of a silly question, but I still second guess myself since I am so new at the "proper" way to do things.

Am I correct in my definition of the proper way to wear a trouser?

I ask this because I know a lot of Italian cuts are much more fitted.
 

Peak and Pine

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
359
Reaction score
329
Beacon Hill, what am I missing: you have a 31 1/2" waist and you're considering 35" trousers? You have Oprah thighs?
 

poissa

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
564
Reaction score
4
I was at Nordstrom's yesterday picking up a few shirts/ shoes, their semi-annual sales are super
tongue.gif
. So over the course of the year, I've got a staple set of business casual shirts that I'm happy about. Now, it would be nice to have slacks that aren't khakis. What are good brands that are slim fit not costume/fashion forward. For example, Boss had pants for like $100 on sale at Nordstrom's, I'm trying to get quality and not pay a name for a label. Any suggestions? Price range < $100 ideally.
 

Korki Bucheck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
92
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Peak and Pine
Beacon Hill, what am I missing: you have a 31 1/2" waist and you're considering 35" trousers? You have Oprah thighs?

As it turns out a lot of younger men these days are wearing their trousers a little lower. While Mr. Beacon Hill might measure 31 1/2 inches around the middle, I highly doubt that this is where he is wearing his trousers.
 

Korki Bucheck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
92
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by poissa
I was at Nordstrom's yesterday picking up a few shirts/ shoes, their semi-annual sales are super
tongue.gif
. So over the course of the year, I've got a staple set of business casual shirts that I'm happy about. Now, it would be nice to have slacks that aren't khakis. What are good brands that are slim fit not costume/fashion forward. For example, Boss had pants for like $100 on sale at Nordstrom's, I'm trying to get quality and not pay a name for a label. Any suggestions? Price range < $100 ideally.


I have a couple of pairs of Boss pants which are surprisingly well-made. (Much, much better than their suits). You can find Mabitex trousers pretty easily in the Buy & Sell section of this forum, which are good quality, clasically styled, and well under $100. You might start by picking up a pair (or 2? The economy is recovering after all) of grey wool ones.
 

BeaconHillBoston

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
267
Reaction score
1
Originally Posted by Peak and Pine
Beacon Hill, what am I missing: you have a 31 1/2" waist and you're considering 35" trousers? You have Oprah thighs?

Ha-ha! I do not. I just measured my waist at 32 inches. I had dinner not to long ago, so I might be a bit bloated.

I do not have opera thighs, I do have pretty muscular thighs/glutes from years of athletics, weight training and football in college -- etc.

For some reason the pockets bowed out on the 34's I put on today at Brooks. Madison trousers. Obviously the waist was a few inches to large.

Any ideas?
 

Peak and Pine

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
359
Reaction score
329
Originally Posted by Korki Bucheck
While Mr. Beacon Hill might measure 31 1/2 inches around the middle, I highly doubt that this is where he is wearing his trousers.

But he might be inclined to wear them there if he had one of those 'dancing martini' belts like you've got.
 

Nicola

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
2,951
Reaction score
50
Originally Posted by BeaconHillBoston

I have a very athletic build (large chest and quads -- 31 1/2 inch waist), so rtw is always a challenge.
.


You might want to try some of the Italian brands. They are sized off your hip area and not the waist. Find a size that fits you well in the hips and have the waist taken in.
 

Nicola

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
2,951
Reaction score
50
Originally Posted by Deuce
Found an Ermenegildo Zenga suit marked down from 1100 to 560 at an off saks 5th ave, its medium gray, fits well, pull the trigger? Is this a no brainer?

Would you buy it if it didn't have a label? Ignore the label. If you like it buy it.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 91 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 37.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 25 10.3%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 40 16.5%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.7%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,841
Messages
10,592,148
Members
224,321
Latest member
Skillfusian
Top