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A&S

Grammaton Cleric

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Originally Posted by onix
Why?

For both the coats, I think its cut to be fairly loose (this isn't A&S drape), but still has that pronouned waist suppression that most SR firms offer. This looseness results in making the wearer look heavier than he is, while the waist suppression results in an exaggerated skirt on the bottom half of the coat.

I don't think it to be an attractive cut.
 

TheTukker

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Originally Posted by whnay.
Unless you are in zee clothing bizness. Then its hawt.

lol8[1].gif
lol8[1].gif


Originally Posted by NOBD
Wow. Serious business, clothing stuff.

Like the new avatar! But please make sure to change it back on Sunday though..
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric
For both the coats, I think its cut to be fairly loose (this isn't A&S drape), but still has that pronouned waist suppression that most SR firms offer. This looseness results in making the wearer look heavier than he is, while the waist suppression results in an exaggerated skirt on the bottom half of the coat.
Err, what? I don't see any looseness. The chest is slightly built-up, that's the idea, to make it look like the wearer has a larger chest; if that's what you mean by 'making the wearer look heavier than he is' then that's intentional and I don't see how that's a bad thing. It certainly doesn't make the wearer look fat or overweight, in-fact that suppression does the opposite. A large chest and small waist is a desirable, masculine look (within reason, of course). As for the skirt, it has been exaggerated on purpose as a style choice, this isn't to my taste either but it's something that was done on purpose and isn't the reason I posted the images, nor is it caused by careless over-suppression: "Described as the masculine version of the trapeze line (or the flared line), the main style points are: jackets and coats featuring skirts which flare prominently at the back, waisted effects and the positioning of buttons that never extend below the waist thus stressing the flared line, which is "echoed" in the outward curve of the cuffs and trouser bottoms - the latter resembling modified bell-bottoms." And I think its absolutely absurd to criticise a suit with a shapely chest as being 'loose' because it builds up the chest by methods other than "A&S drape"
facepalm.gif
 

NOBD

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Originally Posted by Lonneker
Like the new avatar! But please make sure to change it back on Sunday though..

Thanks, but this one will make us world champions.

\\off-topic

Carry on.
 

gdl203

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Waist suppression is adequate.
 

George

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I don't think the problem is with drape cut per se. It's with the idea that it's the best style of tailoring or that it's the most difficult to execute.

It the mythologising, pedestal raising and dogmatic approach to discussion about what is in effect just another flavour of tailoring that has given rise to the anti-drapists.

The drape cut can look good on some figures, but on others it can be an un-mitigated disaster.
 

Manton

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All of which is, of course, a reference to Chapter 13 of my book, which one has to be pretty daft not to see that the over-the-top praise is substantially in jest. Either daft or just determined to misinterpret because one hates the author already.

I note that some of the claims I make had already been made by Flusser and Boyer and others years before me, yet the drape h8ers never denounce them for it. Just me.

I have never discussed drape in the same semi-ironic terms on the forum. I try to be more earnest. If you want to talk about dogmatic, let's go and dredge up some of Sator's posts.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by George
I don't think the problem is with drape cut per se. It's with the idea that it's the best style of tailoring or that it's the most difficult to execute.
Who's
saying this??? Without trying very hard, you can name five or six name brand Styleforum posters who like drape in their suits. Which one has ever said drape is "the best style of tailoring" or "the most difficult to execute?" You're putting up straw men. EDIT: I've read Manton's book. I'm not sure how anybody can take it literally. Even if they were to, the author himself has clarified over and over again that he was being satirical.
 

George

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Who's saying this??? Without trying very hard, you can name five or six name brand Styleforum posters who like drape in their suits. Which one has ever said drape is "the best style of tailoring" or "the most difficult to execute?" You're putting up straw men. EDIT: I've read Manton's book. I'm not sure how anybody can take it literally.
It's implied in the constant intellectualising and discussion of it on here and on L.L. More so L.L
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by George
It's implied in the constant intellectualising and discussion of it on here and on L.L. More so L.L

rolleyes.gif
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by George
It's implied in the constant intellectualising and discussion of it on here and on L.L. More so L.L

I think you are reading way too much into things. I defy you to find one reputable poster who would say, "Yes, drape is the best tailoring style," upon being asked.
 

George

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Originally Posted by Manton
All of which is, of course, a reference to Chapter 13 of my book, which one has to be pretty daft not to see that the over-the-top praise is substantially in jest. Either daft or just determined to misinterpret because one hates the author already. I note that some of the claims I make had already been made by Flusser and Boyer and others years before me, yet the drape h8ers never denounce them for it. Just me. I have never discussed drape in the same semi-ironic terms on the forum. I try to be more earnest. If you want to talk about dogmatic, let's go and dredge up some of Sator's posts.
Don't be so hasty. ...and I don't hate you, I don't know you. You have strong views which I sometimes disagree with. I think I've made it clear before that I don't take the clothing fora very seriously. Nor should you.
 

George

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I think you are reading way too much into things. I defy you to find one reputable poster who would say, "Yes, drape is the best tailoring style," upon being asked.
As said above, it's implied.
 

gdl203

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Even if not explicit, let's be honest and admit that this board has a strong bias towards drape, natural shoulders and napolitan tailoring. There are dissidents, but the center of gravity definitely is there.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I think you are reading way too much into things. I defy you to find one reputable poster who would say, "Yes, drape is the best tailoring style," upon being asked.

What the hell, I'll say it.

Or at least I will say this. I like it best. That's not to say that I can't appreciate good examples of other styles. I will also admit that some (not too many) men don't look their best in it. But some substantial portion of the time (75%? more?) if I could see the same man in a drape coat and a lean, structured, straight-shouldered coat side-by-side, I would prefer the draped coat.
 

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