A&S

Bull · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by George

Easy Tiger...

Let's have a look at this M&M

Mmm, I like the breast pocket, nice bit of flair there. It actually reminds me a little of that Cifonelli to be honest.

The hip pockets are blah....!

These pockets are even lower than Vox's. Odd. I far prefer Sciamat's placement (leaving 2 to 3 inches from the bottom of the pocket to the bottom hem), but that's just me. Note also their M&M-esque curved breast pocket. Sciamat, folks. They get a lot of **** heaped on them here, but it's gorgeous stuff:

George · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

FTFY.
I have no idea as to who you are referring to here.

TheFoo · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by George

I have no idea as to who you are referring to here.

It's probably better that way. Anyway, I'm with you on the pattern-matching issue. It's far less important than shape and fit.

Despos · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by ramuman

Why is it that the collar pattern is very often not centered with respect to the lapel patterns? I see this time and time again on many jackets, even from the well respected tailors. This seems like a trivial task.

The collar is first matched to line up with the cloth pattern at the center back. Where it lines up with the lapel is random. On this jacket, the plaid of the top collar should/could finish an equal distance from the collar edge to appear symmetrical.

itsstillmatt · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by mmkn

Low blow MFF. Please show some respect for the professionals. Either that or use an emoticon.

- M
Yeah, he sells socks and fugly ties as well.

TheFoo · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by Despos

The collar is first matched to line up with the cloth pattern at the center back. Where it lines up with the lapel is random. On this jacket, the plaid of the top collar should/could finish an equal distance from the collar edge to appear symmetrical.
Is it possible for someone's anatomy to be so irregular that such symmetry can't be achieved?

Despos · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by Bull

These pockets are even lower than Vox's. Odd. I far prefer Sciamat's placement (leaving 2 to 3 inches from the bottom of the pocket to the bottom hem), but that's just me. Note also their M&M-esque curved breast pocket. Sciamat, folks. They get a lot of **** heaped on them here, but it's gorgeous stuff:

You can clearly see how the patch pocket mirrors the shape if the front quarter here.

mmkn · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I think the respect shown is commensurate.

This would only be true if said party were an attorney, or you one of the most passionate and experienced shirtmakers in the world. I write only as he has made shirts for me.

- M

itsstillmatt · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by mmkn

This would only be true if said party were an attorney, or you one of the most passionate and experienced shirtmakers in the world. I write only as he has made shirts for me.

- M
He is also a pompous, belligerent ass and a liar, so...

Despos · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Is it possible for someone's anatomy to be so irregular that such symmetry can't be achieved?

I suppose so. You work the top collar (apply more or less fullness) when you baste the top collar to achieve this symmetry.

TheFoo · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by mmkn

This would only be true if said party were an attorney, or you one of the most passionate and experienced shirtmakers in the world. I write only as he has made shirts for me.
I didn't say I'm commensurate. I have heard only positive things about his shirts, but that doesn't make him a professional worthy of my respect. Hence, the respect shown (very little to none) is commensurate.

Sanguis Mortuum · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by Despos

The vertical stripes of the lapels are way off. The left lapel is 1/4" from the edge at top and the left is at least 3/4" from the top edge of the lapel
It looks like they're both a similar distance from the edge near the bottom, but the lapel on the right-hand side is properly cut with the line parallel to the edge and the one on the left-hand side has been cut at an odd angle so it's not parallel and gets closer at the top.

Bull · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by Despos

You can clearly see how the patch pocket mirrors the shape if the front quarter here.

What's your thought on Sciamat, generally? More importantly, what is their reputation as far as construction goes? Good/great/so-so/not yet a known quantity in the world of tailoring?

George · Jul 7, 2010

Originally Posted by Despos

The collar is first matched to line up with the cloth pattern at the center back. Where it lines up with the lapel is random. On this jacket, the plaid of the top collar should/could finish an equal distance from the collar edge to appear symmetrical.

Bull · Jul 7, 2010

Sciamat double curved breast pocket...gorgeous...

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