Isaia getting fuller?

For all Isaia experts, are the cuts of the suits getting fuller?

I tried on two Base S suits today, which usually require the waist to be let out and pants hemmed as the only alterations; today, however, everything was completely off. The shoulders were at least an inch too big, the chest had to measure to at least 45" and the supposedly 32" pants were big for my size 34" waist. I checked the internal tag, and sure enough it was still a Base S 50L Drop 8.

So are their cuts getting fuller to adapt to the American marketplace or are there some major quality control issues going on?

I always thought Isaia was cut a bit fuller than the really slim-fitting Italian brands, but that does sound a bit extreme.

I still find that i have to take the waist in on the Base S and shorten sleeves. Everything like shoulders, chest and sleeves is still fairly slim. Admittedly, I haven't tried anything made this year.

im not really a fan of isaia cuts. i was all part of the bandwagon a year ago when i got into the foray, and listened to all the hoopla here about isaia Fits. but not anymore. some are downright boxy.
love and will stick to my ralph lauren and borrelli cuts.

Stupid question: did you lose weight?

Originally Posted by gdl203

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Stupid question: did you lose weight?
+1 - that's exactly what I thought.

i haven't detected any particular increase.

i will say though that i detect, on an ongoing basis, some variability -- typically of the order of 1/4 to 1/2 an inch -- in waist, and some variability in sleeve length and shoulder padding as well.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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Stupid question: did you lose weight?

Nope - I have been between 180-185 for the past 5 years. Even if so, it would have to be an enormous weight loss to gain such room in the chest; I carry a majority of my weight in the midsection, so I typically can do MAX drop 7, and often have to let those out as well since my legs are so thin.

It was the weirdest thing. I've tried on the Gregory before and had to move to a 52, which was big in weird places so I decided it was a cut I'd never look for. I wasn't actively shopping for a suit today, rather I was looking for a new pair of sunglasses and since the weather was absolutely perfect, decided to walk around for a while and pop into some stores to look around.

Since Isaia became overly stocked at Neimans, I've found a drop in quality and consistency across the board.

My experience with Isaia and fit varies greatly by the models that the stores order. Some chains select a fuller cut while others are trim.

I haven't seen anything from the S/S 2010 line, but didn't notice that big of a change in the more recent (red tag) models except for the fact that the jacket lengths seem to be getting a bit shorter.

FWIW, I have noted in a previous post that I have a fair mix of Isaia in the rotation in different models (S, V, Stuart, Gregory, etc.) and have always been baffled at the proportional differences within the same model line. This is particularly noticeable on length - I don't think I have any two jackets in the same size in identical cuts that have the same BOC measurement.

To a lesser degree, I have also seen this on shoulder width and padding in the Base S jackets (suits & SCs).

While I don't think they are the slimmest rigs out there, I always have to go up a full size to get the shoulders right and then add some waist suppression.

Originally Posted by Spark

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FWIW, I have noted in a previous post that I have a fair mix of Isaia in the rotation in different models (S, V, Stuart, Gregory, etc.) and have always been baffled at the proportional differences within the same model line. This is particularly noticeable on length - I don't think I have any two jackets in the same size in identical cuts that have the same BOC measurement.

interesting.

i wear a base S regular (can't fit into a base V) and every base S i own (ahem, more than a few, and more than any reasonable person should require) is a solid and consistent 32" from base of collar to bottom of jacket...

i do see some variability in the other areas i mentioned earlier.

If Base S is too roomy for you, try a slimmer Base such as Gregory.

One thing I know is their jeans and separate trousers are getting slimmer each year - at least here in Europe.

Originally Posted by Spark

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I haven't seen anything from the S/S 2010 line, but didn't notice that big of a change in the more recent (red tag) models except for the fact that the jacket lengths seem to be getting a bit shorter.

FWIW, I have noted in a previous post that I have a fair mix of Isaia in the rotation in different models (S, V, Stuart, Gregory, etc.) and have always been baffled at the proportional differences within the same model line. This is particularly noticeable on length - I don't think I have any two jackets in the same size in identical cuts that have the same BOC measurement.

To a lesser degree, I have also seen this on shoulder width and padding in the Base S jackets (suits & SCs).

While I don't think they are the slimmest rigs out there, I always have to go up a full size to get the shoulders right and then add some waist suppression.

In the past two seasons the Base 2 at the local vendors, Saks and Nieman Marcus, the jackets are
uniformly shorter, and the Neapolitan or natural shoulder has been changed to a a squarer, more
padded version. On this basis I am no longer considering Isaia.

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

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im not really a fan of isaia cuts. i was all part of the bandwagon a year ago when i got into the foray, and listened to all the hoopla here about isaia Fits. but not anymore. some are downright boxy.
love and will stick to my ralph lauren and borrelli cuts.

rofl next year youll be all up on some other labels nuts, talking about how qualitative and decadent it is compared to rlpl, borrelli