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Let's talk about "pull".

amplifiedheat

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Originally Posted by Martin Stall
Pull equals spalla camicia.

Yes, I'm looking for a fight
smile.gif


Much as I like Neapolitan-baiting, it's my understanding that the shirt-shoulder is achieved with extra fullness in the sleevehead. It's not pulling at all, but puckering/fluting/drape.
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by Wes Bourne
I don't think we've seen a DB from you yet. Will you post it on your blog?
No pull, no stiff, no boxy (no drape)
4715349185_51404a99ae.jpg
 

Wes Bourne

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Originally Posted by jefferyd
No pull, no stiff, no boxy (no drape)

4715349185_51404a99ae.jpg


Superseriousbusiness.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by jefferyd
I miss the drape wars.

Check your left ear. I am fairly certain that you were caught and then tagged.


- B
 

Martin Stall

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Originally Posted by amplifiedheat
Much as I like Neapolitan-baiting, it's my understanding that the shirt-shoulder is achieved with extra fullness in the sleevehead. It's not pulling at all, but puckering/fluting/drape.
Yes, I know, but thank you just the same. A tailor friend in Holland once told me: There's nothing wrong with Italian sleeveheads, it's just crappy tailoring. And since pull is a sign of a bad fit, they are equal in their not being in accordance with the laws of the cosmos. What's next, gaping lapels? If you get enough momentum behind an opinion, you can make everything into a fashion.
 

tailorgod

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The reason why I don't like a waterfall sleeve on a business suit is the same why I don't like a drape cut on it: It gives the appearance of (what's the term again, ah yes) "relaxed fit"!
And that clearly belongs into the realms of leisure wear.

Imagine yourself in a board meeting. The numbers of your department aren't that great.

Do you want to sit there in one of those soft sloppy wide cut shoulder and chest coats with a waterfall sleeve whispering:

"Whatever, dude!"

Hell, no!

You want to sit there in one of those clean as a whistle coats with straight shoulders, proper sleeve and firm chest that's shouting:

"Bring it on, motherf*ckers! You got nothing on me! Because I am the best"!



boxing[1].gif
fight[1].gif
smack.gif
nest.gif
 

tailorgod

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In case that wasn't enough:

Pull:

as11.jpg



Pull and (whatever you call those) sleeves:

sciamateventsluis10.jpg
 

GQgeek

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Originally Posted by tailorgod
In case that wasn't enough:

Pull:

as11.jpg



Pull and (whatever you call those) sleeves:

sciamateventsluis10.jpg


those sleeves look marsupialed. They're not spalla.
 

George

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I'm really enjoying the way this thread is heading.
 

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