• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Help with OneSuit fabric: W W Chan

KObalto

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Messages
4,213
Reaction score
84
I am at best an aspiring medium-timer in the sartorial world and will most likely never be a patron of Savile Row or Neapolitan tailors, but it occurred to me that I could probably spring for a Chan suit when he comes through DC this summer. It wouldn't actually be a OneSuit as I have quite a few others, but it would be my go-to Sunday-go-to-meetin' suit so I thought I'd get something conservative business dress in navy. Any thoughts on which cloth would be most versatile, keeping in mind I lve in the Mid-Atlantic region where the weather goes from 20 degrees F to 95 and muggy?
This is, of course, in no small part, a pathetic attempt to appease the GucciMonster:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=181340
 

dragon8

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
4,295
Reaction score
72
I'd go with a lightweight or at most a medium weight fabric only because you can put on a overcoat or a raincoat over it in the winter time.
 

poorsod

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2005
Messages
4,261
Reaction score
970
Originally Posted by yfyf
I'm a big fan of Crispaire, H&S's version of Minnis's Fresco. Looks good in blue too but the slightly coarse texture may not be for everyone.

I'm a convert to fresco. Drapes well and relatively wrinkle resistant. Get it either 1/2 or 1/4 lined so that it breaths well - important in high humidity. Problem is Chan doesn't like to make 1/4 lined.

Note: This is not FNB approved. Wear at your own risk.
devil.gif
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
26,705
Reaction score
9,841
I looked at Crispaire recently: don't like it. It's too smooth and fine. If you're going to go fresco, go fresco.
 

offline

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Chan will also show you another H&S lightweight range just slightly more substantial than crispaire. I've actually chosen it for two suits in a row now, after thinking at the outset I wanted crispaire. I found more appealing colors and patterns in that series, and the fabric felt and looked finer.

Chan will totally make 1/4 lined. Just be firm if that's what you want and they are ultimately happy to do anything.
 

Mr. Pink

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
881
Reaction score
120
Originally Posted by mafoofan
I looked at Crispaire recently: don't like it. It's too smooth and fine. If you're going to go fresco, go fresco.

I've read this several times. I think it may be accurate of some of the fabrics in the book but not all. I just ordered a blazer in a navy wool/mohair blend from the book. I ordered it in part because it is quite a rough texture.
 

taxgenius

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
5,779
Reaction score
1,184
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink
I've read this several times. I think it may be accurate of some of the fabrics in the book but not all. I just ordered a blazer in a navy wool/mohair blend from the book. I ordered it in part because it is quite a rough texture.

Which wool/mohair blend did you order? I am thiking of the same.
 

Mr. Pink

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
881
Reaction score
120
Originally Posted by taxgenius69
Which wool/mohair blend did you order? I am thiking of the same.

It's a 10 oz, dark navy, 30% mohair. I don't know the number, but I'll try to check when I see the my tailor next--probably this Friday.
 

JLibourel

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
8,287
Reaction score
501
How about Harrison's Frontier? Its fairly open-weave, yet heavy enough (11 ounces) so that's not totally tropical and drapes better than a lot of lighter fabrics. It might be a good compromise. My most recent acquistions from Chan have been from Harrison's Frontier--a blue blazer (November tour) and a tan summer suit (March tour). I think it's also one of the least expensive British fabrics Chan handles.
 

Svenn

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2008
Messages
1,614
Reaction score
52
I like this phrase 'OneSuit,' though as a fellow medium/low-timer, I might just note that the distance-tailored WW Chan stuff, from looking at previous threads and pics on the matter, doesn't look that great to me. It seems to have the usual wrinkles, dents, and ruffled messiness of just regular MTM. I've decided to pay the extra grand to go to HK this summer, since the real value of his suits only seems to come out when you can get multiple fittings and alterations all at once, there at the shop.
 

maomao1980

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
1,719
Reaction score
106
what's the name for Dormeuil's version of Fresco? Love that stuff
 

yfyf

Affiliate vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
3,463
Reaction score
45
Originally Posted by maomao1980
what's the name for Dormeuil's version of Fresco? Love that stuff

Tonik?

The composition ratio changes all the time though, they've had several "versions" of it since it was first launched.

They also have a new book using Camdeboo mohair called "Phantom". It was pretty nice but pricey as hell. I'm not that crazy about mohair in general, though.
 

kolecho

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
4,048
Reaction score
866
Crispaire is like a more porous version of typical plain weave. Its greys do not have the same richness as a traditional Fresco that is still made by Minnis. Crispaire's hand, however, is a lot smoother.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,191
Messages
10,579,236
Members
223,902
Latest member
LucyKaven
Top